HERE is a small MLTL design I did a few years ago. I don't have any photos because it currently sits at the home media desk of a cousin who is a sound engineer. He said it sounds really good and can't believe I built it out of cheap pine boards. It's a very nice compliment to a guy who spends a lot of time in a mastering suite with lot of big active monitors.
I realize that it won't go as low as you want, but with the right driver, it can be scaled up in size to reach down. I've been working on a new version to match a 4" concentric two way that won't be any larger than about 14"x14"x7".
ensen.
I realize that it won't go as low as you want, but with the right driver, it can be scaled up in size to reach down. I've been working on a new version to match a 4" concentric two way that won't be any larger than about 14"x14"x7".
ensen.planet10 said:
I get what ya mean about the new respect ya would have for them, how hard is it to do? and how much would it cost to get it done?
lol, call me slow, but i only just realized that these are your designs and website... top job mate!
purplepeople said:HERE is a small MLTL design I did a few years ago. I don't have any photos because it currently sits at the home media desk of a cousin who is a sound engineer. He said it sounds really good and can't believe I built it out of cheap pine boards. It's a very nice compliment to a guy who spends a lot of time in a mastering suite with lot of big active monitors.
I realize that it won't go as low as you want, but with the right driver, it can be scaled up in size to reach down. I've been working on a new version to match a 4" concentric two way that won't be any larger than about 14"x14"x7".
Thanks for that. I am actually starting to change my mind, and beginning to realize just how much i was asking for, so a little bit less bass... i can live with.
And yeah, thats one hell of a compliment.
Sorry to be a pain, but was just looking at a few amps/receivers, and remembered what was mentioned about Rotels favoring the CSS drivers.
Are there any main brands that work well with the miniOnken/Fonken (with and without the EnABLed drivers), generally speaking.
Main ones I've seen on ebay have been Rotels, Yamahas, Pioneers and Marantz.
Cheers.
Are there any main brands that work well with the miniOnken/Fonken (with and without the EnABLed drivers), generally speaking.
Main ones I've seen on ebay have been Rotels, Yamahas, Pioneers and Marantz.
Cheers.
planet10 said:
I was looking for a tube amp but don't think would be within my budget.
I am still looking around for tube amps and am reading bout the ones you recomended.
The amps i was looking at before have usually been about 30w @ 8ohms, if i was to go solid state, would something like that do?
Most likely i will go with tube one day, as i like their sound a bit more, but at the moment, doesn't look like it will be for a while, unless theres cheep-ish decent-ish tubes in DIY kits.
Cheers... no problems mate.
If you want to build something yourself, I suggest you build one of Nelson's First Watt amps, or one of his later Zen designs. I've heard the F2 & F4 & used to own a SoZ V6. The F4 will need a high-gain pre-amp or source with adjustable output (like a Squeezebox). The others are a little more forgiving WRT the source. Cost you about £100. Completely flatten everything even vaguely approaching the price, including gainclones & class D amps.
If these frighten you (not that they're complicated -an objective of Nelson's with the Zen's was to encourage people to build amps, & the First Watt amps aren't much more difficult, if any) take a gander at the class D kits / modules from DIYParadise or 41Hz. Or, if you want a plug-in solution, the Kingrex is allegedly the pick of the already-built bunch; at least in the sub $1,000 catagory.
Personally, I've never liked gainclones. Natural inborn vice I suppose.
If these frighten you (not that they're complicated -an objective of Nelson's with the Zen's was to encourage people to build amps, & the First Watt amps aren't much more difficult, if any) take a gander at the class D kits / modules from DIYParadise or 41Hz. Or, if you want a plug-in solution, the Kingrex is allegedly the pick of the already-built bunch; at least in the sub $1,000 catagory.
Personally, I've never liked gainclones. Natural inborn vice I suppose.
planet10 said:
Are these the ones you were on about? wasn't sure, i couldnt find the website.
Scottmoose said:They'd be more than a 'fair bit' better.
Fair enough, lol... i can do the amp itself, the only thing i would question myself over is the power supply (which i can do, i would just be 2nd guessing myself all the time)
I have made a couple of amps before ( a couple of years ago), but were only small el'cheepo for an electronics course.
looked at the F2, if this is the most suited or around about there (for the price), i will try and make these.
If not, heres a heres a link to one i could get my hands on easily.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productVie...&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=557
Couldn't find the LM1875 kit locally, was wondering if this would be a suitable replacement?
Also, what could I make the enclosures out of, because i doubt i could get baltich birch plywood. I could possibly get a list tomorrow of what ply i could get.
Yes.
F2 is great. F1 equally great, sounds a bit sharper which suits some people & slightly trickier build (in relative terms). See the service manuals at www.firstwatt.com for the schematics. Also, the Pass labs section of this forum -they have their own threads & a lot of people who can help out with advice etc., including Nelson himself. No second guessing should be needed. Besides, part of the fun is in trying out something new.
Hmm. No BB. That's a real pain. We're talking Fonken here, right? I'd probably look at using chipboard / particleboard for the sides, top & bottom, with pine (or some other solid-wood) baffles as an alternative, assuming it's been properly aged etc. MDF is generally to be avoided, unless you can increase the thickness to match that of ply, & even then, it has some other potential issues. Dave, Chris? Any thoughts?
F2 is great. F1 equally great, sounds a bit sharper which suits some people & slightly trickier build (in relative terms). See the service manuals at www.firstwatt.com for the schematics. Also, the Pass labs section of this forum -they have their own threads & a lot of people who can help out with advice etc., including Nelson himself. No second guessing should be needed. Besides, part of the fun is in trying out something new.
Hmm. No BB. That's a real pain. We're talking Fonken here, right? I'd probably look at using chipboard / particleboard for the sides, top & bottom, with pine (or some other solid-wood) baffles as an alternative, assuming it's been properly aged etc. MDF is generally to be avoided, unless you can increase the thickness to match that of ply, & even then, it has some other potential issues. Dave, Chris? Any thoughts?
Scottmoose said:
Hi Scottmoose, at the risk of veering off-topic, may I ask you to elaborate on your gainclone experience? Is it more a question of (a) some persistent sonic annoyance, or (b) less persistent, i.e., something ghastly which only pops out on certain recordings, or maybe (c) just a lack of something?
Hi,
I am not a Scottmoose, but as I have also tried a Gainclone (non-inverted, using Lm 3886) and also a Zen V3, F2, and Zen V9, I can tell you that your best bet is to build Zen V1, and later convert it to F2, if you like. F3 is even better, of course.
Compared to Zens, Gainclone sounded more like any typical solid state amplifier: detailed, but cold and uninvolving.
I am not a Scottmoose, but as I have also tried a Gainclone (non-inverted, using Lm 3886) and also a Zen V3, F2, and Zen V9, I can tell you that your best bet is to build Zen V1, and later convert it to F2, if you like. F3 is even better, of course.
Compared to Zens, Gainclone sounded more like any typical solid state amplifier: detailed, but cold and uninvolving.
Scottmoose said:Yes.
F2 is great. F1 equally great, sounds a bit sharper which suits some people & slightly trickier build (in relative terms). See the service manuals at www.firstwatt.com for the schematics. Also, the Pass labs section of this forum -they have their own threads & a lot of people who can help out with advice etc., including Nelson himself. No second guessing should be needed. Besides, part of the fun is in trying out something new.
Hmm. No BB. That's a real pain. We're talking Fonken here, right? I'd probably look at using chipboard / particleboard for the sides, top & bottom, with pine (or some other solid-wood) baffles as an alternative, assuming it's been properly aged etc. MDF is generally to be avoided, unless you can increase the thickness to match that of ply, & even then, it has some other potential issues. Dave, Chris? Any thoughts?
That F2 amp sounds pretty good then, might give it a go.
Didn't realize there was a dedicated part on the forum for them and will definately check it out, could be a great load of help if i need it.
Yup, this is the Fonken.
I've asked on a more local forum if there are any stores that could have it here, just awaiting a reply.
I did however go to the hardware store and check out what they had, and looked like they only had structual, bracing, Marine, and hardwood interior (i think thats them all).
They had chipboard and pine, however i don't think any of it was aged.
rjbond3rd said:
Based on the fact that I've never heard one I've thought was up to much. Every single one I've heard has been flattened in every single area by Nelson's Zen / First Watt amps. From my POV, they're adequate, but little more. Although I dare say there would be a sort of satisfaction when reflecting on that outrageous 47 labs Gaincard, and knowing you've just built a superior version for about 1/20 of the price.
Vix said:
I'd agree with most of that, although I'd question whether the F3 is 'better' than the F2. One is a current source, the other is a voltage source -they have completely different priorities / design objectives, so comparisons are a trifle hit & miss. Depends what you're wanting to do. Personally, I'd just build one of the F amps straight off & have done with it, although I'm weird.
cwujek said:
Be careful about marine ply -I gather it's no longer always void free. That said, neither is the standard birch around these parts, which is pretty much all that's available to me, so YMMV.
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