You should be. Looks great!
Your unit is completley covered, no open holes, the back panel is neat and clean.
One point for humor. UL doesn't allow holes in the bottom of most electrical appliances. Not all, just most. The reason is so that molten stuff doesn't fall out the bottom should it catch on fire. Not an issue for your unit.
Your unit is completley covered, no open holes, the back panel is neat and clean.
One point for humor. UL doesn't allow holes in the bottom of most electrical appliances. Not all, just most. The reason is so that molten stuff doesn't fall out the bottom should it catch on fire. Not an issue for your unit.
Nuuk
I made some other knobs, for very old detector (crystal) receivers and for this revox M40 stereo amp:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Franz
a few minor additions for mike's great post:
-6- in canada the equivalent to UL is CSA.
-8- this can be emphasized. cheap, poor crimpers are common, and so is poor technique. it wouldn't be a bad idea to suggest the beginner should make a handful of test crimps screwed to the bench to test for both. it can be hard to get a good grip inside your amp.
-7- it's common to see electrical tape ends kept stuck down with a daub of pvc cement or crazy glue. it works, i've never seen it fail, BUT i've unaware of any norms that have tested this or allowed it. the summarized version of this thread should probably emphasize using rated heatshrink not tape.
for the off-topic portion: nuuk, have you got a good technique or link for centering homemade resin knobs? it'd also be nice to figure out how to use the side-screw brass inserts.
-6- in canada the equivalent to UL is CSA.
-8- this can be emphasized. cheap, poor crimpers are common, and so is poor technique. it wouldn't be a bad idea to suggest the beginner should make a handful of test crimps screwed to the bench to test for both. it can be hard to get a good grip inside your amp.
-7- it's common to see electrical tape ends kept stuck down with a daub of pvc cement or crazy glue. it works, i've never seen it fail, BUT i've unaware of any norms that have tested this or allowed it. the summarized version of this thread should probably emphasize using rated heatshrink not tape.
for the off-topic portion: nuuk, have you got a good technique or link for centering homemade resin knobs? it'd also be nice to figure out how to use the side-screw brass inserts.
I'm not sure if we shouldn't find another thread for this but here goes!
The problem of centering the sharfts is the stumbling block as far as I can see. Without building an accurate jig, this is almost impossible and why I have stayed with making wooden knobs as described on my site.
I am currently thinking of asking a friend with a lathe to turn me some acrylic knobs but perhaps Franz can tell us how he made those knobs in the pictures!
Sorry, I cannot describe the complete process to build replica knobs, as I learned it by try and error.
If the head of the knob is flat, then I don't have a problem to drill the hole exactly centered.
If the head is not flat, then a self made jig is needed.
For the screw: if the M4 screw is more than 8mm long, then you drill a 3.2mm hole and cut direct in the epoxy an M4 for the screw. No need for a metal insert.
Franz
If the head of the knob is flat, then I don't have a problem to drill the hole exactly centered.
If the head is not flat, then a self made jig is needed.
For the screw: if the M4 screw is more than 8mm long, then you drill a 3.2mm hole and cut direct in the epoxy an M4 for the screw. No need for a metal insert.
Franz
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