Bavmike Question
Hi as I noticed earlier you have a modu case similar to the one I am thinking of buying does it keep cool the reason I ask is that I notice for a small extra you can buy the case with a top panel with a lot of ventilation holes. Just trying to decide if I should go for it or the standard case top or the one with extra ventilation. My amp will go into a cupboard not open rack.
Hi as I noticed earlier you have a modu case similar to the one I am thinking of buying does it keep cool the reason I ask is that I notice for a small extra you can buy the case with a top panel with a lot of ventilation holes. Just trying to decide if I should go for it or the standard case top or the one with extra ventilation. My amp will go into a cupboard not open rack.
For most electronics, cooler is always better (from a durability point of view). Having the holes means you can add a quiet fan to your cupboard if it ever becomes an issue.
If you were talking to me I used this one in the build I posted pics of:
http://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_26_74&product_id=100
It keeps the modules very cool. I don't even think the ventilation would be necessary, but doesn't hurt.
hypex ncore
70-75 on the heatsink after a decent workout. This is tested with a laser gun right on the module heat sinks.
70-75 on the heatsink after a decent workout. This is tested with a laser gun right on the module heat sinks.
Last edited:
I assume that is Farenheit (would be pretty hot if it was celsius), so 21-24 C for the rest of the world. Sounds strangely cool - are you sure they were turned on?
A laser gun (actually I assume you mean an IR thermometer - it has nothing to do with laser) isn't very precise at low temperatures, but above all it requires the enclosure to be open - not a very realistic measure of real operating conditions in a closed enclosure.
I have 1-wire sensors permanently mounted in my boxes (and measured with a bimetal sensor before that), and they typically run around 45 C.
I assume that is Farenheit (would be pretty hot if it was celsius), so 21-24 C for the rest of the world. Sounds strangely cool - are you sure they were turned on?
A laser gun (actually I assume you mean an IR thermometer - it has nothing to do with laser) isn't very precise at low temperatures, but above all it requires the enclosure to be open - not a very realistic measure of real operating conditions in a closed enclosure.
I have 1-wire sensors permanently mounted in my boxes (and measured with a bimetal sensor before that), and they typically run around 45 C.
I'm talking 70-75c. But this is after a hard workout driving 4 ohm speakers. As long as my IR thermometer is within 0.001 deg C, it's accurate enough for me for this application.
Still well enough within the specs - thermal protection kicks in at 90 C heatsink temperature. But I assume that is with an open enclosure (if you are measuring with an IR thermometer). I wonder how warm the interior of the enclosure gets with the cover on? Maximum air temp is specified at 65 C.
Wow! I know a bunch of lab people here who would kill for that thermometer precision! Even the well-respected Fluke 574 only does +/-0.75 C...
That's right after lifting the cover off. Anyways I'm not concerned. It's a bigger case than most people are using.
I was exaggerating a bit. It's rated at +- 2C which is accurate enough.
That's very good. But Bavmike, 70C is very hot. Most capacitors are lifetime rated using 75C as a *maximum* temperature, though Hypex certainly uses 105C rated caps. The thing is, you are cutting the life of your channels a lot. Heat is the long-term killer of caps--just look at temperature-life ratings.
I am really shocked at how many people build their Hypex amps without cooling holes or slots. Hypex doesn't say you must ventilate, but they certainly encourage it. When they say no additional cooling is needed, they mean no fan is needed. Just my two cents.
70C is under extreme conditions. There is ventilation in the case. There's more volume and ventilation in that case than any build I've seen yet. So I don't think there's any problem with that case.
Look at the Mola Mola case. Everything is crammed in as tight as it can fit with no ventilation.
Oh I'm sorry, I clearly jumped in too quickly.
Yeah, on Mola Mola, the only thing I can understand is that they want a perfectly even temperature inside. Maybe there is good coupling between heatsinks and chassis. Or they just want to hide the fancy newer sections for a while. Or some combination of the above.
There are not many ventilation holes on BC REF600M either. I can see a couple small holes in the back panel, but none on top. The amp is using SMPS 1200/700 + NC500 and it is barely warm in my daily use...which is not that loud listening tho. The SMPS600+NC400+Ghentaudio box used to run warmer, even idle.
Last edited:
It's shocking how cool the NC500's run. I just tried them out on a pair of 4 ohm Martin Logan electrostat's. The sound was outstanding. And after 30 minutes of listening at 100 db+ levels, the modules were barely warm with no heatsink whatsoever. Just the modules sitting on a concrete floor.
A friend of a friend has a pair of Martin Logan monolith III's being driven by a pair of Macintosh MC1000 monoblocks. I'm going to bring these amps over there soon and do a shootout. I'll share the results.
http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2015/01/29/korg-noritake-introduce-futuristic-nutube-vacuum-tubes/
...potential Input Buffer design option to make Class D sound Tube-like and also not run hot as a lightbulb!
...potential Input Buffer design option to make Class D sound Tube-like and also not run hot as a lightbulb!
http://www.synthtopia.com/content/2015/01/29/korg-noritake-introduce-futuristic-nutube-vacuum-tubes/
...potential Input Buffer design option to make Class D sound Tube-like and also not run hot as a lightbulb!
Looks cool but looks like it's designed for use with musical instruments. May be good for high end audio as well though. However there's other ways to emulate euphoric tube distortions as well. But you must design a system as a whole to be as transparent as possible first.
Many audiophiles view their systems as instruments rather than transparent reproduction systems - but if that is the aim, digital signal processing is the most flexible solution.
True, I can make my system sound like anything on the market, without changing hardware. Best of all you can disable when you want, or choose a different profile for different tracks. When the coloration's are built into the hardware, your stuck with them for good.
Indeed. Great if you want everything to sound like a Marshall stack, but less good if you occasionally listen to chamber music...
That's exactly right- and a key argument I use for larger-scale speaker advocacy. You may usually want 70dB and Diana Krall, but sometimes 90+dB and Beethoven is the order of the day.
Regarding heat, it seems like most of the heat in my NCores are dissipated into the chassis via the heat spreader, but there is an array of very small holes (undersized IMO) in the top of the unit, and I spaced the front and back panels out maybe 1mm from the side/top/bottom panels to allow a small amount of extra airflow.
I run very efficient speakers, the amps get warm to the touch but seems like maybe 95 degrees (chassis).
- Status
- Not open for further replies.