Full Range Home Theater

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At the risk of dead-horse flogging, in pre-DD/DTS days a centre was definitely optional. After all, pro-logic did all that nasty phase-crunching to produce centre and surround channels from the original stereo(ish) tracks. So no argument there. However now that discrete channel information can be recorded I think it deserves to be reproduced (not mixed back into stereo LR).

Rather than kids with pop-corn, my main worry is losing the cat into my speakers. At least with the current BLHs he cant get too far in

C:D
 
frugal-phile™
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Bluerex said:
Ok, been reading up on the Fonkens and they look like a likely centre candidate (although still interested in a horn of some description), any problem in centering the driver on the baffle so it doesn't look odd lying on it's side?

Charles

No problem with centering the driver... there is a problem with lying it on its side. The big champhers need to be on the sides (as well as the narrow dimension needs to be up/down

Look at building the mFonken (or if you want something a bit bigger, push me to get deci- & centiFonken done.

dave
 
planet10 said:

Look at building the mFonken (or if you want something a bit bigger, push me to get deci- & centiFonken done.
dave

I think it's worth waiting for Dave to sort out his deciFonken. The regular Fonken at 13L is a large box for a centre channel when it's placement might have to fight with the TV or other equipment. The mFonken is a better size but for HT I want the cut-off to safely go down to 80Hz and I'm not convinced that the mFonken will do that adequately for my ears.

I created a 6L Onken style box around the FE127 which is small enough for me to use as a centre, and rear surrounds and for sure reaches down to 80Hz. See: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=138195
 
Anyone using Lowther speakers for HT ?
From what i have read about them they seem to be the best fullrange speakers out there.
They seem pretty interesting for a good quality HT.... expensive though

Are there any "free" bass reflex designs out there using Lowther's that i can take a look at ?
The only ones i can find are on their own site and i'd have to pay for the designs.
The rest is all horn designs wich are too big for me.

Anyone have any input on using Lowther for HT ?
 
I think it's to do with the electro-mechanical properties of the Lowther drivers being better suited to certain ways of use.

I notice that many people who use Lowthers do so because of extremely high sensitivity making them suitable for tube amps and this isn't your typical HT set-up.

My experience is limited to the Fostex, but I really can't find any fault with them. Actually, the Moon-Onkens are so darn nice (to my ears) that I am struggling to find any reason not to build another 3 of them to complete my HT set up. I was hoping to find an excuse to build a floorstander incorporating a woofer, but it makes no sense for HT where a sub will be employed anyway. I have a gorgeous design waiting for my floorstander when I have a good excuse though!
 
In fairness, I was a little OTT -you can use them in a BR or MLTL -Martin & Bob do just that (well, the latter at any rate) but you'll need to apply some fairly heavy correction if you want a reasonably balanced sound from them. That will reduce their sensitivity somewhat (unless you use active Eq), and is something you'd have to keep in mind if you have a very low-power amp & were counting on their efficiency to make them a viable option.
 
Bob Brines said:
It's almost a trivial build .
Bob


This is a sobering reminder that as much as I credit myself with producing a speaker that I like, my contribution is small compared to that of the design & manufacture of the Fostex driver. Much of speaker design is old-hat, improvements in recent times coming from the availability of better simulation tools and materials but we would be kidding ourselves if we didn't recognize the huge improvements made to driver technology and the relatively low cost they represent.

I think it puts more onus on us to be more imaginative with the aesthetics of our speakers, this is where the DIY'er should be able to do well (subject to wood working skills of course).
 
frugal-phile™
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Scottmoose said:
That will reduce their sensitivity somewhat (unless you use active Eq),

Except for the more reactive load with a passive filter on the amplifier, active EQ gets you to the same place as far as amplifier power is concerned.... EQ of either sort lowers the effective efficiency to that of the lowest part of the curve.

dave
 
Expanding a bit on what Dave said, the limiting factor on ultimate SPL is the Xmax of the driver. Whether you cut the treble (passive) or boost the bass (active) you will arrive at Xmax at the same power level and the ultimate SPL will be the same. The advantage of active EQ over passive is that you can be much more precise.

Bob
 
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