what works for me for mylar is the polyurethane to make concrete watertight it is really thin, it does have a long drying time but when it is, it is stuck, it will dry out to a very thin fil like the quads did. tacky strength is not that great but creep seems to be very good.
also nice is it comes in liters for 12 euro or so
for wires cyanacrylate or polyurethane 2 component or epoxy works great
also nice is it comes in liters for 12 euro or so
for wires cyanacrylate or polyurethane 2 component or epoxy works great
LePages has a water based latex contact called Prestite Green, very easy to use very strong, a mylar diaphragm will never slip but it can be pealed off if necessary. non toxic.
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/CEMENT-CNTCT-GRN-PRE-TITE-237-ML/_/R-LPG1505670
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/CEMENT-CNTCT-GRN-PRE-TITE-237-ML/_/R-LPG1505670
this is the same as the 3M 30NF works like a charm to, but i think it has to be aplied on two 2 sides ? wich makes it harder to use.
I built all my panels with it found it supper simple and very forgiving. You can lay the diaphragm ( with adhesive applied) onto the stator and if you did not position it correctly just lift it up and re position. To make the adhesive grab I would emboss the glue line with a paint brush handle (no sharp edges). Once you do that the diaphragm is stuck in place for good. I especially like that it is totally non toxic. So many adhesives do not work as well and are dangerous to use.3M have a non latex based contact forget the number it is much stronger in that you will destroy a diaphragm attempting to get it off so no real advantage plus it costs more and uses a toxic solvent.
but your way only works with heat stretch , not if you want to have a high resonance panel like the quads. you have to stretch them almost to breaking point. wich is hard by hand like that. and really hard to have control over
Yes I was using the same heat shrink diaphragm materials as Acoustat though with an assortment of film thicknesses. If you want to use a stretching jig as Quad did then you need to drop the stator down onto the stretched diaphragm when it is on the stretching jig then apply pressure to the glue line. The solvent based 3M product would have immediate and instant grip but your alignment needs to be exact because there is no second chance. So with a tensioned diaphragm you will need some sturdy well aligned jigs. moray james.
yeah or used other glue i think they used polyurethane , but on the other hand that might have been to slow curing for production. cant wait 24 hours
they could have been using isntant bonding glue, the problem with the contact cement is that i need a good press all over the glue line. pressing on the frame itself is not enough i think, a roller does a better job, but that would result in glueing the frame from the bottom, witch makes everything a bit harder as it already is i know they glued from the top so my guess is they did not use tacky glue like contact cement.
i think they used polyurethane , but on the other hand that might have been to slow curing for production. cant wait 24 hours they could have been using isntant bonding glue, the problem with the contact cement is that i need a good press all over the glue line. pressing on the frame itself is not enough i think, a roller does a better job, but that would result in glueing the frame from the bottom, witch makes everything a bit harder as it already is
i know they glued from the top so my guess is they did not use tacky glue like contact cement.
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