No one is disputing what works for some and not for others, this thread is intended to produce a result that EVERYONE can duplicate.
The photo resist method is the method that is most reliable, doesn't require any magic paper and is 100% repeatable.
Recently available is photo negative film, easily applied with a laminator, eliminates costly failures with expensive photo resist board.
I've been trying it with Caustic soda as a developer which is too harsh, I'm just waiting for the correct developer which is cheap.
Photo resist does require a printer that can produce a good solid opaque image, that can be any printer printing onto acetate. My GelJet produces the best results but so can a decent laser printer.
The photo resist method is the method that is most reliable, doesn't require any magic paper and is 100% repeatable.
Recently available is photo negative film, easily applied with a laminator, eliminates costly failures with expensive photo resist board.
I've been trying it with Caustic soda as a developer which is too harsh, I'm just waiting for the correct developer which is cheap.
Photo resist does require a printer that can produce a good solid opaque image, that can be any printer printing onto acetate. My GelJet produces the best results but so can a decent laser printer.
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It can't be done with a laser as the copper would dissipate the static charge on the image drum.
I was also thinking about X-Y plotters but these appear to be consigned to large printing processes these days rather than A4/A3 size.
I wonder if you could use this in your inkjet - MR INK - 250ML NITRO BASED INK - QUICK DRYING, WATER RESISTANT BLACK INK! | eBay.
It would prbably wreck the printhead.
It would prbably wreck the printhead.
I have a large Vinyl cutter that I used to use make CD label's with and I also used it to make Patterns to stick on boards for etching and that worked great!!!
Now days you can get a small vinyl cutter rather cheaply ($100 to $200).
I had almost bought one when I discovered the toner transfer method since I didn't have my big one with me at the time.
I still have the big one now but it needs some new rubber wheels so it is not operational at this time.
I also have a medium sized HP color plotter that I have been thinking about some how rigging it up to work as well.
I just recently read an article of someone stripping down an InkJet Printer to print directly on to a board.
It was an Epson CX series printer and I have one of those too that still works!!
There is a 3D printer available in a kit form for about $850 that will do the job and i saw another version that spit out wax on to the board for etching.
Check out the KickStarter website as that is where I saw those devices.
Pretty cool stuff with resources as to where to find or how to make the print heads!!
One other version I saw used a small laser that could cut paper and Balsa wood and other lite material that I am sure could be made to cut some sort of stencil applied to the board just like a vinyl cutter would do.
Hmmmmmmmm................................................
jer
Now days you can get a small vinyl cutter rather cheaply ($100 to $200).
I had almost bought one when I discovered the toner transfer method since I didn't have my big one with me at the time.
I still have the big one now but it needs some new rubber wheels so it is not operational at this time.
I also have a medium sized HP color plotter that I have been thinking about some how rigging it up to work as well.
I just recently read an article of someone stripping down an InkJet Printer to print directly on to a board.
It was an Epson CX series printer and I have one of those too that still works!!
There is a 3D printer available in a kit form for about $850 that will do the job and i saw another version that spit out wax on to the board for etching.
Check out the KickStarter website as that is where I saw those devices.
Pretty cool stuff with resources as to where to find or how to make the print heads!!
One other version I saw used a small laser that could cut paper and Balsa wood and other lite material that I am sure could be made to cut some sort of stencil applied to the board just like a vinyl cutter would do.
Hmmmmmmmm................................................
jer
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It's a nitrocellulose based ink I guess.
Firstly adhesion to copper won't be great.
Second, the solvents used will be strong and your probably right they'll ruin the print head.
Jer, maybe another option would be to print on self adhesive labels stick on the board and then cut out the non-trace parts and strip?
Might be tricky though and the label would have to be 'weather proof' to ensure the adhesive is not a water soluble PVA type.
Suppose it depends on how handy one is with a scalpel to accurately trace the outlines and then peel the unwanted bits away.
Might be tricky though and the label would have to be 'weather proof' to ensure the adhesive is not a water soluble PVA type.
Suppose it depends on how handy one is with a scalpel to accurately trace the outlines and then peel the unwanted bits away.
Here is the link to the Ink Jet stuff,
InkJet,PCB Etch,Etch PCB, Etchant Resist
And this one is using the old Epson,
CX4200, Direct InkJet, PCB Resist, Printing Modifications By Volkan Sahin
I have an even older Epson Stylus Color640 that I am thinking about sacrificing for such a project!!
jer
InkJet,PCB Etch,Etch PCB, Etchant Resist
And this one is using the old Epson,
CX4200, Direct InkJet, PCB Resist, Printing Modifications By Volkan Sahin
I have an even older Epson Stylus Color640 that I am thinking about sacrificing for such a project!!
jer
That is exactly what I did!!
I cut my trace pattern in the vinyl and then you stick it to a transfer tape. Then you take off the pieces you don't want and stick it to the board, pull off the transfer tape and etch it!!
I was able to scan my image in and I have a tracer program that would calculate the cuts around all of the traces between the black and white shades in the image.
It was a very expensive program for the mid 90's.
jer
The Epson R800 will print onto the copper without resorting to butchering, however, even the Epson genuine pigment inks are not water resistant.
I've got an R800 here, virtually unused - anyone can have it for £100. It comes with 7 x brand new genuine cartridges which cost £100 alone.
I've got an R800 here, virtually unused - anyone can have it for £100. It comes with 7 x brand new genuine cartridges which cost £100 alone.
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Man....I wish I had the cash!!!
I was looking for one as they are old.
In the hacked up version he said he had to make a print and then bake it and make another print and bake it like 2 or 3 times for it to make a suitable resist.
Repeatability can be an issue there, although I haven't read the whole thing to see how he solved that issue
If I could make the print head work with a suitable ink, I could figure out a way to mount it on either my HP plotter or my Vinyl cutter as it is just a bigger and more powerful plotter.
jer
I was looking for one as they are old.
In the hacked up version he said he had to make a print and then bake it and make another print and bake it like 2 or 3 times for it to make a suitable resist.
Repeatability can be an issue there, although I haven't read the whole thing to see how he solved that issue
If I could make the print head work with a suitable ink, I could figure out a way to mount it on either my HP plotter or my Vinyl cutter as it is just a bigger and more powerful plotter.
jer
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