Eminence has design a crossover specifically for their coaxials. You can find more info here.
Alternatively one can copy the Adire audio HE10.1 that used the same driver (version II here) or this kit found on a German site.
Alternatively one can copy the Adire audio HE10.1 that used the same driver (version II here) or this kit found on a German site.
What Bob said.
OK. A decent multiway speaker design. Plenty of those out there, so pick what takes your fancy. If you want classic rock, you dont' necessarily need maximum LF extension (since, progressive rock aside, it doesn't go very low) but you do need good dynamic range, especially in the ~60Hz - 120Hz region where a lot of the LF in rock is concentrated. So as a very basic ROT, go for a design with plenty of cone area & decent efficiency. And make sure whoever did the XO is competent at it.
OK. A decent multiway speaker design. Plenty of those out there, so pick what takes your fancy. If you want classic rock, you dont' necessarily need maximum LF extension (since, progressive rock aside, it doesn't go very low) but you do need good dynamic range, especially in the ~60Hz - 120Hz region where a lot of the LF in rock is concentrated. So as a very basic ROT, go for a design with plenty of cone area & decent efficiency. And make sure whoever did the XO is competent at it.
So long as you didn't need to listen really loud. Just loud-ish, I like the Dayton F.A.S.T suggestion from Carl.
Some of the old classic rock can sound a bit lean. So I'd like the option of being able to adjust the low end to taste, depending on material.
The black aesthetic suits also.
The FR could work well in a sealed box.
Some of the old classic rock can sound a bit lean. So I'd like the option of being able to adjust the low end to taste, depending on material.
The black aesthetic suits also.
The FR could work well in a sealed box.
Thanks Tim. I was actually thinking two of the FR's in each box. You will raise the sensitivity to more in line with the woofer but still low enough to look at it as BSC and you have the option of placing the second driver on the side or rear of the enclosure if you so choose. Makes for some interesting imaging when placed on the side. Yes the FR's go in their own sub-enclosure and XO's around 200 Hz would give plenty of power handling. The OP can pick whatever drivers he wishes, I was just throwing the idea out there for consideration.
Wow, lots of suggestions!
I appreciate it. I'm not looking to break SPL records or anything. I just would like to be able to crank it up on occasion without worrying about over-driving the little 4"ers in my FH3's. On the louder music end of my musical spectrum I listen to classic rock (Zep, Tull, Rush, etc.- hey, I'm 51😄) and I'm also a big prog rock and jazz fan (Spock's Beard, Brand X, RTF, etc.). That's where it helps to be able to turn the volume to the right a bit.
I'd like to build speakers that look good while being up to the task. And while I'd consider building non-full rangers, I'd need some that have good plans, for both the cabinets and the crossovers. That's what initially drew me to the FH3's, since they were the first speakers I ever built (that, and the great reviews I read).
Again, my amp is now a Audio Analogue Puccini SE at 50 quality watts per side, so I don't need super-efficient flea amp capable designs. I may go that route at some point again, but I'll just build something else if and when that happens!
Again, thanks for all the input. I'm still looking for someone to point me to a "ready to build" solution since a speaker-designer I'm not.
Tom
I appreciate it. I'm not looking to break SPL records or anything. I just would like to be able to crank it up on occasion without worrying about over-driving the little 4"ers in my FH3's. On the louder music end of my musical spectrum I listen to classic rock (Zep, Tull, Rush, etc.- hey, I'm 51😄) and I'm also a big prog rock and jazz fan (Spock's Beard, Brand X, RTF, etc.). That's where it helps to be able to turn the volume to the right a bit.
I'd like to build speakers that look good while being up to the task. And while I'd consider building non-full rangers, I'd need some that have good plans, for both the cabinets and the crossovers. That's what initially drew me to the FH3's, since they were the first speakers I ever built (that, and the great reviews I read).
Again, my amp is now a Audio Analogue Puccini SE at 50 quality watts per side, so I don't need super-efficient flea amp capable designs. I may go that route at some point again, but I'll just build something else if and when that happens!
Again, thanks for all the input. I'm still looking for someone to point me to a "ready to build" solution since a speaker-designer I'm not.
Tom
You might want to check out the MAURBACS MTM if you are in market for multiway.
Maurbacs NS6 MTM
Maurbacs NS6 MTM
for classic rock i would build a 3 way like this :
3-Way Classic
i own a similar setup and it´s very good for classic rock
3-Way Classic
i own a similar setup and it´s very good for classic rock
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Are we losing our focus here guys? That's not gonna cut it. It says 8" woofer and it's one of those HiFi types. Think about that for a moment. 8" is the size of a midrange in a rockin' speaker. Let's not lose our way, let's get back to what will work, seriously. Even some classic rock delivers the goods, heck even some folk songs do, I should know, I'm one of the folkiest I know. 
"Slam" is pure SPL in the 60-100Hz range. You have to have at least 100dB peaks in that range to feel the music. This just happens to be where a wide-range driver win a resonant cabinet tuned 30-40Hz is going to reach max excursion. And yet again why wide-range driver don't work for hard rock.
Bob
Bob
I don't think it's silly, I'm doing both ends of it.
I've got what I posted in the garage and it sounds real good.
I've got W8-1772's in the bedroom with an elekit 8W tube amp and it sounds good. I listen to the same music on both systems. Classic rock. I'm 58 -
Every nite before the meds kick in I listen to classic rock in bed at 65 dB peak on an analog Rat Shack SPL meter. Really low. Pops is right down the hall and it can't be loud.
That's really why I love the bedroom system, it makes classic rock sound good at low SPL.
I've got what I posted in the garage and it sounds real good.
I've got W8-1772's in the bedroom with an elekit 8W tube amp and it sounds good. I listen to the same music on both systems. Classic rock. I'm 58 -
Every nite before the meds kick in I listen to classic rock in bed at 65 dB peak on an analog Rat Shack SPL meter. Really low. Pops is right down the hall and it can't be loud.
That's really why I love the bedroom system, it makes classic rock sound good at low SPL.
As long as SPLs are not high, rock/metal is playable (but not always enjoyable) with FR. Not high means 80 dB or lower. I've played Slayer with the FH Mk3 (fitted with MA CHP-70 gen1) around 70 dB and though listenable, obviously no slam/impact. Metal or music with distortion starts sounding congested pretty quickly on smallish FR units. Also found the nature of these recordings are kind of thin, and a bit of bloat around 60-120 Hz helps them sound fuller or more impactful.
Metal or music with distortion starts sounding congested pretty quickly on smallish FR units. Also found the nature of these recordings are kind of thin, and a bit of bloat around 60-120 Hz helps them sound fuller or more impactful.- Status
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