John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part II

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That carrier may be the thing that holds the ink together and adhered to the panel.

The toner gets baked onto the panel and adheres to the metal. So it just a matter of getting the film dissolved. I'm borrowing the process from the crafty folks. For what they do it doesn't matter so much if the film isn't completely removed.

If the film bakes on okay it can be left on. However there is a dextrose mucilage to allow the decal film to slide off the paper backing. The baking can leave a caramelized brown on the film

Look here.

Waterslide Decals Cured in Your Home Oven - The Artful Crafter

The page suggests turpentine but I think that will remove the toner for sure.
 
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Follow the money. EU and JA DIY/ made hardly a blip on the dying world of tubes. In the late 80's tubes were next door to trash. Look at the prices of NOS tubes. They didn't start going up until the 90's.

A year or two after Nobu's SET 300b showed up in Glass Audio there were SET's all over the audiophile shows. This would be about '94.

OK, thanks for the info. Sounds about right for the U.S. When I arrived in '92, no one was talking tubes much, certainly not SET. It was already a big deal in Europe and Japan.

I asked Dennis Had, who founded Cary Audio, if he had gotten the SET bug from Europe or Japan. He said no, he had seen the 300B at the tube store when he was a kid, and just knew he had to have 'em! :)
 
An extremely mild solution of Sulfuric might work, too. Won't attack the natural oxide on the aluminum (like NaOH, or anything with chlorine), and if mild enough, won't really attack the toner either.

We're talking MILD, though.

I may as well just use a thin paper and iron it on if sulfuric is used. The sulfuric will dissolve the paper. But this can get quite brown as well.
 
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I don't see how turpentine would be the smart choice for pure dextrose--and the way the site describes it suggests there's something else in there (a wax). Yes, an organic solvent would be useful for the wax, but you want something rather polar for the sugar component.

Yes.

The NaOH is no good. It attacks the aluminum even at low concentration. Patches of grey.
 
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Ah, thank you.

Richard,
There have been several instances where I came up with an insight that advanced the field beyond what was known or understood. However, it was my theoretical physicist colleagues who mathematically developed it to apply it to my hardware.
AE is correct, but he seems to downplay the math.

John

Albert E. isnt down playing the math.... he did an awful lot of math himself. What he is saying is that the concept or insight comes first... then the math. Not the other way around.
Just as in your case.

[LLNL has a Computations department.... if you need a lot of math, you can rent one of these guys, to do math programmming etc. for you.]



THx-RNMarsh
 
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What common chemical can dissolve this film without attacking the baked on laser toner.
My question would be - Why do you need the decal sheet? Is it just a way to get the most toner over the panel? If it is the heat that is fusing the toner to the panel, the cornstarch carrier isn't needed as the adhesive, it's just used to hold the toner in place while you transfer it.

I suppose you have tried the special heat transfer papers instead of the decals? If done right, you can get a large amount of toner off the paper and onto the substrate. It's similar to what you are doing, but heat transfer instead of water.

There are now inkjets "printable" aluminum panels that look superb for photographs. There are actually done via a dye sublimation process with heat. I used to print special tiles this way, too. And of course there are heat transfer T-shirt materials.
 
Go single ended with the BF862.

The quietest JFET on the planet - measured against the LSK's and a few others by Dimitri.
I tried once, early on in the development of a tube front-end for my new LCR ckt to cascode the BF862 with both halves of a 6dj8 paralleled. I couldn't get it to bias up with the tube. Had to go back to some NOS 2sk170 I had lying around to get the rest of the circuit done. I'm trying both sections paralleled of 2SK2145-BL now. They work, but a bit weak in gain.
 
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davada,
In the distant past I remember just having a panel done by an anodizer and they would also do etched lettering or some kind of printed letters. a common practice for making one off electronic panels.

The other question is have you asked the maker of the decal if they have a simple solution that we are all missing? I remember the letraset sheets of lettering in all kinds of sizes, has that completely disappeared or do some graphic artist still use those? I think I still have some put away with some old art supplies somewhere. Actually I just Googled letraset and they are still available in sheets just as they always were. A clear coat over the lettering and you'd be set.
 
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