Just an observation... the fuse sits in circuit protecting, by the look of the photo, the AC supply to the bridge rectifier.. therefore polarity is not selectable.
The most expensive slow blow fuse I use is type M. That means it is filled with silicon, (Sand filled) and I pay less than 8pence for them!
The most expensive slow blow fuse I use is type M. That means it is filled with silicon, (Sand filled) and I pay less than 8pence for them!
Last edited:
You know, sometimes electrical plug in connections can fail or be intermittent. Unplugging and reconnecting can sometimes restore their function. This could be a logical explanation for the OP's claim.
My car (a Subaru) threw a code for the knock sensor. (The knock sensor is basically a piezoelectric microphone tuned to a narrow frequency range.) Since it is common for ECU related components and wiring to "hiccup" and throw a code, I erased the code; but it threw the code again several times, so I surmised that in fact there was a fault. The sensor grounds to the engine block (real bad idea for a computer input I know), so I loosened the bolt, wiggled the sensor, and tightened the bolt up. No more check engine light! I then performed a test with a plastic hammer and a timing light and verified that in fact the knock sensor was detecting "knocks" and the ECU was retarding the timing.
If I had gone to Bubba's Auto Repair, they would have just replaced the sensor and charged me a couple hundred bucks.
My car (a Subaru) threw a code for the knock sensor. (The knock sensor is basically a piezoelectric microphone tuned to a narrow frequency range.) Since it is common for ECU related components and wiring to "hiccup" and throw a code, I erased the code; but it threw the code again several times, so I surmised that in fact there was a fault. The sensor grounds to the engine block (real bad idea for a computer input I know), so I loosened the bolt, wiggled the sensor, and tightened the bolt up. No more check engine light! I then performed a test with a plastic hammer and a timing light and verified that in fact the knock sensor was detecting "knocks" and the ECU was retarding the timing.
If I had gone to Bubba's Auto Repair, they would have just replaced the sensor and charged me a couple hundred bucks.
Oh well..... you might know the old Chinese proverb: "As long as there is horseshit, there will be sparrows....."
Brilliant - I love it.
There is something to be gained by having corrosion resistant contacts, so OK gold plating might work there.
Other than that it is down to physics, we want a wire that will melt under stress.
What is the inductance of a straight wire 20mm or even 1 1/4" long. Next to nothing. Surround it with sand, cheap as chips, and there will be no resonance unless you are looking at UHF frequencies.
It's debateable who can and cannot hear ultrasonics (above 40kHz), but UHF, are you claiming you can hear MMHz.
It's debateable who can and cannot hear ultrasonics (above 40kHz), but UHF, are you claiming you can hear MMHz.
"For best performance, the HiFi Tuning fuses should be installed one way, listened to, and then reversed the other way to determine best sonic orientation."
I just love that line, pure genius came up with that one
Seriously though, is there any possibility any of these fancy fuses actually have something inside them like a bit of ferrite or something for filtering, or are they all pure snake oil?
I just love that line, pure genius came up with that one
Seriously though, is there any possibility any of these fancy fuses actually have something inside them like a bit of ferrite or something for filtering, or are they all pure snake oil?
Yet despite knowing what a fuse should be, you ask us why the gizmo you have wasted money on, is not just a fuse?
dazzz, this product is known as audio snake oil. You have been taken for a ride by a manufacturer of unknown or unproven products that are endorsed by unknown writers who sell their souls for cheap by writing sham endorsements. Read closely - nothing of any substance is stated in such reviews. It's all imaginative touchy-feely waffling.
It doesn't matter if it acts even like a time bomb when you reverse it - the point is that is unsatisfactory in the specified use and you should return it for a refund rather than guess what could be inside and damage your amplifier. The heating, after all, could even be instability (oscillation) of the amplifier(s).
I asked some specific questions about the instructions. 'Fine if you choose not to reply but there's no way we're going out to spend that sort of money on a product and waste further time and money determining what's inside and then guess how it could do anything useful at all. Those who remember Bybee Quantum Purifier threads here will know this nonsense goes on for years.
I opened the thread
Was not my intention to ask for the opinion on whether the fuse good.
I opened the thread to ask if into something that the fuse has been such a problem.
I used Fuse before the reconstruction project of 3910 DENON DVD
The audio circuit and power supply SMPS
And I can 100 percent tell you where he made a difference for the better
I'm sure you also claim that changing the power cable inside a simple cable that costs 10 cents
NEOTECH cable is not making a difference ????
But yes yes yes it makes a difference
After the process SMPS project on the DENON DVD 3910
Where some of the components
I replaced the power cord inside and heard a big difference for the better
My logic would replace the fuse with fuse that might better materials
And my logic was correct the HIFI TUNING SUPREME really gave the final touch
And now the amplifier
Here in all honesty I did not hear the significant difference I replaced the fuse
Attachments
Last edited:
A fuse is a safety device, and as such I would use a proper fuse, not some silly audio super tuned fuse. Simple as you are playing with high voltage and the risk of fire, so I would supress any thoughts that 20mm of fuse can effect your sound and think safety first.
if the fuse does make such a difference as you say I would be interested in scope shots of ac before and after the fuse and say a 1k test tone with a standard fuse and this one out of your amp.
if the fuse does make such a difference as you say I would be interested in scope shots of ac before and after the fuse and say a 1k test tone with a standard fuse and this one out of your amp.
Many here design and build their own equipment and are well aware of what is required to make real improvements to domestic audio equipment. One thing is for sure amongst active members here, is that there are no magic bullet gizmos that improve your audio by simply fitting in the AC power line to your audio equipment - period! If that were possible, it would have been part of all audio power supply designs for decades. Consider that if a device has to provide power for entirely different functions, just what a single type of device could do with no adaption other than current rating, to the specific appliance.
Note that I didn't say you couldn't feel that gadgets improve something; this being the psychological experience of audio, the angle snake oil salesmen use - avoiding technical issues and discussion entirely.
I doubt you'll find many DIYs that admit to having used these products or anything like them. Without a solid reason, clear statement of what they physically do or proof of benefit, why would a person accept that there was a benefit worth considerable $$?
Last edited:
You say
fevered imagination
So let me tell you
is not imagination
I began to suspect that this
Only when I heard music on the arcam fmj32
and the amp shuts down
And written on his display overheating
Amp was really hot
I began to check the amp if it heats up - Every time I hear music
Before replacing the fuse it has never happened to me at ARCAM
That day I opened the thread I heard about an hour amp is warmed up a lot.
After that as a last attempt before returning the original fuse I changed the polarity of the fuse
I heard two hours of music and the amp is not warmed-
So do not say I imagined
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.