I haven't had a chance to optimize the X1/X2 crossover curves for the XdW yet. It is still on my list of things to do.
I assume that the attachment to your post is a simulation of the X1 frequency response, as opposed to a measurement. It is definitely not correct. The low frequency peak should be at about 27Hz, not 35Hz. The peak amplitude looks close, but might be 4dB or so too high also.
I assume that the attachment to your post is a simulation of the X1 frequency response, as opposed to a measurement. It is definitely not correct. The low frequency peak should be at about 27Hz, not 35Hz. The peak amplitude looks close, but might be 4dB or so too high also.
If anyone needs driver data while the site is down, here is the link for the spreadsheet:
http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/NHT_Drivers-2.xls
http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/NHT_Drivers-2.xls
Member
Joined 2003
noise in the machine
pc's are typically very noisy based on unshielded power supplies radiating lots of interference- to count it out hookup a portable battery driven source and if the amp is still problematic start at the input connectors looking for chassis ground where they don't belong (ie rca inputs)- you could also hookup the computer to another amp and see if its is the problem- also you could have a "little of both" issues which will be very hard to find if you don't start isolating the parts and pieces(see above)-
bottom line in all DIY projects is go slowly, "measure twice cut once",
fuse power wherever possible and if you have a variac use it, if you don't have a multimeter buy one they are cheap and can give you answers to your questions, finally the whole point of this kind of forum
is ask the question and someone who has gotten past a similar problem will HELP you.
Gotta love it
rob
pc's are typically very noisy based on unshielded power supplies radiating lots of interference- to count it out hookup a portable battery driven source and if the amp is still problematic start at the input connectors looking for chassis ground where they don't belong (ie rca inputs)- you could also hookup the computer to another amp and see if its is the problem- also you could have a "little of both" issues which will be very hard to find if you don't start isolating the parts and pieces(see above)-
bottom line in all DIY projects is go slowly, "measure twice cut once",
fuse power wherever possible and if you have a variac use it, if you don't have a multimeter buy one they are cheap and can give you answers to your questions, finally the whole point of this kind of forum
is ask the question and someone who has gotten past a similar problem will HELP you.
Gotta love it
rob
Replacement tweeters for VT-3 + repair of a sub amp
I need to buy two VT-3 replacement tweeters. Also one of my VT-3 sub amps go on and off (and I have verified that it is not a loose connection). Any help regarding where to buy the replacement tweeters and have the sub amp repaired will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
Anitesh
I need to buy two VT-3 replacement tweeters. Also one of my VT-3 sub amps go on and off (and I have verified that it is not a loose connection). Any help regarding where to buy the replacement tweeters and have the sub amp repaired will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
Anitesh
If the WF-100k amplifier hums louder when the patch cord is removed from it, then something may be wrong with the amplifier.
Remove all input cables, disconnect the driver, turn the LP control and volume to max and measure the noise at the amplifier output with an AC voltmeter set to the mV AC scale.
Replacement VT-3 tweeters can be purchased from NHT. www.adkhifi.com can repair your VT-3 amplifier.
Remove all input cables, disconnect the driver, turn the LP control and volume to max and measure the noise at the amplifier output with an AC voltmeter set to the mV AC scale.
Replacement VT-3 tweeters can be purchased from NHT. www.adkhifi.com can repair your VT-3 amplifier.