Da5id4Vz , you da man.
I googled under images for 801 and missed it.
Those have got to be one of the 10 best classic speakers of all time.
But man it took a lot of juice to push them.
They were current hogs, but with high current they would come alive.
Before I sold them to a guy on Audiogon, I asked him what amp he was planning to use. The ones I sold were series lll, and he had owned a pair of series ll before.,
so he said - not to worry
"I'm planning to triamp them with Crown Pro amps"
He knew what he was getting into.
Regards
Ken L
I googled under images for 801 and missed it.
Those have got to be one of the 10 best classic speakers of all time.
But man it took a lot of juice to push them.
They were current hogs, but with high current they would come alive.
Before I sold them to a guy on Audiogon, I asked him what amp he was planning to use. The ones I sold were series lll, and he had owned a pair of series ll before.,
so he said - not to worry
"I'm planning to triamp them with Crown Pro amps"
He knew what he was getting into.
Regards
Ken L
Here's an easy experiment - disconnect one of your drivers and cover it over with something that doesn't flex. Re-tune the box to 30Hz (shorter tube than what you need now BTW). The graph tells the story. The green is how you have it now of course. If you really like what you hear, pull the extra drivers out and go and buy some more wood. You know the rest.SkinnyBoy said:Each tower is 60litres.. so each "subwoofer" is effectivly getting 30 litres... tuning frequency is about 38Hz was going to be 36Hz, but it made the port TOOOO long..hehe
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Circlotron said:
Here's an easy experiment - disconnect one of your drivers and cover it over with something that doesn't flex. Re-tune the box to 30Hz (shorter tube than what you need now BTW). The graph tells the story. The green is how you have it now of course. If you really like what you hear, pull the extra drivers out and go and buy some more wood. You know the rest.
no offence.. but that just doesn't add up.....
my graph doesn't look like that... and if I use the same diameter port, it ends up being 86cm long compared to my current 21cm... hmm.. lol
oops... my mistake.. lol possibly winisd's but I'll blame myself...
I like 2 drivers cos it get louder.... still low enough for the music I listen to.... it means I can make an amp and bridge it into 8ohms.. rather than whatever.. lol
what does the efficiency do for 2 drivers in series? I need to know so I can work out a temporary crossover... also.. what should I use for dampening material? I have no money.. lol
I like 2 drivers cos it get louder.... still low enough for the music I listen to.... it means I can make an amp and bridge it into 8ohms.. rather than whatever.. lol
what does the efficiency do for 2 drivers in series? I need to know so I can work out a temporary crossover... also.. what should I use for dampening material? I have no money.. lol
more pictures added...
http://home.iprimus.com.au/jlstanley/Speakers/Speaker_Box_Construction.html
bump... efficiency of woofers in series anyone?
http://home.iprimus.com.au/jlstanley/Speakers/Speaker_Box_Construction.html
bump... efficiency of woofers in series anyone?
added some text, and did some formatting...
http://home.iprimus.com.au/jlstanley/Speakers/Speaker_Box_Construction.html
also... I have rounded a few of the edges on teh boxes... but I don't like the look of it.. its too small... is there anyone here in Adelaide with a LARGE (like 20mm) roundover bit for a router? lol
THANX!!
http://home.iprimus.com.au/jlstanley/Speakers/Speaker_Box_Construction.html
also... I have rounded a few of the edges on teh boxes... but I don't like the look of it.. its too small... is there anyone here in Adelaide with a LARGE (like 20mm) roundover bit for a router? lol
THANX!!
SkinnyBoy said:
Hi Skinny boy, I thought I already answered that question here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=242430#post242430 I know it's not "your" driver but the theory will be the same regardless of what driver you use. Or is it just that you don't trust anything thats been calculated with a piece of M$ software
Or did I miss the point and you actually want to know the efficiency difference between a single driver and two in series as opposed to the efficiency difference between two drivers in parallel, compared to two in series.
As for damping material on no budget you could wait till it gets really hot, and go out and scoop up melting tar off the road and apply it the the inside of your boxes, if you apply it with gravel, the gravel may even help break up standing waves!
<sarcastic grin>Regards,
Tony.
roddyama said:
Skinnyboy,
Are you sure you're not mistaken. You might have made a boo-boob.
LOL (hehe) no boobs here...
wintermute said:
Hi Skinny boy, I thought I already answered that question here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=242430#post242430 I know it's not "your" driver but the theory will be the same regardless of what driver you use. Or is it just that you don't trust anything thats been calculated with a piece of M$ software
Or did I miss the point and you actually want to know the efficiency difference between a single driver and two in series as opposed to the efficiency difference between two drivers in parallel, compared to two in series.
As for damping material on no budget you could wait till it gets really hot, and go out and scoop up melting tar off the road and apply it the the inside of your boxes, if you apply it with gravel, the gravel may even help break up standing waves!
Regards,
Tony.
Yes.... I need to know the actualy difference.. someone said that connecting 2 drivers in series resulted in a 3dB gain.. while connecting them in parallel resulted in a 6dB gain.... Thats all well and good, it would mean that the woofers are like 91dB 1w/1m and the tweeter is 92dB at 2.83 1metre.... so.. how does that compare..
I know the now the tweeters are quite overpowering.... so.. its more than a 1dB difference...So..... do I need the tar based type dampening material? or do I need like fibreglass stuffing?
I have no idea what I am doing.. and I am running out of time 
These speakers sorta need to be finished by tomorrow... 
I better get to work... the Baffels are glued and drying.... BUT I HAVE NO SPEAKER WIRE OR TERMINALS!!!! I guess I could just run the wire out through the port again.... but I don't really have enough wire... how long does PVA glue take to dry? dry enough so I can router the baffel.. lol I'm not even sure if I am going to be able to get the woofers into the holes.. :S :O
I better get to work... the Baffels are glued and drying.... BUT I HAVE NO SPEAKER WIRE OR TERMINALS!!!! I guess I could just run the wire out through the port again.... but I don't really have enough wire... how long does PVA glue take to dry? dry enough so I can router the baffel.. lol I'm not even sure if I am going to be able to get the woofers into the holes.. :S :O
Go for a look in your nearest Spotlight store. They have some bags of polyester or Tontine stuff meant for making cushions out of, but is just the ticket for box damping. I bought a bag the other day for ~$12 and 60% of it easily filled a 100 litre box. I used the rest for two smaller ones. they have smaller amounts (for smaller cushions, no less!) for about $8 and ~$5 so there is one for every budget and every bottom. http://www.spotlight.com.au/SkinnyBoy said:So..... do I need the tar based type dampening material? or do I need like fibreglass stuffing?
P.S. Take your mum and make it look like she is forcing you to be there. It's like a hardware shop for women. (Imagine sound like Sideshow Bob groaning...)
OTOH, you could always go there by yourself and act totally helpless while letting one of those salesgirls spend ages fussing over you helping you decide what you already know you are going to buy.
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