Yap, understand that if load is at 2 ohms + play very loud -> protection circuit might just kick in.
Normal conventional box spk don't usually goes down to 2 ohms anyway.
Actually easy to calculate - the current limit is 24A. 24A into 2 ohm is 1152 W, so yes, you can play pretty loud.
True, unless they do strange tricks with the bass reflex tuning or crossover.
Convention says that a 4 Ohm speaker should not drop below 2.83 Ohm (and 5.65 Ohm for 8 Ohm speakers), alas some speaker manufacturers flaunt that, but the PL200 don't drop below 3 Ohm according to the Stereophile measurements, so they get a pass. The worst load versus current phase angle is at around 80 Hertz, but 6-7 Ohm there is fairly benign.
2.83 ohm? Where is that specified? Yes, I know it is two times the square root of two, so it is also the voltage corresponding to 1W into 8 ohm...
The "convention" I am used to is the IEC standard of a minimum impedance not lower than 80% of nominal, so 3.2 ohm for a 4 ohm speaker, 6.4 ohm for an 8 ohm speaker.
I am clearly a lot older.
No connection to the nominal relationship with 2.83V and 1 Watt for 8 Ohm. That is of course related to voltage sensitivity (not efficiency).
But if somebody wants to say 80% is better than 70.7%, I won't argue on that score.
Probably in this instance IEC came up with 80% and was preceded by Neville Thiele and Richard Small by some time I suspect. Standards change, so got no beef with that.
Just for curiosity, I will ask some of my fellow designers what they follow and if they say 80%, then so be it and I will report it here. Fair enough?
No connection to the nominal relationship with 2.83V and 1 Watt for 8 Ohm. That is of course related to voltage sensitivity (not efficiency).
But if somebody wants to say 80% is better than 70.7%, I won't argue on that score.
Probably in this instance IEC came up with 80% and was preceded by Neville Thiele and Richard Small by some time I suspect. Standards change, so got no beef with that.
Just for curiosity, I will ask some of my fellow designers what they follow and if they say 80%, then so be it and I will report it here. Fair enough?
You should be OK as long as you don't try to use your amp for welding.
On the other hand, if 550W is enough for you, 400W will probably be enough too - the difference is only 1.4 dB.
Indeed. But 2.83 is a magic enough number that it must, just like with the voltage sensitivity, come from two times the square root of two - but just wondering why. It's not a number you pick just like that, "hmm, let's see, we need a bit of safety margin, so I am sure 2.83 is a good value..."
Not really a question of what is better, but simply curiosity about where your 2.83 value comes from. My 80% is from the IEC standard (and clearly a pretty arbitrary safety margin).
"Engineering by rough consensus"Just for curiosity, I will ask some of my fellow designers what they follow and if they say 80%, then so be it and I will report it here. Fair enough?
The exact value really doesn't matter - it is an arbitrary definition anyway that doesn't follow from any laws of nature. But when someone quotes a precise magic value like 2.83, I would assume there is some source and rationale for such a specific value.
Lol if I am poor at soldering I doubt I will be welding any time soon
I do use my Stereo pair for 'subwoofer' duties as I have no subwoofer in my cinema setup these days ...did manage to mute the McLaren monoblocks once showing off to my uncle ...around 200W I reckon that effort induced going by the amp specs...hopefully nCore will destroy my loudspeakers before that happens again...although doubt I would drive the system that hard ever again ;-)
I do use my Stereo pair for 'subwoofer' duties as I have no subwoofer in my cinema setup these days ...did manage to mute the McLaren monoblocks once showing off to my uncle ...around 200W I reckon that effort induced going by the amp specs...hopefully nCore will destroy my loudspeakers before that happens again...although doubt I would drive the system that hard ever again ;-)
Then why are you picking an argument? I don't understand? Is there something else behind this?
Try some more peaceful thoughts, OK?
Woah, Nelly!
Not sure why you see being curious about where you get such a precise value as "picking an argument".
My thoughts are totally peaceful, but how about you trying not to act like any clarifying question is an attack against you, OK?
You stated a very precise value, 2.83 ohm. Is it an unreasonable question to ask where that value comes from? It should be a rather easy question to answer.
Hey Mr Tane
So we have the same Loudspeakers MA PL200 ...they are nominal 4ohm, so would have thought they dip down to 2ohm?
Why are you looking to bridge nc400 out of interest?
Assuming you want more power so wouldn't you be better off with nc500 in this case?
Was toying with the idea - thinking of building 2xNC400 into a case & a possible switch behind as a bridging/stereo option.
Also understand that NC400 is using a specially design discrete input buffer by Hypex (NC500 is using op amp base input buffer) - ideally should be superior, I think.
Anyway, I cannot DIY NC500, but can DIY NC400
Other:
Found this guy in Netherland (I think) selling a DIY NC1200 mono at quite a reasonable pricing level.
Thinking of getting it instead.
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/POWER-Amplifier-Hypex-NCORE-NC1200-2-x-mono-/272159581365?
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The only problem with that is that you would have to put a switch on both inputs and outputs - there are possible issues with picking up noise, and for the speaker outputs, you need a high-current, low-resistance switch. People who obsess about the quality of their speaker connectors and cables would have a fit
The only problem with that is that you would have to put a switch on both inputs and outputs - there are possible issues with picking up noise, and for the speaker outputs, you need a high-current, low-resistance switch. People who obsess about the quality of their speaker connectors and cables would have a fit
A switch controlling 2 different relay, maybe ?
Possibly. But even then you need pretty good high-current relays with low contact resistance. Fortunately the current capability of relays tends to be specified with the possibility of actually switching while carrying the full current - hopefully you wouldn't switch amp configuration while blasting out music at full power...
I was looking at this too. My worry is that HYPEX will not service that and maybe even confiscate it should you send it in ...lot of money to drop on something that risky :-(
I am still very very curious to compare these nc1200 however ...anyone want to buy nc500 ;-)
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