scissors work fine -- I use TO-3 pads too -- but Peter, I think that your method of mounting the device with a bar, rather than one screw probably results in a much better thermal transfer function. (oh well, lucky me, I just tapped some aluminum heat sink stock for 4-40 screws).
if you don't insulate, the heat sink is at V- so you need insulated spacers to mount the heat sink --li_gangyi said:Unfortunately...not everyone likes the insulated version...he just asked about pads and you are tell mi the non-isolated version doesn't need pads...the original poster might get a bit confused you know...
the thermal "cost" of insulation can be calculated explicitly, and is part of the three theta's. i don't see why it's a problem .
The gold plated brass bar is more than insulation its also the H/S.Heat transfer is greatest when you have 2 surfaces that are flat to each other( //) to within .0001". They then wring( believe thats how its spelled, its not ring) together (actually stick together without any grease).As all i use is the LM3875T version that means the bar is electrically active so i just isolate the bar.Worked very well so far with 12 different GCs.Of course i use a poly (looking at Cu though) pressure bar for clamping.
Both the block and the chip are surfaced on a granite inspection plate that is accurate to within .00001" using a plate polishing compound.
ron
Both the block and the chip are surfaced on a granite inspection plate that is accurate to within .00001" using a plate polishing compound.
ron
Yeah...good idea...but then again...if you go through so much...might as well just insulate the whole heasink and make sure it does not touch the chassis...or at least get the isolated version...
jackinnj:
I was saying that the ISOLATED version (TF) does NOT need an insulating pad...but the non-isolated version needs (T) guess must be different interpretations of my above posts...
jackinnj:
I was saying that the ISOLATED version (TF) does NOT need an insulating pad...but the non-isolated version needs (T) guess must be different interpretations of my above posts...
Yea the gold plated brass bar is suspended by a poly plate and nylon bolts(brass on some config). It more or less just hangs from the roof of the cab.
ron
http://community.webtv.net/roncla/PressureLoadingBar
I am using my couch potato link as i am still trying to figure out windows 2000.
ron
http://community.webtv.net/roncla/PressureLoadingBar
I am using my couch potato link as i am still trying to figure out windows 2000.
ron clarke said:The gold plated brass bar is more than insulation its also the H/S.Heat transfer is greatest when you have 2 surfaces that are flat to each other( //) to within .0001". They then wring( believe thats how its spelled, its not ring) together (actually stick together without any grease).As all i use is the LM3875T version that means the bar is electrically active so i just isolate the bar.Worked very well so far with 12 different GCs.Of course i use a poly (looking at Cu though) pressure bar for clamping.
Both the block and the chip are surfaced on a granite inspection plate that is accurate to within .00001" using a plate polishing compound.
ron
In fact, the way "glues" work is to make the two surfaces absolutely smooth!
do you know where to get aluminium oxide pads in singapore? something like what peter daniel had last timeli_gangyi said:hmmm...maybe you should try aluminium oxide as an insulator...seriously...I mean it's just crazy to use metal to insulate...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Chip Amps
- Insulating Pads.