Nice looking work. I did have one question: would it be possible to orient R50, R51 and Dout so that they are close together? I'm not sure, but for those of us who will be using a 75 Ohm coax cable directly to a BNC out having the 75 Ohm resistors right near the Dout pins may make for an interface with lower reflections.
OTOH, given the distance on the board and the Dout connector itself, the gains may not be as large as I think.
OTOH, given the distance on the board and the Dout connector itself, the gains may not be as large as I think.
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Nice looking work. I did have one question: would it be possible to orient R50, R51 and Dout so that they are close together? I'm not sure, but for those of us who will be using a 75 Ohm coax cable directly to a BNC out having the 75 Ohm resistors right near the Dout pins may make for an interface with lower reflections.
OTOH, given the distance on the board and the Dout connector itself, the gains may not be as large as I think.
Yes, it is possible, but ...
... we have ¨adapted¨ the board a litle to our future transport who will have front display very close to board. If we move the connector on the same part with display it may be a problem if coax cable is a little thicker and, as you mentioned, the gain for 2 cm is disputable.
Instead, I would focus my resources to very high quality for R50, R51.
Regards,
Tibi
Can I use a resistance iron for this job?
I've been thinking about how to put this board together. As I don't have a SMD workstation or a way to do a solder flow bath , I've been looking at the tools I have. I have a number of standard soldering irons of course, but I also have an adjustable resistance iron. I suspect using a regular iron for SMDs is a bit challenging. My resistance iron has a tweezer type handpiece where I can offset the tips to account for each tip being at a slightly different height. I thought this might be ideal for holding down the SMDs with one tip, and having the other tip make contact with the solder pad on the PCB. If this could work, the beauty of it is that I can stop the current flow through the iron after the solder joint has been made but continue to hold on to it until the joint is set.
Does anyone know if a resistance type iron can work for this sort of SMD soldering?
I've been thinking about how to put this board together. As I don't have a SMD workstation or a way to do a solder flow bath , I've been looking at the tools I have. I have a number of standard soldering irons of course, but I also have an adjustable resistance iron. I suspect using a regular iron for SMDs is a bit challenging. My resistance iron has a tweezer type handpiece where I can offset the tips to account for each tip being at a slightly different height. I thought this might be ideal for holding down the SMDs with one tip, and having the other tip make contact with the solder pad on the PCB. If this could work, the beauty of it is that I can stop the current flow through the iron after the solder joint has been made but continue to hold on to it until the joint is set.
Does anyone know if a resistance type iron can work for this sort of SMD soldering?
as you mentioned, the gain for 2 cm is disputable.
Instead, I would focus my resources to very high quality for R50, R51.
Thanks Tibi. I suspected this had been considered.
I was trying to put together bobken regs last year and couldn't find the 15R caddock MP330 among other components.
I probably couldn't find it because I should have been looking for a MP930 Caddock ... I have made a few corrections to my BOM. But still can't find a MK132 caddock with a 428 value?
Any advice?
Cheers
Bill
SANYO LASER DRIVE Mecahnism flat cable
Hi:
I need to replace the flat 15 pin ribbon connector in my Shigaraki transport and would like to know where to get it. It seems that there are a lot of variations of this cable 16 pin, 12, 24 etc. but I cannot find the 15 pin with the appropriate length of arond 9 to 8"
Thanks
Hi:
I need to replace the flat 15 pin ribbon connector in my Shigaraki transport and would like to know where to get it. It seems that there are a lot of variations of this cable 16 pin, 12, 24 etc. but I cannot find the 15 pin with the appropriate length of arond 9 to 8"
Thanks
Hi:
I need to replace the flat 15 pin ribbon connector in my Shigaraki transport and would like to know where to get it. It seems that there are a lot of variations of this cable 16 pin, 12, 24 etc. but I cannot find the 15 pin with the appropriate length of arond 9 to 8"
Thanks
Try this code at Digikey: HF15U-08-ND
jazz35
I´m using a Velleman 30W standard iron, with ceramic heating element.
I guess I could use my Hakko FX-888, but I don't have any tips small enough for SMD work. Anyone know what the right tip size would be for this sort of work? Would chisel be better than ball or pointed tip?
Hi:
I need to replace the flat 15 pin ribbon connector in my Shigaraki transport and would like to know where to get it. It seems that there are a lot of variations of this cable 16 pin, 12, 24 etc. but I cannot find the 15 pin with the appropriate length of arond 9 to 8"
Thanks
if u cannot find exactly what u want,just snip off the additional pins at both ends with a sharp cutter. i did that and it works perfectly.
Jazz35: not qualified to offer any opinion, but it looks great!
Uncle leon: sounds like a good idea! I was using rikens in there before, the blue ones with the gold leads. How do you suggest to proceed?
Fran
I could lend you a pair for testing - send me a PM with your address if you are interested.
My resistors take a lot of time and expensive materials to make, so please promise to be careful with them Also, they are quite a lot bigger than the standard resistor sizes (about 3cm x 2cm x 1cm for 300R, 100R is a bit shorter) - I hope this would not be an issue for you?
Nice looking work. I did have one question: would it be possible to orient R50, R51 and Dout so that they are close together? I'm not sure, but for those of us who will be using a 75 Ohm coax cable directly to a BNC out having the 75 Ohm resistors right near the Dout pins may make for an interface with lower reflections.
OTOH, given the distance on the board and the Dout connector itself, the gains may not be as large as I think.
This is very easy to overcome. Simply discard the connector and hard-wire your digital out directly to the resistor solder points.
This is very easy to overcome. Simply discard the connector and hard-wire your digital out directly to the resistor solder points.
Of course! Thanks u_l.
I think Hakko helps you a lot to decide. Please check this HAKKO | Soldering iron | HAKKO FX-888I guess I could use my Hakko FX-888, but I don't have any tips small enough for SMD work. Anyone know what the right tip size would be for this sort of work? Would chisel be better than ball or pointed tip?
Any chance of getting through holes on the output to mount a newava transformer?
thanks
JimS
Jims,
You´ll have this chance on the additional board who will be designed later.
The additional board will support S/PDif trough BNC, RCA, AES/EBU, TOSLINK and AT&T ST glass.
Regards,
Tibi
Jims,
You´ll have this chance on the additional board who will be designed later.
The additional board will support S/PDif trough BNC, RCA, AES/EBU, TOSLINK and AT&T ST glass.
Regards,
Tibi
The ST driver on my transport is starting to get flakey. Just started happening a few weeks ago. I'm now intermittently losing the lock unless I power cycle the transport, then it's okay for a number of days.
Were the old ST glass driver modules always "on", or did the laser turn on only when signal was present?
For those of you that want to use the laser mech with the magnetic puck this is an option.
These "donut" magnets are available on ebay.
Just use a grinding stone to enlarge the hole, larger side of the opening is 14.5mm
I glued the magnet to a piece of flat aluminum.
Then I used a drill press to do the grinding.
Use plenty of water for cooling.
Use light pressure and grind it slowly to avoid chipping and cracking the magnet.
After its done just hit the other side of the aluminum plate with a hammer to separate the glue.
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These "donut" magnets are available on ebay.
Just use a grinding stone to enlarge the hole, larger side of the opening is 14.5mm
I glued the magnet to a piece of flat aluminum.
Then I used a drill press to do the grinding.
Use plenty of water for cooling.
Use light pressure and grind it slowly to avoid chipping and cracking the magnet.
After its done just hit the other side of the aluminum plate with a hammer to separate the glue.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Nicely build but delete this magnet and create a puck without magnet and then listen to clasic music.
Regards,
Rudy
I was wondering what the plan was for a puck?
I have seen many opinions in the past in this thread somewhere.., suggesting both the magnetism and the rotational inertia of the puck have a perceived (noticeable) effect on the sound (after DAC, amp, and speakers/phones.)
I know a man who will do relatively small runs of high quality injection molded plastic parts (normally for radio control model aircraft). If we could decide what we want this might be a way to get a hundred or two hundred reasonably priced pucks.
We could try to copy the current magnetic puck design but to higher tolerances to reduce the warp and wobble.
The outer skirt section which does not touch the surface of the disk seems pointless and unsightly if we can achieve the same rotational inertia with a more compact and pleasing shape. Having the puck larger diameter than the platter seems pointless, other factors being equal.
Does someone know what are the important factors regarding puck design?
Is this a can of worms best left unopened?
Too late?
Cheers
Bill
Sorry, I see there was a recent discussion started on the puck already. Around post #5404~
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-541.html#post2920594
Somewhere on this thread there is a post where someone kindly explains magnetism having an effect on the laser alignment servo's... I've been searching for it but haven't found it yet. Unless my pickled memory is playing up again!
I recall it seemed a convincing and knowledgeable post.
We clearly have magnetic fields surrounding both the spindle and the sledge motors which are hard to avoid, though I think I read somewhere that the Shigaraki spindle motor was fitted inside a metal magnetic shield. This was mistaken for a cheap attempt to make the motor look like a very high quality motor but I think it was more likely to be for shielding?
Bill.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-541.html#post2920594
Somewhere on this thread there is a post where someone kindly explains magnetism having an effect on the laser alignment servo's... I've been searching for it but haven't found it yet. Unless my pickled memory is playing up again!
I recall it seemed a convincing and knowledgeable post.
We clearly have magnetic fields surrounding both the spindle and the sledge motors which are hard to avoid, though I think I read somewhere that the Shigaraki spindle motor was fitted inside a metal magnetic shield. This was mistaken for a cheap attempt to make the motor look like a very high quality motor but I think it was more likely to be for shielding?
Bill.
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