Hard to say... the pictures are not big enuff. Hardwood ply is usually better. Void free with lots of plies is what you are looking for... Baltic Birch has 13 in an 18 mm thickness, the Murphy ply we use has 15.
Why not? With a max size volume of 30-some litres to fit your space and only needing 16 you should have lots of wiggle room. We would use a holey brace (from driver to back of cabinet) before doubling the baffle.
Internal or external dimensions?
dave
Can't seem to find any 25mm plywood. Where would I get some from in the UK?
What sort of tools would you use to make the holes in the brace and the front panel, and also the 165mm indentation in the front panel so the driver fits in nice and snug. If I had a double baffle I could make a 165mm hole in the first one and 139mm in the second one, no? But this would only be needed if 18mm ply wood was used?
The 240,400,170 dimensions are internal to give 16 litres. It is a little shallow (are there any problems with this?). There is a woodworking workshop at my university (Brunel) - I could probably ask them for some help, with of course a donation of some tea and biscuits (best way to bribe technicians)
.
What sort of tools would you use to make the holes in the brace and the front panel, and also the 165mm indentation in the front panel so the driver fits in nice and snug. If I had a double baffle I could make a 165mm hole in the first one and 139mm in the second one, no? But this would only be needed if 18mm ply wood was used?
The 240,400,170 dimensions are internal to give 16 litres. It is a little shallow (are there any problems with this?). There is a woodworking workshop at my university (Brunel) - I could probably ask them for some help, with of course a donation of some tea and biscuits (best way to bribe technicians)
.
Well, for much of my speaker building 'career', I used either a hand hole cutting or electric jig saw, laminating two plates as you suggested to make any rebates before finally getting several different electric routers, many bits for just a few $$$ at various estate sales.
Regardless, many have posted here and on other sites that they got their woodworking done at the local school/university.
Too shallow is when the driver and/or vent won't fit, so leave at least one vent diameter gap to the rear wall. Drivers with no rear vent can be butted up against it and some of us have been known to cut out a recess to make it fit.
GM
Regardless, many have posted here and on other sites that they got their woodworking done at the local school/university.
Too shallow is when the driver and/or vent won't fit, so leave at least one vent diameter gap to the rear wall. Drivers with no rear vent can be butted up against it and some of us have been known to cut out a recess to make it fit.
GM
with of course a donation of some tea and biscuits (best way to bribe technicians)
I always thot it was beer...
dave
So if I decide to use a brace, what would the benefits be? What would be the ideal hole area ratio? Would I have to increase the internal volume of the cabinet to compensate.
Generally, if you are polite, and more importantly empathetic that they're approached by a lot of people who don't know what they want/are doing and do your research first then even the most sarcastic workshop technicians can be tamed . I think going the extra mile makes a difference.
Generally, if you are polite, and more importantly empathetic that they're approached by a lot of people who don't know what they want/are doing and do your research first then even the most sarcastic workshop technicians can be tamed
. I think going the extra mile makes a difference.
18 mm even without one of those holey braces is overkill for this driver/size cab, but it doesn't hurt and the extra weight helps.
So the partial cutout circular holes have to be cut with a router? Must take a steady hand. How would you do it?
I don't quite follow
There may be some folks who can freehand accurate circles with a router, but never seen any, so we use either DIY and/or manufactured jigs: https://www.google.com/webhp?source...S610&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=router hole jigs
Drivers vibrate and with rare exception the baffle doesn't damp them enough, so need to be tension coupled to the cab somehow. An adjustable screw block is one way, though the most popular in recent years is a horizontal or vertical holey brace that's notched out to hold/tension the driver motor as it's being tightened down. These are shown on Dave's many cab drawings. The screw block is out on the net, but I don't have the link handy.
Another kind of mass loading for when the cab isn't heavy enough is simply adding a bunch of weight to the top of the cab to mass load it to the floor/whatever.
GM
No problem Chris. I don't post on the full-range forum much these days, so its entirely possible you've forgotten about me
Monty, B&Q stock 2 kinds of plywood. The hardwood stuff is probably the one you want, but its not cheap:
18mm: Untreated Hardwood Plywood (W)607mm (L)1220mm (T)18mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
12mm: Untreated Hardwood Plywood (W)607mm (L)1220mm (T)12mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
The alternative is the softwood ply, which I've used previously. Its not bad, but not as nice as the hardwood one.
B&Q Untreated Plywood (W)2.44m (L)1.22m (T)12mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
Last time I wanted something doing, I think they were cutting 18mm stuff doubled up.
Anyway, I know its expensive, but it takes out quite a bit of the work. Just make sure you plan your cutsheet before walking in.
Chris
No problem Chris. I don't post on the full-range forum much these days, so its entirely possible you've forgotten about me
Monty, B&Q stock 2 kinds of plywood. The hardwood stuff is probably the one you want, but its not cheap:
18mm: Untreated Hardwood Plywood (W)607mm (L)1220mm (T)18mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
12mm: Untreated Hardwood Plywood (W)607mm (L)1220mm (T)12mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
The alternative is the softwood ply, which I've used previously. Its not bad, but not as nice as the hardwood one.
B&Q Untreated Plywood (W)2.44m (L)1.22m (T)12mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
Last time I wanted something doing, I think they were cutting 18mm stuff doubled up.
Anyway, I know its expensive, but it takes out quite a bit of the work. Just make sure you plan your cutsheet before walking in.
Chris
The MA 10 requires an exceptionally deep recess of 12mm deep. Since this vendor sells 12mm, the easy way out here it to make at least the front baffles from two layers of 12mm laminated together, or 12mm glued to 18mm. Cut the larger circle for the baffle ring first with a jigsaw.
I should note that "some assembly is required" in that the driver's decorative ring must be glued on by the purchaser, though not everyone uses it.
Most of us that have been doing this a while use a router and Jasper jig (or homemade equivalent) to rout circular recesses. google it...
Thanks to the internet, trying to find consensus on "best" of anything will yield nothing but cacophony, confusion and confrontation.
For the compact size of enclosure that you're likely to settle on, any number of methods of assembly would be fine, keeping in mind that today's better wood glues are more than up the the duty a domestic loudspeaker should encounter.
I'd opine that most important factor would be clean square cuts for glue surface edges. I've built dozens of pairs of smaller speakers with butt or dadoed joints and clamping only. If in a hurry I may blast in a couple of brads with an air powered nailer to allow gentle handling while glue is still curing, then throw some clamps on each stage.
I believe the mass loading that Greg and Dave are referring to is accomplished by coupling the driver - of which in the size range under consideration here, the bulk of mass is contained in the magnetic assembly - to the rear and or side / top bottom panels. The latter is certainly the case in many of Dave's enclosure designs, of which I've built hundreds.
Then of course, there's the approach of mounting by way of yoke/cradle at magnet assembly, with only a minimal seal to baffle at perimeter of driver frame - very commonly seen in Open Baffle configurations. A bit more work, and something I've never really tried.
For the compact size of enclosure that you're likely to settle on, any number of methods of assembly would be fine, keeping in mind that today's better wood glues are more than up the the duty a domestic loudspeaker should encounter.
I'd opine that most important factor would be clean square cuts for glue surface edges. I've built dozens of pairs of smaller speakers with butt or dadoed joints and clamping only. If in a hurry I may blast in a couple of brads with an air powered nailer to allow gentle handling while glue is still curing, then throw some clamps on each stage.
I believe the mass loading that Greg and Dave are referring to is accomplished by coupling the driver - of which in the size range under consideration here, the bulk of mass is contained in the magnetic assembly - to the rear and or side / top bottom panels. The latter is certainly the case in many of Dave's enclosure designs, of which I've built hundreds.
Then of course, there's the approach of mounting by way of yoke/cradle at magnet assembly, with only a minimal seal to baffle at perimeter of driver frame - very commonly seen in Open Baffle configurations. A bit more work, and something I've never really tried.
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So let's say I use a vertical brace to support the back of the driver, would it be best to mount it off-centre? Could I use cheaper 18mm MDF for the brace? How would I adjust it so it's pressing against to the back of the driver just enough?
Also, how do I seal the driver against the baffle when using this method?
What sort of clamps would I use to clamp the wood at a 90 degree angle? Could I reinforce the cabinet with a few screws?
Thanks again for your patience!
Also, how do I seal the driver against the baffle when using this method?
What sort of clamps would I use to clamp the wood at a 90 degree angle? Could I reinforce the cabinet with a few screws?
Thanks again for your patience!
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