How about these...with a couple of Talema 15VA transformers?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3933107488...=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3933107488...=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
that info shown on schematics, I'm sending with every kit
yup, 10VA per channel, 30Vct
for logic 10VA, 24Vct
if no logic, rotary switches for Zen Amount and Zen Source, then 10VA 24Vac
Ah ha, very clever. Not even a chance I could jamb audio signal XLR into the power supply
for Iron Pumpkin, according to list in my previous post, one needs either
3 + 3 + 3 wires or
3 + 3 + 2 wires
for umbilical
so, either so called Aviation 9pin connector set, or RS232 25pin (so called DB25) connector set
set meaning - cable thingie and chassis thingie
in case of RS232, arranging several pins together to have 9(8) groups, for better contact
projected steady current for each PSU/reg is aroundish 100mA, logic circ is roughly 270mA, if no logic measly 50mA for relays
funny display LED is sucking 200mA, fun fact
3 + 3 + 3 wires or
3 + 3 + 2 wires
for umbilical
so, either so called Aviation 9pin connector set, or RS232 25pin (so called DB25) connector set
set meaning - cable thingie and chassis thingie
in case of RS232, arranging several pins together to have 9(8) groups, for better contact
projected steady current for each PSU/reg is aroundish 100mA, logic circ is roughly 270mA, if no logic measly 50mA for relays
funny display LED is sucking 200mA, fun fact
Those are 4 and 5 pole xlr, so no mismatch with audio connectors.
The chassis is made of mdf, covered with very realistic veneer imitation. Front, rear and top are aluminum.
Thanks in no small part to @KevinHeem, I got the beast working today. And it's awesome!
Will I move the Anteks to a separate chassis? I'm not sure. There is a small amount of hum with my ear against a speaker when the preamp is wide open (OK. Yes. Zero gain), but it is slight, certainly not enough to agitate me in any way. We'll see.
This project had me well outside my comfort zone. Zen Mod was an absolute mensch throughout. Despite being a known Internet Personality, ZM answered all my dumb questions and verified my parts choices and never gave me a hard time for being a moron. For these things (and a kick-*** preamp), I am grateful.
The end.
Will I move the Anteks to a separate chassis? I'm not sure. There is a small amount of hum with my ear against a speaker when the preamp is wide open (OK. Yes. Zero gain), but it is slight, certainly not enough to agitate me in any way. We'll see.
This project had me well outside my comfort zone. Zen Mod was an absolute mensch throughout. Despite being a known Internet Personality, ZM answered all my dumb questions and verified my parts choices and never gave me a hard time for being a moron. For these things (and a kick-*** preamp), I am grateful.
The end.
^Hint Hint^ It was actually built by a guy named "Tim" but with a different last name...rhymes with Dawson. Bad joke, sorry @timkrone.
I borrowed that photo from @rhthatcher...he must be a saint.
I borrowed that photo from @rhthatcher...he must be a saint.
If “standup fail” = jacka** then yes, I’m feeling pretty good about myself?if it makes you feel less of a standup fail, I got it and it evoked a smile from me
After a short hiatus I finally picked up the soldering iron again and made some progress.
For M102 / M202 I used IFR510 mosfets which according to the schematic. After installing then I began to wonder why I had some IFR540 mosfets in my parts bin for the IP. I then realized that the BOM for my version of the IP has the IFR540 for M102 / M202. Based on post #154 I assume that I am good if I leave the IFR510 mosfets in those positions.
For M102 / M202 I used IFR510 mosfets which according to the schematic. After installing then I began to wonder why I had some IFR540 mosfets in my parts bin for the IP. I then realized that the BOM for my version of the IP has the IFR540 for M102 / M202. Based on post #154 I assume that I am good if I leave the IFR510 mosfets in those positions.