And there's only one, bouncing backward and forward. That's why they all look alike.
Thanks,
Chris
Engineers. I had no room for SPICE jockeys, I needed guys who could actually design, code, prototype, and debug.
I have none, my source was a phone call to someone (who wishes to remain anonymous) who is in the best possible position to know. Me, I use 2% silver solder from Radio Shack.
The MBA texts used to cite the case of how short sighted the railroads were by not understanding they were in the transportation business and so when airplanes came around they failed to adopt.
Of course if they did get into the airline business, it is not just the lower cost of trucking for small to medium loads. (Railroads still have the cost advantage on very large loads.) But look at who they would have competed with in the new fangled airline business. Former combat pilots and other hobby type folks who just wanted to fly, not really make money. Of course they also would have fallen to guys like Juan Trippe who lived and breathed air travel.
I just recollect the 50's, my father was a pilot in WWII we would never have considered railroads or flying for any trip. That was the cliche 2.4 kids and two big cars with fins.
1959 Pontiac Catalina Safari 4 Door Station Wagon For Sale
I was intending to PM this but it bumped.
Dear Stuart,
I am sorry to have to bring this under your attention, because I appreciate your technical comments very much and learn from them, but in my sense you are getting way over board in the last two sentences of post 43325.
The attribution of malevolent motives to other posters is something I might moderate away if I were in that position, especially if it happened for the zillionth time.
Kind regards,
Paul
I'm talking about the tiny "high end" segment in general, not anyone specifically. Much attention to long-solved issues (wires, electronics), near zero attention to important issues (acoustics, mechanics, formats, source material).
Ah, Mr Anon Kneemose... Went to school with him.. along with our friends Mr Peekup Andropov (who now runs a car service), Mr Paul Murky (of murky research), and our friend Marge Innovera, who is now a statistician.***
I use some kester 44 from a really old spool, .032 dia.
I also use staybrite, and 96/4 with R type rosin, from a 100 or 200 pound buy from Kester. Had lots of .125, .064, and .031 dia tin/silver made for us for production work.
Every single time I have a problem with soldering, it always turns out to be either surface cleanliness, wrong flux, or bad flux. No scraping is necessary.
jn
***stolen shamelessly from Car Talk...
Yes, as I mentioned in one or two of my articles, it gives a cosmetically pretty joint.
One point I have to make regarding the state of our DIY "profession".
It is now to the point where it is almost impossible to get parts which are plated or reflowed tin/lead. RHOS is to blame. Also, many of us are now destined to use lead free solder.
It seems that the industry is now of the mindset that the addition of silver stops whiskers, so that's not bad. In the 17 years the stuff I made has been in operation (several hundred thousand solder joints using tin/silver), there have been ZERO failures attributed to whisker formation.
The big hurdle we had 17 years ago was the temperature of the melt. We were stuck using R type paste flux because the application was extremely intolerant of halides. As a result, I had to develop better cleaning, prep, and reflow processes to accommodate tin/silver.
1. Cleanliness is your friend. Brass brush, fiberglass, erasers, scotchbrite, choose your weapon, they all worked.
2. Flux is your friend. There really is no such thing as too much flux. Do not rely on wicking to get the flux where it's needed. Put it there first.
3. Heat can be your worst nightmare. Very small tips set to high temps can easily take the work temp over the flux burn. If you try to solder a larger object with the small tip, you have to turn up the temp even more, never good.
4. High mass lower tip temp is always best. It'll bring the work up fast due to the reservoir of heat, but not overshoot.
5. For tin/silver, I recommend using the tip to melt the solder FIRST...buildup a ball of liquid solder between the tip and the work where you want it to go, and when the work has reached the melt temp, the solder will wick to the work. Keep applying the solder to the tip/work interface. The most important aspect of this is, it does not overheat the work because the molten solder is at the melt temperature, which is 221C for tin/silver. You are heating the work using a 221 C source. This is exactly like melting chocolate by putting one pot inside another filled with water. As heat is applied, the inner pot cannot exceed the 100 C.
Yes, it is not how we were taught, we were told to heat the work. But I developed this method because I had to. It is a method worth learning.
jn
It is now to the point where it is almost impossible to get parts which are plated or reflowed tin/lead. RHOS is to blame. Also, many of us are now destined to use lead free solder.
It seems that the industry is now of the mindset that the addition of silver stops whiskers, so that's not bad. In the 17 years the stuff I made has been in operation (several hundred thousand solder joints using tin/silver), there have been ZERO failures attributed to whisker formation.
The big hurdle we had 17 years ago was the temperature of the melt. We were stuck using R type paste flux because the application was extremely intolerant of halides. As a result, I had to develop better cleaning, prep, and reflow processes to accommodate tin/silver.
1. Cleanliness is your friend. Brass brush, fiberglass, erasers, scotchbrite, choose your weapon, they all worked.
2. Flux is your friend. There really is no such thing as too much flux. Do not rely on wicking to get the flux where it's needed. Put it there first.
3. Heat can be your worst nightmare. Very small tips set to high temps can easily take the work temp over the flux burn. If you try to solder a larger object with the small tip, you have to turn up the temp even more, never good.
4. High mass lower tip temp is always best. It'll bring the work up fast due to the reservoir of heat, but not overshoot.
5. For tin/silver, I recommend using the tip to melt the solder FIRST...buildup a ball of liquid solder between the tip and the work where you want it to go, and when the work has reached the melt temp, the solder will wick to the work. Keep applying the solder to the tip/work interface. The most important aspect of this is, it does not overheat the work because the molten solder is at the melt temperature, which is 221C for tin/silver. You are heating the work using a 221 C source. This is exactly like melting chocolate by putting one pot inside another filled with water. As heat is applied, the inner pot cannot exceed the 100 C.
Yes, it is not how we were taught, we were told to heat the work. But I developed this method because I had to. It is a method worth learning.
jn
That, trichlor, Freon..acetone. whatever works and doesn't destroy the plastics.
For the most part, scotchbrite pads have been very good. But, like steel wool as you mention, you have to make sure the debris is cleaned off. Alcohol would do that.
jn
ps..Dirty jneutron??
Efficiency, no BS, no politically correct BS
In my rare encounters with the “upper” establishment, I hinted to a parliamentarian (he was in a committee dealing with the –ever- education reforming) that engineers as teachers in high schools was a case to be considered, for they were able to point to the obvious. He paused for a while and then he said: So can a man in the street.
(God, he was right. The rest of the participants were all non technicians, non engineers, non men in the street).
George
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