They are screwed, but I believe that you may try just rest yours over a flat piece of wood with the spikes on it for testing purposes. The target is decoupling the speakers of the floor.
You can also use coins to don't damage he floor. Aim the spikes on it, and keep it as low cost as possible. If you like what you hear, go for a definitive solution!
Not recommending spikes, just trying to offer a "Frugal" version of a spike, if so desired.
I would put them on the lowest denomination of coin available to protect my wood floors too...
doug01n, those look lovely.
John
I would probably use some stick on rubber feet myself, but I have hard surface floors...
like this maybe:50 Non Slip Rubber Protector Pads - Self Adhesive - Will Hold Anything in Place. - - Amazon.com
I would put them on the lowest denomination of coin available to protect my wood floors too...
doug01n, those look lovely.
John
I would probably use some stick on rubber feet myself, but I have hard surface floors...
like this maybe:50 Non Slip Rubber Protector Pads - Self Adhesive - Will Hold Anything in Place. - - Amazon.com
Thanks guys!!! It was made by a friend who has he wood skills needed for such a beautiful finish. I was even trying to change it for a pair of foken or simple bass reflex, but now my wife don't let them go anywhere but the living room. Lol
I don't know the difference in real life, but in theory the results between spikes and felt/rubber spacers are different. The spikes will really lock the speaker in place, while the rubber feet may flex, damping the micro vibrations of the driver leading to less detail on reproduction.
But is a discussion for other thread...
I don't know the difference in real life, but in theory the results between spikes and felt/rubber spacers are different. The spikes will really lock the speaker in place, while the rubber feet may flex, damping the micro vibrations of the driver leading to less detail on reproduction.
But is a discussion for other thread...
Hello!
Thanks for the tips regarding spikes
I'll look into it more once I have painted my speakers.
What kind of amplifiers do you guys recommend as well? Right now I have a Yamaha RX-V679, not that expensive, and most definitely not super hi-fi I'm assuming.
My previous speaker set-up was the following:
Front: Cerwin Vegas A123. (Pretty clunky, super old speakers, they are like 20-25 years at least.)
Center: Cerwin Vega E-D6C.
Small back speakers: Argon C1
Subwoofer: Cerwin Vega XLS-12S
I used to have an older NAD amp before, but it wasn't great for playing on all 5 speakers so then I got a new Yamaha amp just for the movie feels.
Since then I recently moved to a fairly small apartment which isn't really suitable for anything regarding sound (very strange room setup, it's not square at all etc) I was thinking about getting rid of the 5.1 system and trimming it down to a 2.1 with my new MK3s . In that case I feel I could probably upgrade the amplifier to something else which is better for 2.1.
So questions:
Is it worth buying a more dedicated 2.1 amp for music given that I don't care that much about surround sound anymore?
How much should I pay to notice a big difference given that my current amplifier probably cost like $400?
Got any specific tips regarding amps?
Are lists like on this site legit/valid in the DIY hifi forum? (Best stereo amplifiers 2019: budget and premium | What Hi-Fi?)
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for the tips regarding spikes
I'll look into it more once I have painted my speakers.What kind of amplifiers do you guys recommend as well? Right now I have a Yamaha RX-V679, not that expensive, and most definitely not super hi-fi I'm assuming.
My previous speaker set-up was the following:
Front: Cerwin Vegas A123. (Pretty clunky, super old speakers, they are like 20-25 years at least.)
Center: Cerwin Vega E-D6C.
Small back speakers: Argon C1
Subwoofer: Cerwin Vega XLS-12S
I used to have an older NAD amp before, but it wasn't great for playing on all 5 speakers so then I got a new Yamaha amp just for the movie feels.
Since then I recently moved to a fairly small apartment which isn't really suitable for anything regarding sound (very strange room setup, it's not square at all etc) I was thinking about getting rid of the 5.1 system and trimming it down to a 2.1 with my new MK3s
. In that case I feel I could probably upgrade the amplifier to something else which is better for 2.1.So questions:
Is it worth buying a more dedicated 2.1 amp for music given that I don't care that much about surround sound anymore?
How much should I pay to notice a big difference given that my current amplifier probably cost like $400?
Got any specific tips regarding amps?
Are lists like on this site legit/valid in the DIY hifi forum? (Best stereo amplifiers 2019: budget and premium | What Hi-Fi?)
Best regards,
Fredrik
Frederik, as you mentioned 2.1, I assume you’re planning to keep the CV sub, or at least replace it with another self powered model? If so, then a straightforward stereo integrated amp / receiver with a sub-woofer output could fit the bill- maybe take a look at the Onkyo A9110. While the FH3 could likely survive on less power, I’ve always found that the lower powered models in most makers lines also have much shorter list of features, inputs, etc.
Depending on the number and types of sources, you may need to proceed half way up a model line to suit your particular requirements, and end up with a few bells and whistles you don’t think you need.
Another approach h might be something like a small network receiver. I have a Marantz CR611 which has an almost perfect combination of features / functionality for my upstairs system - including line and sub-woofer outputs, Bluetooth / Airplay - but a limited number of inputs compared to almost any surround receiver, or even middle of the line up integrateds.
Depending on the number and types of sources, you may need to proceed half way up a model line to suit your particular requirements, and end up with a few bells and whistles you don’t think you need.
Another approach h might be something like a small network receiver. I have a Marantz CR611 which has an almost perfect combination of features / functionality for my upstairs system - including line and sub-woofer outputs, Bluetooth / Airplay - but a limited number of inputs compared to almost any surround receiver, or even middle of the line up integrateds.
Most of the drivers i work with have low to modest power handling specs*. I get asked all the time, “but i have a 100w amp”. I say, just be judious with the volume control.
*(a more or less meaningless spec for home hifi)
I agree with what Chris says. But we have to ask budget? An how simple do you want the system to be?
2.1 amps tend to be quite limited in performance. I would also suggest an integrated with a powered sub (amp in the box or not). I would look for preamp out as well as a sub out for maximum future versatility. Next step up would be a pre-amp + power amp. Lots of diy possibilities there. And a chance to mention the Amp Camp kit. Remind us what driver you are targeting for the FH3?
dave
*(a more or less meaningless spec for home hifi)
I agree with what Chris says. But we have to ask budget? An how simple do you want the system to be?
2.1 amps tend to be quite limited in performance. I would also suggest an integrated with a powered sub (amp in the box or not). I would look for preamp out as well as a sub out for maximum future versatility. Next step up would be a pre-amp + power amp. Lots of diy possibilities there. And a chance to mention the Amp Camp kit. Remind us what driver you are targeting for the FH3?
dave
Well, there's a certain synergy between tubes in general and SET in particular with 'FR' drivers and/or compression horn loading, but good ones are no longer cheap like in my youth, though some semblance can be accomplished by simply adding series resistance to 'taste' and since the 679 is a decent amp with plenty of excess power available to 'burn' in your new app, suggest getting a pair of cheap 25 ohm+ pots to dial in the amount required, then if satisfied with this 'upgrade', replace them with a DIY resistor bank of small, high quality resistors to get to the desired resistance/power handling........ or do as I've typically done first and insert an 8-10 ohm [or whatever the speaker's nominal rating is] carbon comp resistor to mimic a matching impedance amp and more often that not found it satisfactory.
GM
Frederik, as Dave alluded, I’d ignore power rating for now and concentrate on the questions of - how many and what type of program sources will be used? For example, the particular Yammie you mentioned has lots of HDMI, digital and old school video, and two line level analog inputs, but no MM/MC phono input for vinyl - a source that has seen a recent resurgence, and can often be found higher up on most manufacturers lines - both in receivers and integrateds.
Another consideration is that even the most modest of surround receivers will generally have much more comprehensive bass management programming built into their DSP than most integrateds that include a mono sub out - specifically in terms of selecting a high pass frequency for the mains when the system includes a sub, even if only used in 2 channel mode. With smaller FR drivers such as in an FH3, the sonic advantages of doing so shouldn’t be overlooked.
I’d be inclined to live with the existing system in the new place for a while, before contracting a case of the two-footitis virus. - whichnis insidious.
Another consideration is that even the most modest of surround receivers will generally have much more comprehensive bass management programming built into their DSP than most integrateds that include a mono sub out - specifically in terms of selecting a high pass frequency for the mains when the system includes a sub, even if only used in 2 channel mode. With smaller FR drivers such as in an FH3, the sonic advantages of doing so shouldn’t be overlooked.
I’d be inclined to live with the existing system in the new place for a while, before contracting a case of the two-footitis virus. - whichnis insidious.