anatech said:
Hi Chris,
It's a single transmission line subwoofer. There is only the woofer (12" Pentivent). The vent is right below it (the black frown). The corners are mitred, reinforced with biscuits and glued with polyurethane glue.
It sits in the corner of my lab, as I haven't used it for about a year.
I'm always building something, so don't hesitate. When you get your plans together sent them to me.
Hi drproton,
If in doubt, read my signature line.
As for your baffle, I can't think of any reason to make it removable. In the really old days, speakers were mounted from the rear of the baffle. We now know better. Your box would be more sturdy if it was one unit. I use "Tee nuts" to mount the drivers. Glue them with something and let them set up with a bolt installed to hold them in alignment. You can either mount the crossover directly behind the woofer, on a wall near the woofer, or on the outside for better cooling.
-Chris
Yes. I was hoping you fellas would get a laugh out of my story. Also, I think you can still order that stuff in. It's heavy and expensive.
If in doubt, read my signature line.
As for your baffle, I can't think of any reason to make it removable. In the really old days, speakers were mounted from the rear of the baffle. We now know better. Your box would be more sturdy if it was one unit. I use "Tee nuts" to mount the drivers. Glue them with something and let them set up with a bolt installed to hold them in alignment. You can either mount the crossover directly behind the woofer, on a wall near the woofer, or on the outside for better cooling.
-Chris
drproton said:
Hi,
Like I said, there is an advantage in using two layers (or more) over one thick layer. The transition between layers disrupts vibration. You could use MDF on the inside and veneered particleboard on the outside - even better.
Why do you want the baffle removable? better to make the cab in one piece and mount the driver from the front.
Do you mean edge diffraction on a sharp corner? Many high end speaker builders don't have a problem doing it.
Sparks from the particleboard are from tiny bits of metal that wind up getting in the mix.
I had one of the carbide teeth fly off the blade in a tablesaw while cutting particleboard. It hit me in the forehead, but didn't leave a scar.
I had thought about the veneered particle board. The problem is it usually looks cheap and it requires carefully mitered corners. Something the router can't do.
As for the baffle, zaph made some reference to removable baffles, also the madisound kits have this. This is what made me think about it. I suspect madisound does it as matter of convenience so their cabinets can be easily configured for different drivers. I'll just go for a fixed baffle. I think there should be enough space through the woofer hole to work. The question about the corners was in regards to diffraction. Probably not an audible difference.
As for the carbide tooth, ouch. The worst experience I had on a tablesaw was cutting wood with rotten knots, hemlock and oak were bad for this. You see the black knot going to the blade and wince cause all those bits of wood are going right back in your face. Stings. I consider myself a good carpenter/machinist not because I build the most beautiful things, but because all my fingers are still on my hands and unmaimed.
As for the baffle, zaph made some reference to removable baffles, also the madisound kits have this. This is what made me think about it. I suspect madisound does it as matter of convenience so their cabinets can be easily configured for different drivers. I'll just go for a fixed baffle. I think there should be enough space through the woofer hole to work. The question about the corners was in regards to diffraction. Probably not an audible difference.
As for the carbide tooth, ouch. The worst experience I had on a tablesaw was cutting wood with rotten knots, hemlock and oak were bad for this. You see the black knot going to the blade and wince cause all those bits of wood are going right back in your face. Stings. I consider myself a good carpenter/machinist not because I build the most beautiful things, but because all my fingers are still on my hands and unmaimed.
The veneer used on cabinet grade plywood is usually not cheap looking. A poor veneer job is bad looking though. How much experience do you have with veneering?
A combination of the two could be the best. Veneer plywood for the top, back and bottom and veneer for the sides and front.
Save you some work.
BTW, I still have all of my digits too. I've never really came close to any kind of mishap where fingers could be lost (knock on wood).
A combination of the two could be the best. Veneer plywood for the top, back and bottom and veneer for the sides and front.
Save you some work.
BTW, I still have all of my digits too. I've never really came close to any kind of mishap where fingers could be lost (knock on wood).
drproton said:
Here is an excellent page. A step by step explanation. I read it through and it's pretty much the way I do things. The only difference is that I prime the substrate first with solvent based urethane and sand smooth before applying the contact cement.
You don't have to do that though. I only do it to avoid two coats of contact cement on the substrate and this makes the results smoother.
Thanks for the link. I'll read over it thoroughly tonight. I was also thinking of using a vinyl veneer since it would probably be easier for me to get right. Though I don't think any of them look as nice as a properly finshed wood veneer. Are they any nice looking vinyl veneers available?
So far I've seen two techniques for wood veneer that are within my capacity. One is the contact cement method, the other is the wood glue/iron method. I've heard some people had trouble with the contact cement approach. OTOH I did once spend almost an entire summer laying up arborite countertops, so I know a bit about using contact cement.
So far I've seen two techniques for wood veneer that are within my capacity. One is the contact cement method, the other is the wood glue/iron method. I've heard some people had trouble with the contact cement approach. OTOH I did once spend almost an entire summer laying up arborite countertops, so I know a bit about using contact cement.
drproton said:
Hi,
I tend to stick with the traditional hardwoods for veneer, like oak, maple, cherry, etc. I'm not a big fan of the exotics (my personal preference)
I get veneer here , but they are a wholesale supply to business.
I found one place, West Wind Hardwood that has a good selection. Price list is on their website and the prices seem reasonable. Might be worth it to give them a call.
I have seen the results from the glue and iron on veneering, and was not impressed.
I like contact cement and have never had a problem with it. I use a small foam roller to apply it, and then dispose of the roller after I'm done (it's not worth it to try and clean it).
If you have experence laminating countertops, youll have no problem.
Re: Hi!
Not at all.
I see three components - the baffle, the stand/leg and the rear chamber.
One way to tackle this would be:
The rear chamber could easily be made through lamination of about 5 layers of 25mm MDF. At this stage you could also apply irregular internal surfaces and bracing integrated into the lamination layers. Once done finish this up as you would normally ie. veneer or paint.
The stand and leg sits between the baffle and rear chamber. Its just two pieces of MDF joined with leg having a suitable cut out to allow the drivers on the baffle to see the rear chamber. Finish this part as you normally would.
The baffle is easier still, just do the driver cuts and add the shape to the top and bottom edges. Once again finish as normal.
With all three finished parts in hand they simply need to be combined. You could glue together or better yet hide some long screws behind the grill mounts. These screws would pass through the baffle and leg then into the rear chamber. Between all layers I'd use sealing strip and a very very small amount of glue(so as not to squeeze it out of the joint onto the finish) to ensure integrity.
Time consuming but simple and doable.
zeonrider said:Nice speaker, nice shape but hard to make.
Regards zeoN_Rider
Not at all.
I see three components - the baffle, the stand/leg and the rear chamber.
One way to tackle this would be:
The rear chamber could easily be made through lamination of about 5 layers of 25mm MDF. At this stage you could also apply irregular internal surfaces and bracing integrated into the lamination layers. Once done finish this up as you would normally ie. veneer or paint.
The stand and leg sits between the baffle and rear chamber. Its just two pieces of MDF joined with leg having a suitable cut out to allow the drivers on the baffle to see the rear chamber. Finish this part as you normally would.
The baffle is easier still, just do the driver cuts and add the shape to the top and bottom edges. Once again finish as normal.
With all three finished parts in hand they simply need to be combined. You could glue together or better yet hide some long screws behind the grill mounts. These screws would pass through the baffle and leg then into the rear chamber. Between all layers I'd use sealing strip and a very very small amount of glue(so as not to squeeze it out of the joint onto the finish) to ensure integrity.
Time consuming but simple and doable.
I agree, this is very doable. It is small potatos to the hexagon speaker project.
The one thing I would do differently from Shin is that instead of laminating 5 layers together, I would 'kerf' cut the material, and bend the wall around to fit the shape. I would also mix up some Bondo, and fill in the kerf cuts and when the wall is shaped, the excess could be wiped away. That way you have a very solid wall. In fact the Bondo is more dense than the plywood or MDF.
If you have a table saw, your job is much easier. However, a circular saw can make your cuts well also. You must need a straight edge to use as a fence. And a router too.
The one thing I would do differently from Shin is that instead of laminating 5 layers together, I would 'kerf' cut the material, and bend the wall around to fit the shape. I would also mix up some Bondo, and fill in the kerf cuts and when the wall is shaped, the excess could be wiped away. That way you have a very solid wall. In fact the Bondo is more dense than the plywood or MDF.
If you have a table saw, your job is much easier. However, a circular saw can make your cuts well also. You must need a straight edge to use as a fence. And a router too.
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