Introducing me and my speakers

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Actually I´m on a date with 4 italian virgins.
They stole my heart from the first sounds they whispered !

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So stunning how midbass is the back of the whole sound. It changes everything, stunning how it seems to change mostly the mids/highs and subs,. Strange but wonderful. :grin:

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:rofl:

I´m to old for virgins and happily married.:)

But the drivers got just a quick treatment. Just 15 minutes free air working with 20Hz. Couldn´t wait to test them in the horns.
The rest will settled the next days with loud music.

Most likely the rearchamber will have to be a little smaller next week, when they loosen some stiffness of the suspension.
But by now they are really stunning.
 
:rofl:

I´m to old for virgins and happily married.:)

But the drivers got just a quick treatment. Just 15 minutes free air working with 20Hz.

Pity ...

Empirical research has confirmed that 15 minutes in Free Air appears to be ideal for breaking in virgins.

Sadly, the neighbors with pitchforks and torches apparent to rather vehemently disagree.

Cheers

Jim

BTW: your horns are a classic example of "Insane beauty in the service of madness..." - nice work
 
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Hi MiWi

First congrat to you for your impressive midbass horns, top notch work. I´m also hooked on a couple of B&C 12PE32 for my midbass horn. Have to save some money first. The perfect driver for that kind of job :)

You took the long, environmental unhealthy road and with excellent result ;)

I took a different route and made a jig with a tractrix curve (I know, no round horns for you:p). Made the mould out of concrete and made a pulp of normal cottenpaper (paper for printers), sawdust, wood glue and some plaster.

Here is some pics of the process and result. This I have only done for the tweeter horn (420-20khz) but the plan is to make a bigger jig for the mid bass horn. This process is inspired by inlowsound.com, very interesting DIY guy.

Regards Sebastian
 

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Hi Sebastian.
Nice horns.
The 12PE32 is worth saving for, you won´t regret it.





I´m currently working on room acoustics a bit.
The room before:

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I want to bring down the reverberation time above 300Hz a little (bass is good, because all walls are built as panel absorbers) and I´ll try to add some more or less hidden acoustic absorbing “objects”
(I intended to turn the whole wall behind the speakers into an absorbing wall, but my wife insisted)

What I did until now:

Captain America: porous absorber behind canvas, stuffing 220cmx105cmx10cm / 2.3m², 5mm gap, >6 kPa ∙ s/m²

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stormtrooper/C3PO: porous absorber behind printed acoustic cloth , stuffing 2x100cmx150cmx6cm / 3.0m², 3cm gap, >16 kPa ∙ s/m²

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left tapped horn: covered with 2cm acoustic foam + carpet underlayer , 1.7m²

sliding curtains/panels: 2x 280gr./m² cloth plus 2cm acoustic foam 4 pieces 150cmx60cmx2.5cm / 3.6m² , 10cm gap

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curtain: 300x600cm / 18m², 280gr./m², gap 15cm (will give me something like 0.3@300Hz/0.4@500Hz/0.6@800Hz and above)

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- 2 Basotect Panels 50x100x10cm, gap 10cm, as “mobile devices” placed behind the midbass horns (only when listening)

Currently in the printing queue:
3 Pictures - Muddy, Sonny, Ella: porous absorber behind printed acoustic cloth , stuffing 85+150+85cmx100cmx6cm / 3.2m², 3cm gap, >16 kPa ∙ s/m²

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This is just a bid photoshop how it´s supposed to look like...

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So when the last 3 Absorbers will be finshed, there will be a little over 30m² panels and curtains. Not much for a room that big, but anything is better than nothing. The effects are already very good.
 
Thank you Doug.


@ Sebastian:
Are you using DSP to tame room modes?

Yes, the DSP is also used to do a little room mode correction. Not much, because of the geometry and the panel absorber walls (drywalls) bass is not a big problem and excessive correction is not needed

What is your front gear?

CD: an old Sony Esprit used as transport only -> S/PDIF to digital in DSP

Analogue: DIY idler-driven turntable with DIY tonearm
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Phono-Preamp: SAC Gamma

DSP (Alto Maxidrive 3.4+)
SPL Volume 8 (8-Channel volumecontrol behind the DSP)

Amping:
Subbass and Midbashorns are driven with TA3020 DIY amps.
Mid/High horns are driven by DIY single ended 2A3 tubeamp
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I gave up 'art' (and just about anything else considered 'normal work') when I found making surfboards ticked all the boxes with a single stroke.

Just wanted to get back and say I could no longer resist and jumped head over heels into the exciting jounrney of learning to shape.

Few weeks ago I´ve been surfing in France again and spent most of the time testing as many different boards as I could to get a clue how different they feel. I intended to first improve my surfing, before starting to shape. But me being to strong/heavy with an explosive popup my thighs leave dings and spidercracks along the stringer with conventionel boards, I decided to start building my own stringerless boards right now. I got nothing to loose and just experience to win.

Ordered a big block of 25lbs/cu EPS foam and jumped right in.

First board will be a kind of big guys / beginner groveler board.
6.8 x 23 x 3.3/8
Shaping ist done, glassing in the next few weeks.

I enjoyed my first experiences su much. It´s big fun to start with a cube of foam and ending up with something looking like a surfboard ! Can´t wait to be back in my shaping bay....

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I made a small timelapse video from the shaping process


https://vimeo.com/133833212

 
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And finally a little ontopic after the surfing stuff ;-)
I finished all the absorbers.

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I did not make a measurement yet, to busy with building bicycle frames and shaping surfboards.
(to many different addictions and not enough spare time)
 
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a small update...

I revised the midbass horns a bit and I´m still enjoying them a lot.

- smooth out the irregularities in the shape
- add a stiffening and dampining frame to the mouth
- stiffening of the throat and make it look a little more appealing
- spackle everything
- sanding, sanding, sanding...
- new paintjob (white inside, flat lightgrey outside)

The frame around the mouth extended the lower cutoff apr. 5Hz.
 

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