Probably a noob question but what is a WAW? The vinyl was quite easy since it is the stuff used for wrapping vehicles, the adhesive doesn't grab too much until it is pressed on hard and any air bubbles push right out. Expensive but worth looking out for roll ends which I what I used.
English please:
I wonder if this link works properly...
fane15_1.jpg - Google Drive
Simple design OB, cut a full sheet of 18mm plywood in to 4 pieces, glue them in to a pair of them and install 15 inch Fane full-range drivers. And you end up with pair of huge OB-speakers. The measurements are roughly 1200x 600x 38mm.
How do they sound you might ask? If I had to describe them in one word, loud! To be more specific, yes they are loud, but there is also very much of that fullrange-driver goodness in them. For comparison, I have a pair of 0.53x Karlsons with Dayton audio PA130-drivers, these Fane-speakers are much louder than those tiny Karlsons in their enclousures. And I prefer those Fane drivers very much when it comes to sound quality.
I play music on my Windows10 computer, which sends the signal to the Behringer umc404hd audiointerface, next in the line is the tiny 6J1-based tube pre-amp by FX-audio and final link in the system is a Behringer A800 amplifier.
fane15_1.jpg - Google Drive
Simple design OB, cut a full sheet of 18mm plywood in to 4 pieces, glue them in to a pair of them and install 15 inch Fane full-range drivers. And you end up with pair of huge OB-speakers. The measurements are roughly 1200x 600x 38mm.
How do they sound you might ask? If I had to describe them in one word, loud! To be more specific, yes they are loud, but there is also very much of that fullrange-driver goodness in them. For comparison, I have a pair of 0.53x Karlsons with Dayton audio PA130-drivers, these Fane-speakers are much louder than those tiny Karlsons in their enclousures. And I prefer those Fane drivers very much when it comes to sound quality.
I play music on my Windows10 computer, which sends the signal to the Behringer umc404hd audiointerface, next in the line is the tiny 6J1-based tube pre-amp by FX-audio and final link in the system is a Behringer A800 amplifier.
Full Range Cabinet & Driver
The cabinet is a 20" x 15" x 47" bass reflex design made from sapele mahogany, leather and brass, tuned to about 30Hz. It's hard to see it in the image, but the base is isolated from the cabinet with brass risers.
The driver is a handmade 10" field coil driver I've designed over the past several years. It has hosho washi cones and formers, lambskin leather surrounds and an aluminum and brass frame.
The cabinet is a 20" x 15" x 47" bass reflex design made from sapele mahogany, leather and brass, tuned to about 30Hz. It's hard to see it in the image, but the base is isolated from the cabinet with brass risers.
The driver is a handmade 10" field coil driver I've designed over the past several years. It has hosho washi cones and formers, lambskin leather surrounds and an aluminum and brass frame.
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Wowww Gomper looks absolutely gorgeous, cabinet is very elegant and well finished, but what is more impressive is that you build also the driver? Can you share some information on how to build a personal driver....all the best
Wow. This is super cool. I know it's the photo gallery, but would you mind a couple of words (or better a link) to a description of your field coil power supply?
Thanks very much, guys. Sure, I'm happy to share more about the driver. I've been meaning to start a thread on diyAudio for a long time now about it, and generally the design and completion of the entire loudspeaker - the cabinet and simple circuitry as well. We're all stuck indoors waiting for the pandemic to end, and I have time on my hands... I'll put up a first post today and post a link here for anyone who's interested in the work.
Dave, thank you for the kind words and feedback. You mentioned that the speaker may benefit from the cabinet being tuned lower - were you considering a bit of a smoother roll-off on the low end? I'd love to hear what your full thought was there - that's just the sort of comment I'm always looking for.
In the mean time here are a few more images - two of the drivers taken on my phone this morning, and one of the back of the speaker cabinet. The drivers are showing some dust and fingerprints today, I need to clean them up a bit better... Anyway, that black panel near the top of the cabinet provides service access to the driver, and the brass panel at the bottom has 5-way binding posts and an XLR (neutrik) connector for power to the field coil. Power supply is 12VDC, which delivers great results for this design and doesn't push the motor to overheat.
More soon - I'll try to post a link to the new thread today.
- Ken
Dave, thank you for the kind words and feedback. You mentioned that the speaker may benefit from the cabinet being tuned lower - were you considering a bit of a smoother roll-off on the low end? I'd love to hear what your full thought was there - that's just the sort of comment I'm always looking for.
In the mean time here are a few more images - two of the drivers taken on my phone this morning, and one of the back of the speaker cabinet. The drivers are showing some dust and fingerprints today, I need to clean them up a bit better... Anyway, that black panel near the top of the cabinet provides service access to the driver, and the brass panel at the bottom has 5-way binding posts and an XLR (neutrik) connector for power to the field coil. Power supply is 12VDC, which delivers great results for this design and doesn't push the motor to overheat.
More soon - I'll try to post a link to the new thread today.
- Ken
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Gorgeous driver, well done. (Just missing the spots :^)
As to the box, when i am looking to get a box of this nature right, i email Scott (Woden Design). He is often so quick because of vast experience that it likely often takes me as long to compose an email as he takes getting the sim right.
By their nature, ML-TLs are tuned lower than a similar volume BR, the bass is more tuneful and more tolerant of dynamic changes in T/S. A slower more gradual roll-off typically matches with real rooms better.
With the field coil you also have another variable. Changes in the FC supply voltage gives you variable T/S parameters.
dave
As to the box, when i am looking to get a box of this nature right, i email Scott (Woden Design). He is often so quick because of vast experience that it likely often takes me as long to compose an email as he takes getting the sim right.
By their nature, ML-TLs are tuned lower than a similar volume BR, the bass is more tuneful and more tolerant of dynamic changes in T/S. A slower more gradual roll-off typically matches with real rooms better.
With the field coil you also have another variable. Changes in the FC supply voltage gives you variable T/S parameters.
dave
Ken your drivers are stunning looking! Does the black phase plug unscrew out so that other types of phase plugs can be used? If so I'd love to try a pair of these in my Beauhorn Virtuoso cabinets in place of my Lowther PM5A drivers!
Thetubeguy1954
Thanks so much, guys.
Hi Tom - yes, the phase plugs do unscrew and can be swapped out. I'm glad to hear you'd like to try them in such a magnificent cabinet as the Beauhorn Virtuoso. If you'd like to look at some specs and T/S params for the driver, I've been working on getting a decent website presence going, and you can learn more about it here:
https://www.songeraudio.com/products/driver
I think the 11" diameter may be a bit too big for your cabinets? Feel free to send me a PM and we can chat about it.
Hi Tom - yes, the phase plugs do unscrew and can be swapped out. I'm glad to hear you'd like to try them in such a magnificent cabinet as the Beauhorn Virtuoso. If you'd like to look at some specs and T/S params for the driver, I've been working on getting a decent website presence going, and you can learn more about it here:
https://www.songeraudio.com/products/driver
I think the 11" diameter may be a bit too big for your cabinets? Feel free to send me a PM and we can chat about it.
my first diy omni
this is my first "proof of concept" from something i have had kicking around in my head for a very long time...
they incorporate the faital 3fe25 with ferro magnets, and 80mm crystal balls for diffusors or reflectors.
don't look to carefully, they are just fitted together to test and will be taken apart and reassembled to more accurate presentation.
as for sound, i have a nasty peak at about 2khz, and i use a graphic equalizer to tame that problem, with that peak tamed they do a really good job with vocals and string instruments so long as it is above about 180 hz or so, with a bit of eq boost they do well down to a bit under 100hz... that is if i don't go over about 80db spl at my listening seat.
i rarely listen at over 65db anyway, so they do a good job
just to get an idea of what they might do in a 2.1 with a sub to cross at around 150hz or so, i paired them with my JBL 150as which have all the low notes i want to listen to... paired with them they do a really nice job in the upper registers and where they take from the jbl's down low, they make up for by giving back to the JBLs in the over 5khz range.
the omni directional nature of the little boogers, make for interesting listening, i don't notice the nulls and peaks moving about the room with them like i do with the JBLs
granted my JBLs are no where near what some audio guy's would call "reference" but they be the best i have to compare to, at least in an A/B test
bob g
ps. they stand about 12" tall and about 6.5" wide
this is my first "proof of concept" from something i have had kicking around in my head for a very long time...
they incorporate the faital 3fe25 with ferro magnets, and 80mm crystal balls for diffusors or reflectors.
don't look to carefully, they are just fitted together to test and will be taken apart and reassembled to more accurate presentation.
as for sound, i have a nasty peak at about 2khz, and i use a graphic equalizer to tame that problem, with that peak tamed they do a really good job with vocals and string instruments so long as it is above about 180 hz or so, with a bit of eq boost they do well down to a bit under 100hz... that is if i don't go over about 80db spl at my listening seat.
i rarely listen at over 65db anyway, so they do a good job
just to get an idea of what they might do in a 2.1 with a sub to cross at around 150hz or so, i paired them with my JBL 150as which have all the low notes i want to listen to... paired with them they do a really nice job in the upper registers and where they take from the jbl's down low, they make up for by giving back to the JBLs in the over 5khz range.
the omni directional nature of the little boogers, make for interesting listening, i don't notice the nulls and peaks moving about the room with them like i do with the JBLs
granted my JBLs are no where near what some audio guy's would call "reference" but they be the best i have to compare to, at least in an A/B test
bob g
ps. they stand about 12" tall and about 6.5" wide
Attachments
Mark Audio MAOP waw
Lockdown build with recycled wood and drivers. Mark audio MAOP 7 fullrange in 7 litres sealed. 12" in about 27 litres with craptonnes of LT eq. 450Hz xover. Fine for my requirements. Mostly rimu hardwood. Fully joint project with my 4 year old. Lots of hand sawing and planing.
Lockdown build with recycled wood and drivers. Mark audio MAOP 7 fullrange in 7 litres sealed. 12" in about 27 litres with craptonnes of LT eq. 450Hz xover. Fine for my requirements. Mostly rimu hardwood. Fully joint project with my 4 year old. Lots of hand sawing and planing.
