Based on an August 1999 _Consumer Report_ article I've kept, Krazy Glue: Instant Wood Formula, Super Glue: Future Glue High Performance, and Loctite: Brush-On Instant Wood Glue are supposed to be good with wood or plastic. I don't know what peoples experiences are with cyanoacrylates in your type of application, but you might do a test with one of the above.
*EDIT*
Also, note this article rates equally well (for wood or plastic), the two following polymerizing glues:
Gorilla Glue (polyurethane)
Elmer's Probond Polyurethane Glue
(The first group dries clear, the second group tan.)
JF
*EDIT*
Also, note this article rates equally well (for wood or plastic), the two following polymerizing glues:
Gorilla Glue (polyurethane)
Elmer's Probond Polyurethane Glue
(The first group dries clear, the second group tan.)
JF
We use RooGlue clear in the shop. Should be able to get it at a large lumberstore or magazine order it.
http://www.rooglue.com/rooclear.html
The clean-up is pretty nasty(at least in comparison to wood glue).
http://www.rooglue.com/rooclear.html
The clean-up is pretty nasty(at least in comparison to wood glue).
C.A. - Cyanoacrylate - (A.k.a.- "Superglue", "Krazy Glue")
But get one that has a thicker, syrup consistancy.
Thinner CA tends to crust up a bit.
To cure it faster - spray water on it soon after applying, maybe with an old windex bottle etc. this will turn it over (activator).
The wood will already have a bit of water in it, but the PVC won't.
Don't touch with fingers, it will bond them insantly - since it cures with water, and the sweat will kick it over.
Hot melt also works well, just etch (or crosshatch) the PVC a bit with a utilty knife first.
Household Goop works well too, and will survive lower temperatures...
-Jayson-
But get one that has a thicker, syrup consistancy.
Thinner CA tends to crust up a bit.
To cure it faster - spray water on it soon after applying, maybe with an old windex bottle etc. this will turn it over (activator).
The wood will already have a bit of water in it, but the PVC won't.
Don't touch with fingers, it will bond them insantly - since it cures with water, and the sweat will kick it over.
Hot melt also works well, just etch (or crosshatch) the PVC a bit with a utilty knife first.
Household Goop works well too, and will survive lower temperatures...
-Jayson-
Water-based CP-Moyen 1032 Black (rubber).
No smell, cures with air in about 1/2 hour for moving, 24hours full cure.
Home Depot sells "Spray 90", 3M contact type.
Spray on mat'l, spray on cabinet, good coat on both, wait 5-min.
Set.
Pretty smell though (solvent based)
-Jayson-
No smell, cures with air in about 1/2 hour for moving, 24hours full cure.
Home Depot sells "Spray 90", 3M contact type.
Spray on mat'l, spray on cabinet, good coat on both, wait 5-min.
Set.
Pretty smell though (solvent based)
-Jayson-
Water-based CP-Moyen 1032 Black (rubber).
Where would I get that?
masterp2 said:Awesome, but any thoughts on what that will do to my driver surrounds?
CP Moyen is based out of Chicago (I am 87% sure).
Yes. Nothing. Since it is water based, there is no harmful outgassing during or post cure.
Best to allow the Spray 90 (solvent based) to cure for a couple of days though because it does outgas during and prior to cure for a while, (heavier than air). If you can put a fan nearby...it won't bother people as much.
I hope I am following along correctly, it takes me a while to type stuff in...
-Jayson-
masterp2 said:I want to bond 30# roofing felt to MDF (resonance damping). But the felt is a challenge as it seems a little oily or tarry. Suggestions????
Since "oily or tarry", you might have to use a mechanical mount instead of adhesive. I know you probably don't want extra "things" like this in the cabinet...but if secure might be better in short (less frustrating) and long (solid, not affected by air flow) runs.
-J-
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