Right. The temperature of LT1763 will raise faster when a higher voltage supply using.
Nobody will power at 20V of course ! why focus on that ? I think Hifimediy mentioned to show that there will be some liberty of choice to power. Reasonalbly 6 to 9Vdc will please everyone.
My understanding from reading the description is that DC power will go through rectifier bridge (it says non polarized DC input).
LT1763 needs 0.4V drop min.
3V6 + 0.4 + 1.2 (rectifier drop) = 5.2dc absolute minimum.
My understanding from reading the description is that DC power will go through rectifier bridge (it says non polarized DC input).
LT1763 needs 0.4V drop min.
3V6 + 0.4 + 1.2 (rectifier drop) = 5.2dc absolute minimum.
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Off topic
@juhazi : I built the setup with audacity as you did.
PC -> UAE23 dac -> EMU0204 souncard input -> PC
audacity recording nothing for 10seconds. (well... not nothing, recording the noise). Then analyser > spectrum.
Nothing shows up in the window because it's below the -80dB threshold!
You must have a serious issue in your setup to measure such a noise level. Probably added gain at the input.
BTW, may I suggest to use a tool better suited for measurement, like REW for example. The RTA window shows the noise real time. You can also perform THD measurement and much more with this tool.
back on topic
@juhazi : I built the setup with audacity as you did.
PC -> UAE23 dac -> EMU0204 souncard input -> PC
audacity recording nothing for 10seconds. (well... not nothing, recording the noise). Then analyser > spectrum.
Nothing shows up in the window because it's below the -80dB threshold!
You must have a serious issue in your setup to measure such a noise level. Probably added gain at the input.
BTW, may I suggest to use a tool better suited for measurement, like REW for example. The RTA window shows the noise real time. You can also perform THD measurement and much more with this tool.
back on topic
i'm not focusing on that? you have a strange idea of focusing. why would 'nobody do that of course' when it was mentioned it was OK?
I made a single post to clarify for those reading/building that in fact running at 20v would be a bad idea, not just that 6-9v is preferred, as well as acknowledging that he didnt recommend 20v specifically.
it could be interpreted from his post that 20v would be ok, just not what he would recommend ideally
do remember while not all building this kit are beginners, quite a few will be and not read much/any of the LT1763 datasheet before first power on. Some may not understand the math to work out what would be ok as a max input voltage, because they would first need to work out the load current, I was not being critical.
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This tiny DAC (in stock) is better than other ES9023 DAC I have had chance to try.
But it became another league after did some mods. Substitute USB power supply by battery, adding another LT1763 filter stage, then changed clock to low jitter one with dedicated PS. Sound became more natural, detail, open, full body and less harshness. Very easy to listen
I have just ordered the later version today to see how good the Adum4160 is
But it became another league after did some mods. Substitute USB power supply by battery, adding another LT1763 filter stage, then changed clock to low jitter one with dedicated PS. Sound became more natural, detail, open, full body and less harshness. Very easy to listen
I have just ordered the later version today to see how good the Adum4160 is
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I am very interested to hear more details about your mods. Could you write a short guide and maybe post a few photos?
Windows driver
I noticed that the UAE23 is also available on Amazon: Amazon.com: HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC Digital to Analog Audio Converter 96khz/24bit ES9023+TE7022 + USB to Optical Converter: Everything Else
In the product description it states:
"No drivers required for Mac, Windows and Linux! However for Windows 7 we recommend installing the driver, as the default windows driver has some issues with noise."
What is the recommended driver then? I know people have mentioned the TeraLink-X2 driver before but is that the best one?
I noticed that the UAE23 is also available on Amazon: Amazon.com: HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC Digital to Analog Audio Converter 96khz/24bit ES9023+TE7022 + USB to Optical Converter: Everything Else
In the product description it states:
"No drivers required for Mac, Windows and Linux! However for Windows 7 we recommend installing the driver, as the default windows driver has some issues with noise."
What is the recommended driver then? I know people have mentioned the TeraLink-X2 driver before but is that the best one?
Hey Quan! I don't think PCM2705 is potential for modification so I didn't spend much time with AE. I think the moded AE lack detail. Will try take USB signal from AE and send it to TE7022. It makes this DAC become more convenient with wireless
@diykast: I would take some pics, perhaps in this weeken when have time to finish. Now this work with bread board like a mess
Answering my own question - Found out that in the ebay listing for the UAE23 they did provide links to the recommended TeraLink-X2 drivers.
Power Supply/Connector for UAE23+
RE:Sabre USB DAC (external PSU) . 96khz/24bit - ES9023+TE7022 + Coaxial OUT Model:UAE23+
Any recommendations for a PSU for use in the United States? As the unit is only $59, I'd rather not spend too much.
I sent HiFimedDIY an email asking if they will be offering an external PSU, and if so, when will it be available. I'll update when I get a reply.
TIA!
RE:Sabre USB DAC (external PSU) . 96khz/24bit - ES9023+TE7022 + Coaxial OUT Model:UAE23+
Any recommendations for a PSU for use in the United States? As the unit is only $59, I'd rather not spend too much.
I sent HiFimedDIY an email asking if they will be offering an external PSU, and if so, when will it be available. I'll update when I get a reply.
TIA!
The new version need only a 9v transformer to work the rest of the power supply is built-in but that's not the end of it if you want the best sound possible.
A small 9v transformer is relatively cheap.
A small 9v transformer is relatively cheap.
I didn't know the current draw for both the usb isolation board and the dac so I just use one relatively large heat sink that I have on hand. In fact, I can't feel any heat when I touch it. It seems very low current is drawn by the circuit.
I chose 9vac because the isolation board specification requires min 8vdc. 9vac gives 10vdc after retification and filtering. Note that the Isolation board has its own discret regulator. I think max drop out on lt1963 is 2v and max drop out on the onboard discret regulator is 3v.
In fact there are 3 regulator before the DAC chip. Lt1963 - onboard regulator of the isolation board and then LT1763 on the DAC pcb. Therefore i think ripple rejection would be good.
May be inserting a current regulator in place of lt1963 is best but lt1963 and the pcb is readily available to me... Do you have any recommendation on this? Which other chip is better?
I chose 9vac because the isolation board specification requires min 8vdc. 9vac gives 10vdc after retification and filtering. Note that the Isolation board has its own discret regulator. I think max drop out on lt1963 is 2v and max drop out on the onboard discret regulator is 3v.
In fact there are 3 regulator before the DAC chip. Lt1963 - onboard regulator of the isolation board and then LT1763 on the DAC pcb. Therefore i think ripple rejection would be good.
May be inserting a current regulator in place of lt1963 is best but lt1963 and the pcb is readily available to me... Do you have any recommendation on this? Which other chip is better?
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