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Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic

planet10 said:


http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic

There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.

dave

Hi Dave
There is indeed a chunk of fairly rigid medium density foam covering the holes.
I have also since plugged the holes with individual pieces of foam.

Thanks again for this project which has really shown that DIY speakers are a reality, even for those of us that have little experience.

I have a pair of PMC TB2S-A Monitors that need a sub.
I can't afford the asking price, So i think i'll have a go at your take on the dual 6.5"
Transmission line sub is my next project using twin CSS SDX7's.

there was a good discussion here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98478&highlight=

Cheers

Luke
 
mFonkens and DIYParadise Charlize

I finally for some nice photos taken of my speakers and amp, so here they are. This is my first DIY audio project, I love the results.

uFonkens from solid french oak, super high quality custom plywood enclosure for the amp, hoho.

133917_xUpzEiB2vUj46HcraTFYyAucu.jpg


133917_45lomA2Oy1VHdBg_4RZY2w6ER.jpg


133917_Jux4u35IdoB2VFuyhvQ3hOpei.jpg



133917_d8j6DAXDWTChrQefL2zXLSgiB.jpg




Whatcha think?
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Re: uFonkens and DIYParadise Charlize

st_eloi said:
uFonkens from solid french oak, super high quality custom plywood enclosure for the amp, hoho.

Whatcha think?

I'll echo Inrank... uFonken are stunning (can i use the pitures?)

Everything else will likely sound better if you get some RF shielding inside the amp case.

How are you enjoying the sound?

dave
 
Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic

planet10 said:


http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic

There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.

dave

Thank you.

I find the aperiodic boxes interesting, since they are obviously space saving without sacrificing too much bass output compared to a closed cabinet tuning. But finding good design rules for such vents are difficult. Seems to be based a lot on trial and error.
 
cervelorider said:
Minwax antique oil finish (red can) followed by Miniwax finishing wax. Easy and inexpensive. Creates an extremely even finish on Birch IMO. I used 00 steel wool to apply the wax and then buffed with a terry cloth towel.


Any ideas on how I can apply a dark redish finish to light colored hard maple which will still allow the grain to be seen? Maple is nearly impossible to stain because of the tight grain. I figure a successful 'staining' would probably be more like applying a surface coat of stain the same way one would spray paint (not touch after spraying on) to let dry and then follow with clearcoats.
 
rcavictim said:



Any ideas on how I can apply a dark redish finish to light colored hard maple which will still allow the grain to be seen? Maple is nearly impossible to stain because of the tight grain. I figure a successful 'staining' would probably be more like applying a surface coat of stain the same way one would spray paint (not touch after spraying on) to let dry and then follow with clearcoats.


Experiment on scraps with seal coat of shellac (if your target finish is dark anyway, you could use natural orange shellac), or something like Minwax Pre-Stain conditioner

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


just be sure to use product compatible with your finishing materials - i.e. don't mix water based and oil or alcohol based products

practice if you plan to spray stain - flat panels are one thing, but controlling shadowing / overspray around the corners of a rectangular shaped box is another