I'm currently recapping my arcam delta 290p (started on 1 of 3)
i am having an issues where once the small cap is out the hole get filled with solder that i cant get out or melt
i have used a desoldering tool
it just keeps getting worse the more i try.
has anyone get any tips i have thought to get a 0.3mm drill bit but i really dont want to go down that road.
thanks for any help
Also i use the hakko FX-888D and EDSYN DS017 DESOLDER TOOL
i am having an issues where once the small cap is out the hole get filled with solder that i cant get out or melt
i have used a desoldering tool
it just keeps getting worse the more i try.
has anyone get any tips i have thought to get a 0.3mm drill bit but i really dont want to go down that road.
thanks for any help
Also i use the hakko FX-888D and EDSYN DS017 DESOLDER TOOL
The desolder tool you have should be good to go. I think netlists suggestion of flux is a good one.
Sometimes it just takes a long time getting that nozzle at just the right angle to suck out the last bits. Just take your time and don't overheat the traces. Keep cleaning the tip and using a little flux between each go/cool down. I bet you'll get it.
Sometimes it just takes a long time getting that nozzle at just the right angle to suck out the last bits. Just take your time and don't overheat the traces. Keep cleaning the tip and using a little flux between each go/cool down. I bet you'll get it.
ya I'm new to soldering i did a arcam alpha 6 recap with new mosfets and recapped a sub that had that horrible rubbery glue over everything but this delta is a nightmare took me 30mins for 2 caps and got the caps hot HOT but I cant do that 2 again.
took off a pad for one and yes the solder was melted and everything was free moving.
i think the traces go to both sides so i might just solder from the top if it comes to. and this pcb was made around 1991 to 93 so its using leaded solder and I'm using lead free solder so it might not like the mix. (i do clean off the old solder as much a possible)
i have checked that my soldering iron is hot it melts solder instantly.
took off a pad for one and yes the solder was melted and everything was free moving.
i think the traces go to both sides so i might just solder from the top if it comes to. and this pcb was made around 1991 to 93 so its using leaded solder and I'm using lead free solder so it might not like the mix. (i do clean off the old solder as much a possible)
i have checked that my soldering iron is hot it melts solder instantly.
For a really stubborn hole, where neither the desolder pump nor wick works, I've used a pair of fine tip tweezers. Place one tip on the hole, heat the pad while pushing the tweezers into the hole, pull the iron back first and then the tweezers. You have to get the timing right, but it has worked well for me.
I agree with those that said add fresh solder to the clogged hole and suck that up. It works much better than trying to suck that little but out of the hole! If you use a solder sucker and have any air gap around the tip it will suck air instead of solder. A juicy blob of solder let’s you put the nose of the sucker down in it and it just pull the solder and not air. Be very careful using a tiny drill but in multi layer boards as you can damage the middle layers and not know it until the thing doesn’t work and you say dirty words! If you can’t clear the hole no matter what you can place the leads of the new part on the hole and heat the lead very close to the board and slid it through but this is a last resort. You can also try heating one side of the hole with a little extra solder then sock from the other side. Find an old piece of junk circuit board and practice before you ruin a good board.
A quick check of the Edsyn. **** the spring and hold your finger tightly over the tip.
When you press the release button it should take a few seconds to retract. The unit
originally had silicone grease in it a a sealant. This is similar to grease for swimming
pool gaskets.
The soldering iron should be clean and shiny. When touching solder directly to the heated
tip it should melt nearly instantly AND flow over the tip. It should not 'hesitate' or make
globs. Do NOT use abrasives on the tip as you'll damage the plating. Flux from a flux pen
will clean a hot tip. If that doesn't do it, replace the tip.
Don't use a drill bit as it's VERY easy to remove the plated though hole in a PCB. This is
difficult on a 2 layer board and makes a 4 layer board almost a throw away. If there is a
ground or power layer without thermal reliefs it can be vey tough to clear out the holes. A
hot air tool AND the soldering iron can get the board hot enough to clear the solder. An
adequate hot air tool can be had for $40 to $50 US through Amazon or eBay.
G²
one got a little meltly
i may or may not have slipped with the soldering iron
it was only the case but it will bother me.
i heard somewhere there life time was about 25 years
also the film caps say 100u is that just 100uf?
i may or may not have slipped with the soldering iron
it was only the case but it will bother me.
i heard somewhere there life time was about 25 years
i always keep the tip clean and sometimes takes time heating the solder if its on a big traces.
i didn't want to use the drill bit but I'm very careful with it ,im slow and make sure that I'm centred and i think the hole is 0.7 or 0.8 mm as with a clear hole it can wiggle around a bit. plus the board was not designed for the heat of unleaded stuff so the board's solder mask on the traces just come off with the iron too close. so im trying to stay away from high heat atm.
also the film caps say 100u is that just 100uf?