Does it flicker. see closely during the strikes. If you can see some tiny amount of light, then more than likely it is a faulty lamp. The ballast and PSU is all in one board on these. It is rare for the ballast side to die on these. It is generally the PSU side that dies. The effect of a dead PSU won't even operate the power light or LCD display.
It could be either, but I personally think the lamp is dead as I have not seen many faulty ballast on these models. How many hours on the lamp?
Check to see if the switch for the lamp cover is working. If need be, bridge the wires.
If you can find any projector which takes SHP lamp and is either 150W -200W range, you can try your lamp on that projector with the wires temporarily fixed. Make sure wires are connected the right way round as this is a DC bulb (200W DC Low Voltage Ignition Burner).
Alternatively, stick an inline fuse between the terminals of the connector from the ballast with wires (observing all safety of course) and see if the fuse blows when you hear the buzzing of the colour wheel. If it doesn't blow then it is most definately your ballast. If it does, then more than likely it will be your lamp. Keep a fire extinguisher handy
.
Hope this helps although not the safest methods mentioned.
Check to see if the switch for the lamp cover is working. If need be, bridge the wires.
If you can find any projector which takes SHP lamp and is either 150W -200W range, you can try your lamp on that projector with the wires temporarily fixed. Make sure wires are connected the right way round as this is a DC bulb (200W DC Low Voltage Ignition Burner).
Alternatively, stick an inline fuse between the terminals of the connector from the ballast with wires (observing all safety of course) and see if the fuse blows when you hear the buzzing of the colour wheel. If it doesn't blow then it is most definately your ballast. If it does, then more than likely it will be your lamp. Keep a fire extinguisher handy
.Hope this helps although not the safest methods mentioned.
Infocus
Thanks for your quick response and willingness to help. The only other information that might be of any use is; the white line is steady, but sometimes flickers. Occasionaly, after warming up for a short while, when I push "source" and it gos to the blue screen, the line disappears but then reappears as soon as connected to DVD or Computer. Heres the pic (sorry about the link, DIY wouldnt allow me to upload) infocus2.jpg picture by isaachubbard - Photobucket
Thanks for your quick response and willingness to help. The only other information that might be of any use is; the white line is steady, but sometimes flickers. Occasionaly, after warming up for a short while, when I push "source" and it gos to the blue screen, the line disappears but then reappears as soon as connected to DVD or Computer. Heres the pic (sorry about the link, DIY wouldnt allow me to upload) infocus2.jpg picture by isaachubbard - Photobucket
The first thing you should do is remove the DMD board and check the connection. The DMD sits in a grey piece of plastic which has tiny connector pins. This grey housing is sandwiched between the DMD and the board. If you remove the DMD from the plastic housing, you can use a tiny neeedle to pull out the pins one by one a little to make better contact. This process is time consuming and requires attention. Hopefully that may sort out the white line issue.
The flickering is more likely to be another issue. I am assuming that by flickering, you mean jumpy image. This is often caused by a faulty colour wheel which cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. Is your colour wheel noisey? Do you get a load whirring noise upon start up which continues? This may give an indication as to a failing colour wheel.
Alternatively, both the symptoms could be due to a faulty mainboard chipset. Again, there is no way of confirming whether it is the colour wheel or mainboard other than trial and error.
The flickering is more likely to be another issue. I am assuming that by flickering, you mean jumpy image. This is often caused by a faulty colour wheel which cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. Is your colour wheel noisey? Do you get a load whirring noise upon start up which continues? This may give an indication as to a failing colour wheel.
Alternatively, both the symptoms could be due to a faulty mainboard chipset. Again, there is no way of confirming whether it is the colour wheel or mainboard other than trial and error.
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