I'm not sure that the issue is not being confused here. I don't think Christophe or I am talking about the output of the amplifier as such as we are talking about the acoustical output after the speaker, a very different thing than just looking at the output at the amplifier. In that case any amplifier should be good enough to drive any type of load without any corrections, far from reality I would say. If you don't consider the FR, impedance of the device you are driving and the acoustic phase response after the speaker who cares then?
If one started with a clean sheet as to amp design and speaker device/cab arrangement, I doubt one would devise the situation the audio world has so far ended up with. More likely to see current driven amps/speaker drivers, with enclosures and drivers that provide proper damping.
I think this is how the journey started in early 20th Century, and somehow the whole thing got badly lost. Maybe we'll find our way back, who knows ?
I think this is how the journey started in early 20th Century, and somehow the whole thing got badly lost. Maybe we'll find our way back, who knows ?
billshurv,
Not what the audiophile masses want but not so sure the common man and woman wouldn't be happy with a powered speaker that could connect to any source and just play great music. Audiophile types just have to play with changing things, they would just get bored if they couldn't play with wire and different whatever. Tube rolling and opamp rolling would be out, all the fun would be gone for those more into the argument than into the listening experience. You could even add a simple opamp based RIAA preamp and connect a turntable and have some way to control level. What a concept.
Not what the audiophile masses want but not so sure the common man and woman wouldn't be happy with a powered speaker that could connect to any source and just play great music. Audiophile types just have to play with changing things, they would just get bored if they couldn't play with wire and different whatever. Tube rolling and opamp rolling would be out, all the fun would be gone for those more into the argument than into the listening experience. You could even add a simple opamp based RIAA preamp and connect a turntable and have some way to control level. What a concept.
Yeah, perhaps "masses" is a bit of an overstatement, based on sales of "high end" products, which I am told are mostly dismal of late.
I just heard a wonderful story about a certain multibillionaire who bought Sonus Faber $60k speakers for his home theater system and put them in the corners of the room. Then another advised he needed a center channel and so he got a third one (bringing the expenditure up to $180k). Still sounded terrible.
EDIT: And not that they are necessarily poor loudspeakers. The key was placement. An expert recommended the man use them in a dedicated listening room, not as home theater things.
I just heard a wonderful story about a certain multibillionaire who bought Sonus Faber $60k speakers for his home theater system and put them in the corners of the room. Then another advised he needed a center channel and so he got a third one (bringing the expenditure up to $180k). Still sounded terrible.
EDIT: And not that they are necessarily poor loudspeakers. The key was placement. An expert recommended the man use them in a dedicated listening room, not as home theater things.
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I will try to answer (my poor English ;-(.
If you measure the thiele and smal parameters of a impedance compensated speaker, Q are changed. That explain why you can use the same RLC for a speaker compensated in free air ... in a bass reflex. Strange, but you will be able to keep-it flat ;-).
And, if you hit the membrane with your finger, you will listen a BIG change in resonance. Once connected to a low Z amp, the damping change is less obvious, of course, because the electrical damping. But still exists. That for the enclosure, and I believe it is not a bad thing to have an enclosure less dependent of the source impedance, anyway.
Amp side, the first thing is the current flow from the UPS will be constant whatever the frequency for a given voltage level. Asking less from the feedback loop. And you can measure the difference at the entry of the VAS. Specially with transients like kick drums. Yes, you can see-it.
I don't think it is related to 'isolation' but feedback signals. And, yes, the difference will be affected more or less by your OPS configuration. By example, laterals FETs can have less conductance than Bipolars. More internal resistance. So they rely more on the feedback to keep output at a low Z.
Anyway, because it will give you better transients, more damping, (the feeling your bass driver is 'faster' with less 'boom'), better separation between kick drum and bass, by example, why not using-it ?
As far as I know, there is nothing here against any theory or good practice to try to have a speaker with a flat impedance curve ?
In a way, it is like trying various brands of lytic caps, to find the best sounding one at the output of your power supply ? And, often the one you will find the best is not necessarily the best one, reading their data sheet.
Oh, by the way, and about current driven, if your speaker has a flat impedance curve, still a problem ?
Something like this?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
se
SE,
Nice looking. Is it real or a rendering? Much cleaner than the ideas we talked about.
Jacco,
I'm working on one, it will be very cost effective and be a true audiophile quality product. Not a mega dollar cost, I have seen some and I agree the costs are just to high for any but the audiophile market.
Nice looking. Is it real or a rendering? Much cleaner than the ideas we talked about.
Jacco,
I'm working on one, it will be very cost effective and be a true audiophile quality product. Not a mega dollar cost, I have seen some and I agree the costs are just to high for any but the audiophile market.
Render. And other than the grille cloth, it's just a shaded rendering (i.e. not photorealistic). Will also do a version in cherry with a different grille cloth to really nail down the midcentury modern styling.
This is the tabletop version (28" x 9" x 12").
se
yes, for the young people, an Hifi enclosure with no wires (blue-tooth or wifi) should seem an obvious choice. They use this kind of things for their mobile devices ?
For audiophiles, why not let them play with, let says, various amp choices in the active enclosures, CFA, VFA etc... in the spirit of the nice work of ostripper (slewmaster) ?
Christophe,
Ostripper has told me he will do a smd version of his designs for me. I'm patiently waiting for that. Someone could easily take the amplifier module out with the heatsink and do that if they wanted to by just substituting input section but I don't think he would want to make all of those input section in smd designs. It would be on the diy'er to do that if they really weren't happy with what was already included. It isn't the amplifier section I'm hung up on, it is the digital side of things that are the part I just don't know how to implement. I'm leaving that up to someone else who will remain nameless until they want to let that out if they do. They know who they are!
Ostripper has told me he will do a smd version of his designs for me. I'm patiently waiting for that. Someone could easily take the amplifier module out with the heatsink and do that if they wanted to by just substituting input section but I don't think he would want to make all of those input section in smd designs. It would be on the diy'er to do that if they really weren't happy with what was already included. It isn't the amplifier section I'm hung up on, it is the digital side of things that are the part I just don't know how to implement. I'm leaving that up to someone else who will remain nameless until they want to let that out if they do. They know who they are!
Christophe Bluetooth is the easiest at this point. I'm really interest in the WiSA wireless but it is only just starting to catch on and mostly in the high end. It can be added as an external dongle as an upgrade. I never hear anything good about doing audio over WiFi so I haven't been looking at that. Even the Bluetooth has different implementation levels from really cheap to much better receivers. I get update information from one of the companies that writes the code and sell high end Bluetooth in Europe called CRS I think or something like that. I've been thinking of having a simple RCA connector for analog inputs and a USB type connection for digital input. As soon as you have to connect two channels together I get in over my head in how the best way to do the signal splitting with digital. For those reasons I will let someone else design the electronics, it is just to much to learn well in a short amount of time. I would need years more to come up to speed and by then things will change it seems. As long as I understand the underlying tech i think I'll be okay. The whole idea was much simpler when it was just going to be built in amplifiers and xo but I don't think that is enough today.
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