Hypex Ncore

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hypex ncore

Theta did this testing and went in favour of a massive LPS for their Prometheus and even with the Dreadnaught where space is at a premium they went with LPS. Of course, there may be reasons other technical ones for their decision. But there may not be.


Yeah to make the amp bigger and heavier. It's no secret that audiophiles associate big and heavy with quality.

So is it reported to sound better than the Mola Mola Kaluga and the Bel Canto black which both use the SMPS 1200a700?
 
Coupling an NC400 / 500 / 1200 module with the applicable Hypex SMPS hardly qualifies as DIY. At best it is IKEA-style self-assembly. (That doesn't at all make it a bad project or inferior amp.)

This is part of the beauty and genius behind Hypex amps. I also think a strong reasons for why Hypex now pushes the SMPS over a LPS design. Easier build with less tech support while still offering extremely high results. Almost a "no brainer" for entry level DIY power amps.

Doing an NC build with my own linear supply is a project I would love to do at some point. Perhaps when I have finished my current amp projects. It was higher on my priority list before Theta did exactly what I wanted. The Dreadnaught D is fantastic value.

After reading close to 1000 pages of this thread I will probably go the LPS route as well. After the testing / modding that I have done with my Ucd's builds, it makes the most sense that a Ncore with a LPS done properly will have results I'm looking for.

I was hoping to read that the newer SMPS Hypex units are far superior to the recommended smps400A4000's that I used in my SMPS amp with UcD400HG with HxR's. It sounds as if most guys go the SMPS route out of easy of build and Hypex recommendation.

Either way, both of my Ucd's sound really great. I will be amazed/pleased if the Ncore's sound better then the UcD's.

A side note: Proper PSU management will change the performance of all opamps, discrete or IC. So getting the PSU right first makes the most sense to me. After that is when I would try opamp options. In my experience most datasheets only show what is needed to make things run stable, not always optimal. Once I nail down which version of PSU and Hypex modules I like best, I may test opamp options.

Anyway, thanks guys for your input.
 
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So getting the PSU right first makes the most sense to me. After that is when I would try opamp options. In my experience most datasheets only show what is needed to make things run stable, not always optimal. Once I nail down which version of PSU and Hypex modules I like best, I may test opamp options.

Good approach IMHO.
 
A bit off topic, does anyone have any experience of calibrating the voltage protection on NC500s? I'm still having problems with dropouts when using HxR regulators in the input buffer (no problem with the standard Hypex board).

I've read about 2 or 3 people who had similar issues with the NC400 and cured it with this process: Post 2746.

I can see that the NC500 has the same 5-pin programming header as the NC400 and wondered if the same process could apply.
 
Coupling an NC400 / 500 / 1200 module with the applicable Hypex SMPS hardly qualifies as DIY. At best it is IKEA-style self-assembly. (That doesn't at all make it a bad project or inferior amp.)

Don't people off by being elitist! I think it's perfectly fine to call it DIY.. and it encourages people to get involved even more.

Where should a DIYer start? In at the deep end? Or are we only allowed to join the forum with a provable CV of previous DIY projects?

Ironically this thread, for the last 20 pages or so, has become a thread about a ready-made product as produced by Boggit for profit. Now that definately can't be called DIY... :D
 
Boggit generously offered Nord One Up amps with RCAs installed, so that is no longer a problem. I can change those back to XLRs myself, and if needed, after the warranty has expired. I don't want anything extra there, that even could affect the sound or even have negative placebo effect.

I can see myself getting another amp (at least for now ;) ), maybe preamp too (the likely options are horribly expensive tho) or a cable (i just a spent month testing different combinations of ic+sc tho)...don't you worry about that. I am not trying to save money, i am trying to test some options and have some fun. It's a hobby...you know. This opamp rolling could be just the thing for me.

Try to get in on the Group Buy for Bruno Putzy's balanced pre-amp design..

I'm currently using a Pass Labs X2 (cost me £650) and it's superb with the ncores (balanced output) so there should also be an equivalent Pass Labs DIY project on this forum to follow.
 
Analogue sound to me is lush, warmer and more natural. The alternative is 'accurate' but more clinical, which can be fatiguing.

Most Valve amps sound 'analogue' to me

Real life, truely natural sound doesn't sound warm and lush to my ears.

Life to my ears sounds open and fresh and vibrant and full of infinte detail. With a good field recording that's what the nc400s give me.

I get strident sound coming through when I hear some studio recordings, more apparent on speech - I hear the response of the microphones and the eq choices and data compression used for streaming internet radio for example.

A good example is a BBC Radio 3 program called "The Late Junction" the speech is often harsh and could be fatiguing due to the studio choices.. yet a lot of the music is lush and warm where it has been recorded as such. Such a contrast within the same program using the same amps implies to me that the amp is being transparent to the source.

Recordings that ARE warm and lush using recording equipment deliberately chosen for a warm and lush sound do indeed sound lush and warm through the nc400s.

If an amp ALWAYS sounds warm and lush no matter what the sound of the source, then it's not a good amp because it colours the sound too much. If you like the sound of an amp which colours then that is perfectly valid as a personal choice.
 
hypex ncore

Who suggested that?


Nobody did but if an LPS outperforms the SMPS1200A700, then the Theta should outperform both the Mola Mola Kaluga and Bel Canto Black, both of which use the SMPS1200A700. The only other difference is the input buffers.

Maybe a more direct comparison would be the Acoustic imagery Atsah 1200 vs the Theta prometheus

The only difference I'm aware of between the 2 is the power supply. If Theta made additional tweaks, you would assume they were to improve performance.

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Nobody did but if an LPS outperforms the SMPS1200A700, then the Theta should outperform both the Mola Mola Kaluga and Bel Canto Black, both of which use the SMPS1200A700. The only other difference is the input buffers.

Sometimes we hear what we want to hear. I think many just dismiss SMPS purely on ideological grounds - the truth is that both LPS and SMPS can be done well and bad, that they have different strengths. To me it makes sense to so SMPS with Class D - I love My Mighty Tiny Amp. Kudos to Bruno and the Hypex guys.

 
Sometimes we hear what we want to hear. I think many just dismiss SMPS purely on ideological grounds - the truth is that both LPS and SMPS can be done well and bad, that they have different strengths. To me it makes sense to so SMPS with Class D - I love My Mighty Tiny Amp. Kudos to Bruno and the Hypex guys.


True, the only way to really know is to build up identical units with comparably specs but different PSU topology. Then do listening test on multiple speaker setups with a few different trusted sets of ears like I have done.

In our testing we used some Tyler DX 1's, ProAc 100's and a pair of custom high emotion audio speakers. The things that translated across all speakers and that everyone noticed seems to be a fair way to judge the differences.
 
It is funny that people can fuss over things like op amps. So much energy spent on minutae which may or may not make a difference. Such is this hobby. Want to add something to your system which actually does make a big difference? Try a pair of RPG Modex Plates. (Btw one of the few things I have found which is cheaper in the UK than in the US. Go get!)
 
It is funny that people can fuss over things like op amps. So much energy spent on minutae which may or may not make a difference. Such is this hobby. Want to add something to your system which actually does make a big difference? Try a pair of RPG Modex Plates. (Btw one of the few things I have found which is cheaper in the UK than in the US. Go get!)
Not that I want them but how much are they.
Also op amps do make a difference if you have not tried them you won't know. Its a good way of fine tuning.
 
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