I am waiting for my TAS5611 board to arrive.
I will be initially using it with a 19v 7.5 amp power brick that I use with my TPA3116 boards until I can source something more permanent.
The question I have is how do I remove the volume pot so I can use the board with my Coffee Shop LDR volume control Light Dependant Resistor Single input Kit | eBay.
The LDR volume control works great with my blue/black TPA3116 board and fits neatly in the same casework.
I will be initially using it with a 19v 7.5 amp power brick that I use with my TPA3116 boards until I can source something more permanent.
The question I have is how do I remove the volume pot so I can use the board with my Coffee Shop LDR volume control Light Dependant Resistor Single input Kit | eBay.
The LDR volume control works great with my blue/black TPA3116 board and fits neatly in the same casework.
My TAS5611 board arrived today Assembled TAS5611 digital amplifier board class D (125W + 125W) | eBay.
The board took 2 weeks to arrive from China, it was very well packaged in a box with lots of foam inserts.
Initial impressions are very good. I kept all test conditions the same as my TPA3116 (blue black board) literally just swapped one board for the other.
Obviously sound quality is subjective but here are my findings;
Tonally richer in the midrange than the TPA3116
Vocals have a little more chest than the TPA3116 (which I find to be slightly thin in the vocal area especially female vocals).
The same excellent treble as the TPA3116 but I think the TAS5611 is a bit more natural sounding especially on high cymbals.
Bass depth is similar to the TPA3116 but I think the TAS5611 has better control with less overhang and less bloom.
Soundstage width and depth are on a par with the TPA3116 but I felt the TAS5611 projected slightly further forward into my room.
Micro details were excellent allowing me to hear more vocal inflections than the TPA3116.
One area where the TAS5611 definitely improved over the TPA3116 was congestion during complex passages or when pushed harder, the TAS5611 had better composure.
I tried both boards with 2 power supplies I had to hand; a 19v 7.5amp laptop brick and a 13.5v 3amp linear supply (built for my TA2020) both supplies while well under the 32v recommended performed very well, the 19v brick sounded slightly crisper and punchier,
the 13.5 linear supply had a warmer fuller sound.
I cant wait to hear how the TAS5611 will sound once properly broken, with a better power supply and with the volume pot removed so the signal is not degraded by a cheap pot.
Any recommendations for a good power supply or even 2x12v battery + charger will be very welcome.
The board took 2 weeks to arrive from China, it was very well packaged in a box with lots of foam inserts.
Initial impressions are very good. I kept all test conditions the same as my TPA3116 (blue black board) literally just swapped one board for the other.
Obviously sound quality is subjective but here are my findings;
Tonally richer in the midrange than the TPA3116
Vocals have a little more chest than the TPA3116 (which I find to be slightly thin in the vocal area especially female vocals).
The same excellent treble as the TPA3116 but I think the TAS5611 is a bit more natural sounding especially on high cymbals.
Bass depth is similar to the TPA3116 but I think the TAS5611 has better control with less overhang and less bloom.
Soundstage width and depth are on a par with the TPA3116 but I felt the TAS5611 projected slightly further forward into my room.
Micro details were excellent allowing me to hear more vocal inflections than the TPA3116.
One area where the TAS5611 definitely improved over the TPA3116 was congestion during complex passages or when pushed harder, the TAS5611 had better composure.
I tried both boards with 2 power supplies I had to hand; a 19v 7.5amp laptop brick and a 13.5v 3amp linear supply (built for my TA2020) both supplies while well under the 32v recommended performed very well, the 19v brick sounded slightly crisper and punchier,
the 13.5 linear supply had a warmer fuller sound.
I cant wait to hear how the TAS5611 will sound once properly broken, with a better power supply and with the volume pot removed so the signal is not degraded by a cheap pot.
Any recommendations for a good power supply or even 2x12v battery + charger will be very welcome.
@Trashcanz
I've bought that 2 PBTL board.
Based on the datasheet, if I want to parallel 2 PBTLs to create a stereo amp, I have to connect both synch pin (PIN 16) with 10K resistor and create ground connection with added 1nF capacitor.
You can see my diagram plan here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_U4OLmXFhUjOHRWNmVPVmtVWFU/view?usp=sharing
Is this correct thing to do?
Thanks for your help.
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I update the link.
If you said so, Trashcanz.
I created the diagram based on TPA3118 datasheet.
TPA3118 datasheet clearly shows us how to bridge and parallel the chips.
Thanks tabarddn, Post 27 just contains a dead link for tobao.
Post 30 mentions 2x12v batteries, which I am keen to try but have no experience of.
There does not seem to be a good choice of chargers around, would I need to charge each battery separately or can they be charged at the same time whilst wired in series.
Post 30 mentions 2x12v batteries, which I am keen to try but have no experience of.
There does not seem to be a good choice of chargers around, would I need to charge each battery separately or can they be charged at the same time whilst wired in series.
I only have an old charger for rc car batteries.
12V batteries have the highest voltage it can handle.
So i can only charge one single battery at a time.
But i do that only for 'battery health' from time to time.
I never had an empty battery.
A total of 14Ah is plenty of energy for a class d amp.
There are chargers for ~20$ which can handle two 12V batteries in series.
I would buy one if i had none.
12V batteries have the highest voltage it can handle.
So i can only charge one single battery at a time.
But i do that only for 'battery health' from time to time.
I never had an empty battery.
A total of 14Ah is plenty of energy for a class d amp.
There are chargers for ~20$ which can handle two 12V batteries in series.
I would buy one if i had none.
Another practical factor should be taken into account:
The only practical solution with sla batteries is a single 12v sla for a 3118 and two 12v sla for a 5611.
For high effiency speakers 12v into a 3118 should be enough.
I don't know what TI means with 'unclipped output power'.
So i can just compare the data from the diagrams that state '10% THD'.
for 8Ohm loads:
TPA3118: 13W @ 13V (one battery)
TAS5611: 50W @26V (two batteries)
EDIT: to make the list bit more complete:
TAS5630: 90W @39V (three batteries)
The only practical solution with sla batteries is a single 12v sla for a 3118 and two 12v sla for a 5611.
For high effiency speakers 12v into a 3118 should be enough.
I don't know what TI means with 'unclipped output power'.
So i can just compare the data from the diagrams that state '10% THD'.
for 8Ohm loads:
TPA3118: 13W @ 13V (one battery)
TAS5611: 50W @26V (two batteries)
EDIT: to make the list bit more complete:
TAS5630: 90W @39V (three batteries)
Last edited:
That might be an option indeed.
Yuan Jing Audio - TPA3251D2 High Performance Ultra-HD Class-D Stereo Amplifier Board [175W x 2] - USD $38.00
I'm looking forward to a pricetag on aliexpress.
Yuan Jing Audio - TPA3251D2 High Performance Ultra-HD Class-D Stereo Amplifier Board [175W x 2] - USD $38.00
I'm looking forward to a pricetag on aliexpress.
I have just taken delivery of two very similar looking boards from Aliexpress. They seem to perform OK, but they produce a very annoying high pitched background whistle. As they were to be used as part of an active speaker project, with the boards mounted on/in the speakers, I want to be able to run them with the gain control maxed and control the volume via a preamp - this is just not possible due to the whistle. Anyone had similar experience with these, and know of a fix?
Greetings. I am in a similar situation. I recently purchased a TAS5611 board. Once I received it, I quickly discovered an annoying high pitched noise. I tried bypassing the volume pot with resistors, replacing the output filter coils with brand name equivalents, and using industrial and medical grade power supplies, but to no avail. I have a lot of other class D boards, and none of them have this problem.
If anybody has a solution, I would appreciate it if you shared it, because, other than the obnoxious high pitched noise, I really like the sound that this board produces.
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