I don't know the particulars, but one example of this idea is the 'Fix' circuit that was sold by BottleHead a few years back. Pretty cool concept really. You can't boost without active circuitry but you can cut say in the mid frequencies to allow a flatter response in the end. This can of course be a choice made by the filter design itself, and IIRC the Fix allowed up to a 4 dB compensation. It works at least as well as actively amplifying/equalizing the signal as a comparison of choice.
I down loaded graphs for the drivers I would like to try and from the information in Papa's article should have no trouble getting close on my own. You even get the bonus of making an order to digikey.com or Mouser with your own BOM. None of the caps or resistors that you may want to tweak are expensive so go ahead and order a range of values.
I just completed a build on this project for a pair of 8" FR based on Dayton PS-220, with a Beston circular ribbon tweeter crossed at 8khz. Unusually for me, when I turned it on, it worked flawlessly—I think.
I wanted it to be pretty adjustable, so I used a Grayhill 12-position, 4-deck for R3 and R5 values, and an other multi-multi switch for the capacitors. Also used a 100k pot on the back panel instead of the board-mounted trimmers, which seems to set the range for the resistor switch. Lots of fiddly soldering and doubling up some resistors to make up the odd values for the 12-step. Really couldn't cram anything more into this little box. Sounds good and seems to do exactly what it's supposed to do, although I have a lot of listening to do to get the speakers dialed in.
I wanted it to be pretty adjustable, so I used a Grayhill 12-position, 4-deck for R3 and R5 values, and an other multi-multi switch for the capacitors. Also used a 100k pot on the back panel instead of the board-mounted trimmers, which seems to set the range for the resistor switch. Lots of fiddly soldering and doubling up some resistors to make up the odd values for the 12-step. Really couldn't cram anything more into this little box. Sounds good and seems to do exactly what it's supposed to do, although I have a lot of listening to do to get the speakers dialed in.
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Hello Gents,
Let me start with an apology for my newb question. I just got the kit delivered yesterday and to my dismay, it didn't come with a parts list to order everything I need to complete the EQ.
I have ZERO electrical engineering skills/knowlege, but I can follow instructions and I am a soldering fool.
I have perused through all 14 pages of this thread looking for anything to help compile a parts list and have come up with a few items that I can order through Digikey, (thank you Mr. Pass) as well as a few recommendations specific to Mark Audio drivers. (although not the Pluvia 7HDs which I have)
I recently finished building Pensil enclosures for my Mark Audio driver cones and I am blown away with the results. I have been an audio engineer / integrator and installer for over 30 years, and these are by far the best sounding speakers I have ever owned. That being said, there is a hint of lower high frequency harshness that I find a touch fatiguing, and lets face it, a 4" full range driver can always use some help in the low register. Even with the fantastic tuning of the Pensil enclosures.
All that to ask, have I missed something and there is a parts list somewhere that I haven't found? Or do I just lack the electrical engineering ability to come up with a parts list based on the information in the accompanying PDF provided by Mr. Pass?
I really appreciate all of the info this community shares so freely and I sincerely hope I can glean enough to build the rest of the equipment I integrate into my system as I continue along my audiophile journey.
🙏
Let me start with an apology for my newb question. I just got the kit delivered yesterday and to my dismay, it didn't come with a parts list to order everything I need to complete the EQ.
I have ZERO electrical engineering skills/knowlege, but I can follow instructions and I am a soldering fool.
I have perused through all 14 pages of this thread looking for anything to help compile a parts list and have come up with a few items that I can order through Digikey, (thank you Mr. Pass) as well as a few recommendations specific to Mark Audio drivers. (although not the Pluvia 7HDs which I have)
I recently finished building Pensil enclosures for my Mark Audio driver cones and I am blown away with the results. I have been an audio engineer / integrator and installer for over 30 years, and these are by far the best sounding speakers I have ever owned. That being said, there is a hint of lower high frequency harshness that I find a touch fatiguing, and lets face it, a 4" full range driver can always use some help in the low register. Even with the fantastic tuning of the Pensil enclosures.
All that to ask, have I missed something and there is a parts list somewhere that I haven't found? Or do I just lack the electrical engineering ability to come up with a parts list based on the information in the accompanying PDF provided by Mr. Pass?
I really appreciate all of the info this community shares so freely and I sincerely hope I can glean enough to build the rest of the equipment I integrate into my system as I continue along my audiophile journey.
🙏
Ok, I think I may know why I’m so confused. Am I correct in thinking that if I was able to open the BOM, I would be able to see the parts list?
I am unfortunately one of those, all computing equipment I own is made by Apple, guys.
That being said, if anyone sees this and can give me a list of the parts I need to complete this kit, I would be eternally grateful 🙏🏻
I will try to borrow a Windows machine and see if I can get to it myself in the meantime.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer!
I am unfortunately one of those, all computing equipment I own is made by Apple, guys.
That being said, if anyone sees this and can give me a list of the parts I need to complete this kit, I would be eternally grateful 🙏🏻
I will try to borrow a Windows machine and see if I can get to it myself in the meantime.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer!
I'm using a Mac and I can open the linked pdf with the schematic on the first page. There appears to be only about 20 different parts. You could jot those down in a minute. Then go to Digikey and do a search (this is a useful easy skill you can use over and over with DIY) for the parts. There doesn't appear to be anything exotic so all this is maybe 30 minutes of your time if you are new to Digikey searching.
Alright, I lied. I'm still struggling. Sorry guys. The BOM file I was able to open was for a tube amp I was looking at. I can't figure out where to get the file for this project. I do't see any downloads on the DiyStore and the .CIR will not open without MicroCap. If I open the file in text edit, I can see the lines of code, but none of it makes any sense to me. Could someone please direct me to the BOM? I'm really not sure why I'm having such a hard time with this. I can't remember the last time I struggled this much with anything. Thank you!
I got lucky and bought essentials kit from the first round. Built it quickly and it hasn't been out of my system since. As far as I know, there isn't a BOM readily available in a neat formatted form. Nelson did lay out the information you need in a post fairly early on (hint: Post 62). With that info and a bit of time on the search learning curve at Digikey, you should be good. As long as you get the essentials kit from (available), not the PC board only (not currently available) it's a good beginner's project if you don't attempt to modify it early on. It is very flexible with parts substitutions as mentioned in the article, but give yourself a good amount experience using the presented configuration first.
As soon as I read Mr. Pass’s post about the completion kit, I reached out to see if it might be available, but no luck. They actually made it sound as though there wasn’t even a plan to restock. Could have just been my impression. I wrote down all of the details in post 62 and added those items to a cart at Digikey, but I wasn’t able to decipher all of the values of the resistors and I couldn’t figure out what the power supply caps were.
I did manage to get MicroCap running on an old Microsoft Surface I hadn’t powered on in five years. I’m able to load the .CIR, but I haven’t figured out how to use the software yet so I’m not sure how to see the parts that are actually part of the circuit.
Thank you for the hint! Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏🏻
I did manage to get MicroCap running on an old Microsoft Surface I hadn’t powered on in five years. I’m able to load the .CIR, but I haven’t figured out how to use the software yet so I’m not sure how to see the parts that are actually part of the circuit.
Thank you for the hint! Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏🏻
I am so glad you had this problem and asked about it here. Very grateful to you and those that helped you. I did the same exact thing 🤦🏻♂️
47.5 ohm resistors ordered 🙏🏻
@otherwillsmith Welcome. I dipped out of the SoCal LV scene about 30 years ago... still in the game but rarely touch AV these days.
I just wanted to second the notion of using search on Digikey to familiarize yourself. It definitely is not Google and broad keyword searches are less helpful. Sometimes keyword searching digikey or Mouser via Google pays dividends though.
Good luck and enjoy.
Oh, does Renaissance Sound Design ring a bell by chance?
I just wanted to second the notion of using search on Digikey to familiarize yourself. It definitely is not Google and broad keyword searches are less helpful. Sometimes keyword searching digikey or Mouser via Google pays dividends though.
Good luck and enjoy.
Oh, does Renaissance Sound Design ring a bell by chance?
I'm now about to construct and assemble a second board and am installing little sockets to make changes easy on R3, C3, and C4. The article and the graphs make sense to me on the values for R3, but I'm a bit confused on C3-C4. Following the schematic building my first board (built to design) with 470pf FKP2 caps. reading further in the article that suggests that 470pf would produce either the highest or lowest of the alternatives shown (2k or 10k center of the HF dip). The graphs seem to show the 5K center dip suggesting 1nf as the C3-C4 value. Some help here would be most welcome. I've gotten the simulator to display and graph the model as provided but haven't gotten the hang of modifying values effectively yet.
I'm also interested to learn if there are any other types of caps (non-boutique) that might be informative to try with less than an absurd size and lead spacing difference.
Thanks, Skip
I'm also interested to learn if there are any other types of caps (non-boutique) that might be informative to try with less than an absurd size and lead spacing difference.
Thanks, Skip
I just received the essentials kit. Currently building some sealed enclosures for the Tang Band W8-2145. Want to give them a listen first and see if my ears can tell me if and where they need help. Did find a place that sells the riser sockets to make trying out different resistors/capacitors easier. https://www.peconnectors.com/female-headers-machined-.100/hws16346/ Not going to order anything more until I listen.
I think the sparse state of the kit is an effort to nudge folks to learn (understand) more on their own.
I think the sparse state of the kit is an effort to nudge folks to learn (understand) more on their own.
