if you have height of case, and if you mount bottom one and set, then mount top one and set, why not
you have them, use them; if there is hum, toss them in separate case or buy new ones
Regarding the Antek transformers, the 50VA ones are available with a static shield between the primary and secondary referred to as the AS series. The 10VA and 25VA are not available with the shielding.
I have used the AS-0518 in a SE build and two in a dual mono SE build and there is no hum issue whatsoever.
nash
I have used the AS-0518 in a SE build and two in a dual mono SE build and there is no hum issue whatsoever.
nash
If they transformers are in an enclosed metal case, does the shielding of the AS series really provide much benefit?
static shield - "blind" screen winding between primary and secondaries - one end floating, other end connected to safety GND/case - that one decreasing capacitive coupling between primary and sec(s), thus decreasing amount of (HF, whatever) garbage creeping in between; in short - less chance opf mains borne garbage to creep in our preciousssss regs, and also less chance that garbage generated in circuit can creep back to mains, confusing our preciousssssssss hair dryers; leaves fuzzy hair
now, magnetic shielding - always best to minimize need for that, actually having xformer in first place wound with increased No of turns per volt, thus decreasing magnetic flux through core, then applying any/some sort of iron cage around xformer - thicker the better
plenty of hogwash, in the end - proper xformer is proper if not buzzing and not spraying drek around; I'm most happy when Donut is proper Black Box, I don't need to know what's inside and how it's made
just sayin' that - whatever xformer one is using, it's always best if bought as result of informed choice
50VA is overkill, 2pcs twice overkill, and risk
if they're not problematic, I'm happy; but role of mine is always to chime in and yell what I'm seeing as primordial sin
yelling, not preachin' ........... what's not to like ?
now, magnetic shielding - always best to minimize need for that, actually having xformer in first place wound with increased No of turns per volt, thus decreasing magnetic flux through core, then applying any/some sort of iron cage around xformer - thicker the better
plenty of hogwash, in the end - proper xformer is proper if not buzzing and not spraying drek around; I'm most happy when Donut is proper Black Box, I don't need to know what's inside and how it's made
just sayin' that - whatever xformer one is using, it's always best if bought as result of informed choice
50VA is overkill, 2pcs twice overkill, and risk
if they're not problematic, I'm happy; but role of mine is always to chime in and yell what I'm seeing as primordial sin
yelling, not preachin' ........... what's not to like ?
Speaking of which side do they mount on, how about the RCA jacks? They can also be fitted from inside, but they do have conical shape to the outside on the screw holes, to allow those little conical screws. Those would be of no use if fitted from the inside.....I suppose it really doesn't matter, 🤔 but which way is intended?^ Well, then I'm a dunce too... LOL! I just had the opportunity to be a dunce first.
- “Learn from the mistakes of others. You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.” - Eleanor Roosevelt.
Russellc
Looking at finished project pics, I clouding in post #1, that mounting is from inside. Oh well, pan heads it is....to the Ace Hardware store!
Russellc
I know this is really dumb, but I'm kinda stumped on which toggle switch to order. I have the ac inlet, fuse drawer and rca's for the modushop custom chassis in my mouser cart, but I don't know which toggle will fit the front panel, or which rating I should chose. My transformer is an AN-0215.
Now I realize that you bought the whole 'kit', I mean with the chassis done up and everything, but that doesn't force you to accept the toggle switch given for the job. It should have a rating of 3 amps or more just so you don't have to worry about it. I do not know, but it appears that the mounting hole for the switch is about 1/4" You can drill a larger hole with a step bit if needed and it is pretty easy since the front panel is aluminum. Many toggle switches have a set of nuts to adjust for thickness of the front panel.
In my build, I went another direction and chose a pushbutton switch. I think that they look better.
In my build, I went another direction and chose a pushbutton switch. I think that they look better.
Attachments
Got back into my unit to investigate what was causing an issue with volume balance. I guess that it should be no surprise that it was one of the mono pots. Crap. So I changed them both out for a new set and the problem is solved. This is an unusual stacked configuration that works perfectly. Changing pot is more complicated though, and this had better be the last time.
Attachments
You are welcome, of course. The beautiful thing about any art is the ability/choice to make it your own. There is nothing wrong either way though. I just enjoy being able to turn a corner here and there without drawing too much attention to it, yet a person will look at the difference, not quite knowing why they prefer its design.
I am looking forward to building my second Iron Pre in the near future. Actually, there isn't much that will change as far as layout, chassis used. I may delete the use of LEDs though. And I am considering a different volume control arrangement. Glass Audio has these very cool 3 ea. stepped attenuators working in tandem to produce 66 steps of attenuation by way of shunt and ladder configurations. In fact, I may have a board downstairs.