I have a pair of AN super 8's in David Dicks 2.8 cu ft boxes I built in front of me. They're run off the TV line out thru a Sonic Impact gen 2 T-amp and I play music using the Sony HD/DVD recorder which feeds via HDMI. I use the EQ on the TV to restrain the top end and favour the bass a bit. The interconnect is interconnect. The cables are cables.
You may be able to better the enclosure a bit, but given the vagaries of room layout, floor coverings etc. I didn't think it worth the effort, and it was truly low-cost, low-effort.
For the price it's magic, and some days it's magic at any price.
I could spend a lot more on a system if I wanted to. I could get a lot more complicated if I wanted to.
My only vague regret, I didn't try the 12 in cast basket types.
w
You may be able to better the enclosure a bit, but given the vagaries of room layout, floor coverings etc. I didn't think it worth the effort, and it was truly low-cost, low-effort.
For the price it's magic, and some days it's magic at any price.
I could spend a lot more on a system if I wanted to. I could get a lot more complicated if I wanted to.
My only vague regret, I didn't try the 12 in cast basket types.
w
Is the $1000 budget, the money you plan on spending before shipping cost's, taxes and duty etc? , or can those be added on?
Anyhow this little amp has been getting some love out there from many who have heard it, see bottom oops..
I've never heard the Glow myself, so I'd be inclined to go with the amp Dave (Planet-10) suggested, more power also...
Couldn't agree more with the single driver approach, and if your handy with wood?, the BVR's as suggested or the Dallas cab would get my vote.. Also for driver, a Fostex 8'' 206 or 207 depending on cab choice etc.. That should give you a very top notch system for the money, and you'd be able to rock out more with the bigger 8'' rather than the smaller 126,127 108 Fostex etc..
I think your best compromise though would be a cab for the Fostex 166-167 and one of Dave and Scotts BVR cabs or Rons A166. You'll retain more of the small driver qualities and get some of the larger driver qualities if that makes any sense? You could always diy a sub later if wanted etc... Dave
http://www.glow-audio.com/getglow.html
Anyhow this little amp has been getting some love out there from many who have heard it, see bottom oops..
I've never heard the Glow myself, so I'd be inclined to go with the amp Dave (Planet-10) suggested, more power also...
Couldn't agree more with the single driver approach, and if your handy with wood?, the BVR's as suggested or the Dallas cab would get my vote.. Also for driver, a Fostex 8'' 206 or 207 depending on cab choice etc.. That should give you a very top notch system for the money, and you'd be able to rock out more with the bigger 8'' rather than the smaller 126,127 108 Fostex etc..
I think your best compromise though would be a cab for the Fostex 166-167 and one of Dave and Scotts BVR cabs or Rons A166. You'll retain more of the small driver qualities and get some of the larger driver qualities if that makes any sense? You could always diy a sub later if wanted etc... Dave
http://www.glow-audio.com/getglow.html
Do you mean the Lucid mode on the Taboo feedback arrangement?
I would recommend the Taboo but it's out of the budget here... It never ceases to make me get into the music, and I'm glad I made the choice a few years back now.. I must admit though I had never heard another tube amp at the time except your diy one that you use. I guess I could have done much worse with the money I spent on the Taboo, but what I don't know won't hurt me ( I hope lol
)
Dave
Ps. Re-reading I noticed my words may look like I'm saying your diy amp isn't that great, nothing could be further from the truth for the record... My crappy writing style is all....
I would recommend the Taboo but it's out of the budget here... It never ceases to make me get into the music, and I'm glad I made the choice a few years back now.. I must admit though I had never heard another tube amp at the time except your diy one that you use. I guess I could have done much worse with the money I spent on the Taboo, but what I don't know won't hurt me ( I hope lol
)Dave
Ps. Re-reading I noticed my words may look like I'm saying your diy amp isn't that great, nothing could be further from the truth for the record... My crappy writing style is all....
How much dB would I get out of FE167es in kimchi chang?
vs. FE207es in curvy chang?
Im really want to build one of rons horns but It seems to tricky, and I suppose paying a joiner to make them would be quite expensive.
Is it worth spending extra money to get the hemp drivers and using those or would I be better off getting the psu for the kingrex or something?
Would a FE127eN in a curvy Gabriel be too quiet and bass shy for some music?
I've ruled out BIB because of my high ceilings, open baffles because of not wanting a sub, how do mileva and demitri fit into this?
I think the next move is to decide what size driver.
Arthur
vs. FE207es in curvy chang?
Im really want to build one of rons horns but It seems to tricky, and I suppose paying a joiner to make them would be quite expensive.
Is it worth spending extra money to get the hemp drivers and using those or would I be better off getting the psu for the kingrex or something?
Would a FE127eN in a curvy Gabriel be too quiet and bass shy for some music?
I've ruled out BIB because of my high ceilings, open baffles because of not wanting a sub, how do mileva and demitri fit into this?
I think the next move is to decide what size driver.
Arthur
arthur Thompson said:
Since BIBs are simple pipe horns, the longer you make them the lower tuned they are, ergo a lower Fs driver can be used and since they are normally folded in half due to their typically long path-length, you can unfold a higher Fs one to fit your tall ceilings. Just some BIB driver/construction options.
Yes, you can space them up and tilt them, just that they won't load down low as well, so ideally a higher Xmax driver would be used and/or a high pass filter to give it some protection on the very low notes.
I've no experience with the FR8, but as a general rule ~1 mm Xmax drivers don't fill up a good size room down low with a wide variety of music (especially if uncompressed) unless very large BLHs are used and I found long ago that using large woofers to fill in the lows was a better choice overall to a BLH, though of course there's folks who strongly disagree.
That said, some of the latest smaller frame, high excursion drivers are being used with great success in compact enough front and back loaded (tapped) horns to use multiples, so maybe their time has finally come to the DIY masses. These would allow 'FR' drivers to be OB if you prefer.
GM
I don't want to build BIB if I cant move them to a smaller room and retain best performance.
I don't think there are any higher Xmax drivers i could use bar the 207 (1.5mm).
I don't really want to use any filters etc. to alter the speakers at all.
I'd add diy powered subs if I could, then I could finnish them the same as the speakers and still use no crossovers, it's just that getting suitable drivers and amps isn't practical with the postage?
Although if I got some I'd save on fr drivers and cabs and I suppose get better mids and highs.
Should i just place a curvy or g chang in the corner?
Would that give me more than a 60 dB/listening position average that folks typically watch prime time TV at?
I'm intrigued by smaller frame, high excursion drivers, but I suppose they're priced accordingly.
cheers
I don't think there are any higher Xmax drivers i could use bar the 207 (1.5mm).
I don't really want to use any filters etc. to alter the speakers at all.
I'd add diy powered subs if I could, then I could finnish them the same as the speakers and still use no crossovers, it's just that getting suitable drivers and amps isn't practical with the postage?
Although if I got some I'd save on fr drivers and cabs and I suppose get better mids and highs.
Should i just place a curvy or g chang in the corner?
Would that give me more than a 60 dB/listening position average that folks typically watch prime time TV at?
I'm intrigued by smaller frame, high excursion drivers, but I suppose they're priced accordingly.
cheers
I don't think you'll have any probs getting those levels you talk about, my 108ez BIB's will do that and more in my room...
You could still give the BIB cab a go if you want and experiment, it's not a hard cab to build at all... The 166 cab could be inverted instead if needed, and still maintain an ok driver height (I think)...
It would be hard to go wrong with any of the BVR's that would be recommended for you, and also the A166, or the Dallas for the 8'' 206.
Perhaps if your mostly interested in the x-overless single driver approach??, then this thread should be moved to the Full Range Forum for more compatible help...
I can't see not having a big grin on your face with a pair of these cab types, and the amp that P-10 recommended...
I guess another option would be to save up a bit more to cover the shipping, taxes, duty etc, so that those costs don't bite into your original budget... Or do the speakers or a nice amp first...
Dave
Ps. I think you could get the Fostex drivers and some others in Australia rather than from the US or other, which should provide you with much cheaper shipping costs?
You could still give the BIB cab a go if you want and experiment, it's not a hard cab to build at all... The 166 cab could be inverted instead if needed, and still maintain an ok driver height (I think)...
It would be hard to go wrong with any of the BVR's that would be recommended for you, and also the A166, or the Dallas for the 8'' 206.
Perhaps if your mostly interested in the x-overless single driver approach??, then this thread should be moved to the Full Range Forum for more compatible help...
I can't see not having a big grin on your face with a pair of these cab types, and the amp that P-10 recommended...
I guess another option would be to save up a bit more to cover the shipping, taxes, duty etc, so that those costs don't bite into your original budget... Or do the speakers or a nice amp first...
Dave
Ps. I think you could get the Fostex drivers and some others in Australia rather than from the US or other, which should provide you with much cheaper shipping costs?
Hmm, I did a typo.......... that should be a ~70 dB average TV listening SPL. I'm surprised no one caught such a gross error.
Anyway, I've got nothing for you since I know of no 'FR' only driver speaker design in your price range that meets my standards of tonal balance, clarity, polar response, etc. and especially LF acoustic efficiency without a long, slowly expanding, complex build corner horn that will 'fill' your size room at low distortion and even then they ideally need some response contour filtering and/or a super tweeter.
WRT the various small 'FR' driver Changs, etc., if the sims are reasonably accurate, then none I've looked at have enough low distortion excursion at even TV SPLs. That said, numerous folks have posted they don't find this the case and I've witnessed this at DIY Meets as well as in some folk's homes, so apparently I fall into the group that does as the thermal power and/or non-linear excursion distortion runs me out of the room post haste, ergo not knowing where yours or other's folks hearing acuity falls along this 'curve' I feel I have to always assume a 'worst case' scenario when making suggestions.
GM
Anyway, I've got nothing for you since I know of no 'FR' only driver speaker design in your price range that meets my standards of tonal balance, clarity, polar response, etc. and especially LF acoustic efficiency without a long, slowly expanding, complex build corner horn that will 'fill' your size room at low distortion and even then they ideally need some response contour filtering and/or a super tweeter.
WRT the various small 'FR' driver Changs, etc., if the sims are reasonably accurate, then none I've looked at have enough low distortion excursion at even TV SPLs. That said, numerous folks have posted they don't find this the case and I've witnessed this at DIY Meets as well as in some folk's homes, so apparently I fall into the group that does as the thermal power and/or non-linear excursion distortion runs me out of the room post haste, ergo not knowing where yours or other's folks hearing acuity falls along this 'curve' I feel I have to always assume a 'worst case' scenario when making suggestions.
GM
Wow,
Don't know how I missed this thread but, Arthur, I am also in Wanganui!
Send me a PM and you can come and listen to my Hemps.
My good (large) gear is in storage because we had to 'de-clutter' because the house is on the market but I have something for you to listen too if you like.
I have some plans to build some cabinets for these drivers. I also plan to build a few other speakers.
Cheers,
Spacies.
Don't know how I missed this thread but, Arthur, I am also in Wanganui!
Send me a PM and you can come and listen to my Hemps.
My good (large) gear is in storage because we had to 'de-clutter' because the house is on the market but I have something for you to listen too if you like.
I have some plans to build some cabinets for these drivers. I also plan to build a few other speakers.
Cheers,
Spacies.
I just looked at Tom Zurowski PAWO horn design, I think I could actually build this (though if it was any good it probably would have been recommended before).
I then read he has moved on to open baffles, so maybe I should go straight to them, I emailed an australian speaker retailer for a price on the eminence alpha-15a but they haven't got back to me, I was thinking Martin J. Kings fe103 + alpha 15 design could work although there might be no hope if I cant get the subs that are proven to work cheaply enough.
Then I read about bipole speakers and "music that doesn't sound like it's coming out of box" and that sounded good too.
I'm still pretty keen to build a g chang with single piece deflectors though.
I then read he has moved on to open baffles, so maybe I should go straight to them, I emailed an australian speaker retailer for a price on the eminence alpha-15a but they haven't got back to me, I was thinking Martin J. Kings fe103 + alpha 15 design could work although there might be no hope if I cant get the subs that are proven to work cheaply enough.
Then I read about bipole speakers and "music that doesn't sound like it's coming out of box" and that sounded good too.
I'm still pretty keen to build a g chang with single piece deflectors though.
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