Based on my experience that's not correct, but that's what I thought too until I tried to run them with no heatsink. The UcD400 will overheat and shut down with no heatsink in a short period of time, even with no input signal. They don't create much heat, but with no way to dissipate the little heat they do produce, the thermal protection will engage.
But it will work for a short period of time. Failure to do so indicates another problem, so you're totally correct in that respect.
But, once the other problem is solved (which I'm sure it will be assuming the modules aren't damaged), if the modules don't get heat sinked the amp still won't be useful. Mine will overheat at any volume level and shut down within a few minutes without heatsinks. Maybe I can loosen the screws on the heat sinks and do a test to see how long it takes to shut down after power is applied and the modules start. The only problem there is it can't be good for the module even though it technically shouldn't break it.
If you can hold your finger on the blue aluminum block the temp should be well within the limits of the module - it will burn you before it shuts down.
I also noticed that some modules get hotter than others with no signal. Not sure why that is.
I recall running mine for a little while at low or moderate volume with no extra heatsinking, and no shut down. Load was relatively light. (and it was open air) I agree though, they are designed to require just a small amount of additional heatsinking from a chassis or such...
ambient temperatures and airflow would affect this as well of course.
IIRC, they are all factory adjusted for performance. I'm sure that depending on component tolerance and specs some will end up biased a bit hotter or cooler. I think this is explicitly mentioned either somewhere in their docs or in a posting somewhere by Jan-Peter...
bad news!
It does still not work.
i don't know what i have to do now..I even put the ucds on more stable support for better cooling (see pictures) but this is for nothing when they are not even illuminated...i also put the Pin 5 (and 6) to the pin 4 ( J1 on Ucds is the Molex plug isn't it? it is not writen and there is nothing otherwise!)
I found something strange with this kind of little screws on the ucd's to adjust what else....but they are not in the same position (see pictures). Is this normal?
Otherwise i don't know what have to do. I thought i would be easier...
It does still not work.
i don't know what i have to do now..I even put the ucds on more stable support for better cooling (see pictures) but this is for nothing when they are not even illuminated...i also put the Pin 5 (and 6) to the pin 4 ( J1 on Ucds is the Molex plug isn't it? it is not writen and there is nothing otherwise!)
I found something strange with this kind of little screws on the ucd's to adjust what else....but they are not in the same position (see pictures). Is this normal?
Otherwise i don't know what have to do. I thought i would be easier...
Attachments
Hi Souldriver
Do you have a Multimeter? If so have you tested that there is power at the all points before the modules?
You may have already done this but just in case.
You should test all of the power supply line points, start at the incoming AC & work your way to the outputs of the PSU, (be careful) check that the DC volts coming off the PSU, are you getting the volts of the PSU you are suppose to get, is it too low, is it too high?
The little knobs are some sort of trim pots and they are probably set in the factory, the reason they are there is for fine adjustment & its unlikely there is anything wrong there.
Have you double checked that the power Connector J1 is wired correctly, did the cables come ready made with the connector or did you have to put it together?
Can anyone tell me what "Positive Bootstrap Driver Voltage (Vdr)" means?
Do you have a Multimeter? If so have you tested that there is power at the all points before the modules?
You may have already done this but just in case.
You should test all of the power supply line points, start at the incoming AC & work your way to the outputs of the PSU, (be careful) check that the DC volts coming off the PSU, are you getting the volts of the PSU you are suppose to get, is it too low, is it too high?
The little knobs are some sort of trim pots and they are probably set in the factory, the reason they are there is for fine adjustment & its unlikely there is anything wrong there.
Have you double checked that the power Connector J1 is wired correctly, did the cables come ready made with the connector or did you have to put it together?
Can anyone tell me what "Positive Bootstrap Driver Voltage (Vdr)" means?
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thanks for a great thread for newbie like me. My first project of getting the volume/pot and RCA input selector didn't go well on a t-amp, but after getting help got it all done.
It looks good, and I am sure u can get the sound working soon.
gychang
It looks good, and I am sure u can get the sound working soon.
gychang
Hi everybody
Thanks for your help. I definitely need it
So, now i have two wire plugs:
- on the first picture is J4
- the second picture is J6
But i have no idea how i have to connect these wire plugs. There is no other possibility to put these plugs on the UCD or i am wrong?
How do i have to connect Smps with the UCD's to enable them and where is this pin?
Thanks again!
I tried to measure with a multimeter the voltage.
- power plug gives me 230 which is perfect
- softstart in, still 230, softstart out 1.5!!!!!
- smps also 1.4
and now....still badly news....softstart do not work anymore either...
i guess is shorted out...gone!
i will contact a friend to check everything and then i will see if i lost a lot of money or not.
in between i really wanna thank everybody here for your kind help. it is really pleasure to be here.
- power plug gives me 230 which is perfect
- softstart in, still 230, softstart out 1.5!!!!!
- smps also 1.4
and now....still badly news....softstart do not work anymore either...
i guess is shorted out...gone!
i will contact a friend to check everything and then i will see if i lost a lot of money or not.
in between i really wanna thank everybody here for your kind help. it is really pleasure to be here.
you still have the output of the sofstart on the wrong pins. see the diagram in my other post #38
the AC out should be on the middle two pins of the second four connectors (F7 & F5 in that diagram). If you don't understand this let me know and I can draw a different diagram on your picture. the fact that you measure 1.4/1.5 is not unexpected. You are really measuring zero Volts, but that's below the basic accuracy of the meter. (and there is likely some noise)
yes, those are normal. factory adjustments. Do not touch them, there is nothing that should need user adjustment.
Thanks electic!
because the softstart went to the softstart-heaven i need to connect the smps directly to the power. this should not be a big thing and some of you told me that there is no problem to doing that. the only thing is how do i have to connect the illuminated push-button to the smps?
I will try this evening to connect the smps directly to the power. i ll keep you informed....hopefully it will work now...
because the softstart went to the softstart-heaven i need to connect the smps directly to the power. this should not be a big thing and some of you told me that there is no problem to doing that. the only thing is how do i have to connect the illuminated push-button to the smps?
I will try this evening to connect the smps directly to the power. i ll keep you informed....hopefully it will work now...
Thanks electic!
because the softstart went to the softstart-heaven i need to connect the smps directly to the power. this should not be a big thing and some of you told me that there is no problem to doing that. the only thing is how do i have to connect the illuminated push-button to the smps?
I will try this evening to connect the smps directly to the power. i ll keep you informed....hopefully it will work now...
bummer, sorry to hear the softstart is broken. Maybe witha little help you can still fix it...
yes, connecting AC directly to SMPS is fine. And is the "expected" method I think.
Without the softstart, I'm not sure there is a way to use that illuminated button. I don't believe the SMPS has facilities for that. (I didn't use the SMPS myself) I would suggest, at least temporarily to use a simple switch on the AC.
Though the softstart is not required, it does have nice features for handling the switch.
Hope everything works out well!
Ok, now i am ready to try this once again...i got a new softstart from Hypex (i would like to work the pushbutton).
Now, for the ucds i am still not sure about the on/off wire (4 pin Molex) where i have to connect them. Is it enough to just connect them to the ground (see picture, the pink wire) on the ucds or should i connect them to J4 (5th or 6th pin) from the smps?
Thanks again!
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Ok, now i am ready to try this once again...i got a new softstart from Hypex (i would like to work the pushbutton).
Now, for the ucds i am still not sure about the on/off wire (4 pin Molex) where i have to connect them. Is it enough to just connect them to the ground (see picture, the pink wire) on the ucds or should i connect them to J4 (5th or 6th pin) from the smps?
Thanks again!
View attachment 222949
Don't Hypex give any instructions?
Not really! I guess you need to have more then just a bit electrical basic-knowledge to understand this very poor drawings. it's definitely not for newbies like me. so i am very happy that i found some help in this place (javin5, sampleaccurate, luka and last but not least eclectic2k - thanks guys).
).
either is fine.
- direct to GND is functional and will do the job... simple is often better.
- connect to J4, is a little more "elegant" and may reduce chances of any transient noises at power on or off. (if it was not of at least some use, hypex would not have provided the option - I would think...)
Not really! I guess you need to have more then just a bit electrical basic-knowledge to understand this very poor drawings. it's definitely not for newbies like me. so i am very happy that i found some help in this place (javin5, sampleaccurate, luka and last but not least eclectic2k - thanks guys
their documentation is a little on the "lean" side. Fine if you've got experience, but yes, I can see many confusing things not clearly explained for those less experienced.
Always worth having someone double check if you aren't sure!
Any news, souldriver?
I have some problems with my UcD400STs. One is a v6 and the other a v8. I am using 48V Meanwell SMPSs to power them. The v6 powers up fine, the v8 doesn't and I don't know why - they are wired up the same way. I even sent the v8 back but it tested fine. The Meanwells have no ground output, so I just connected the enable pin on the Molex to the GND Faston spade. This works on the v6 but not the v8. Is the ground the problem? Should I connect the GND Faston and enable pin to mains earth, or will this blow something?
Help would be appreciated.
I have some problems with my UcD400STs. One is a v6 and the other a v8. I am using 48V Meanwell SMPSs to power them. The v6 powers up fine, the v8 doesn't and I don't know why - they are wired up the same way. I even sent the v8 back but it tested fine. The Meanwells have no ground output, so I just connected the enable pin on the Molex to the GND Faston spade. This works on the v6 but not the v8. Is the ground the problem? Should I connect the GND Faston and enable pin to mains earth, or will this blow something?
Help would be appreciated.
Now, for the ucds i am still not sure about the on/off wire (4 pin Molex) where i have to connect them.
I connected it to power ground as recommended by Hypex. I don't use the idle feature and a trigger switch; I just do the on/off switching directly at the 230 VAC primary. Works very well for me; absolutely silent when I switch on or off. I have only an UcD180, not so much power, so I don't use a soft start. And I also use a linear power supply (supply HG from Hypex); so I'm not sure if my experience is of any help to you.
Hope you are making some progress in getting this fine amp to work; the sound quality is really good and I enjoy it very much. What I still don't know, is the sonic difference between powering it with an SMPS versus a linear supply; so far I found no info about any direct comparison.
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