say that you have 8V in supply
say that you use any ordinary led (green, red , yellow) and they all are in range of 2V of working voltage
say that you don't need full brightness , forr what you need 20mA through led
say that you choose 10mA tyhrough led ( for my eyes always almodst too bright , too)
so - needed resistor is :
(Upsu - Uled)/Iled
(8V-2V)/0,01A = 600 ohms
use nearest bigger value - 620 ohms
dissipation in resistor = I^2xR = 0,01^2x620 = 0,06W , so plain 1/4W is good enough
say that you use any ordinary led (green, red , yellow) and they all are in range of 2V of working voltage
say that you don't need full brightness , forr what you need 20mA through led
say that you choose 10mA tyhrough led ( for my eyes always almodst too bright , too)
so - needed resistor is :
(Upsu - Uled)/Iled
(8V-2V)/0,01A = 600 ohms
use nearest bigger value - 620 ohms
dissipation in resistor = I^2xR = 0,01^2x620 = 0,06W , so plain 1/4W is good enough
Erik van Voorst said:
Did anything else happen prior to changing that cap? I would consider reverting to the original capacitor if you find nothing obvious.
Sounds like the micro-controller/dsp is not getting powered properly or has no clock.. Check the ribbon to the display and make sure it is oriented properly. (You didn't plug in the ribbon backwards did you - on EZ32 this can be fatal.)
Check the clock make sure that it is present.
Check the ribbon cable that goes from the laser to the board - make sure it is seated properly and plugged in the right way. (Look at your rcez31 if you need a guide.)
Carefully recheck all of the work you have done since you last had it working and be careful...
Watch out for broken ribbon cables as they are easily broken and not too easy to replace.
I blew the controller in my first rcez32 and had to get another boom box so I know all about frustration..
On a good note mine is all finished and has been working great for about 2 months now. I am very pleased with the overall result and use it nearly every day.
Today I did put up the other rig....the -31
I left eveything standard ...and attached the new power supply
and had immediately a beautiful LOCK...
Music Maestro......
At least I have now all the time in the world to check the-51 careful with the use of your tips...thanks Kevin....
Her a pic....The Brothers 51 31
I left eveything standard ...and attached the new power supply
and had immediately a beautiful LOCK...
Music Maestro......
At least I have now all the time in the world to check the-51 careful with the use of your tips...thanks Kevin....
Her a pic....The Brothers 51 31
Attachments
Erik van Voorst said:....and what a lovely sight....partially modded -31....
But what I find strange is that with the 8 Volt only to the motor and no further supply my led is also lid....
Hi Erik
Certainly the led is being feed (fed ?) by that larger board on left. Compare to my pic on post #1234, a simpler layout. To light my led (ok sorry) I had to feed it from 24VDC PS , grey and orange wires, 10K series to grey wire.
Regards
jonners said:
I've done a lot of mods, including external clock, but being experienced from previous 4 clones, this one left with original caps, exept input PS and 0.1. Yes, these tantals bypass original litics, and it was last mod that came in mind, the concept taken from tweaking el chepo DAC.
Lucky day for me. While looking at and assemblying a spare transport I found where I went wrong with my first one. As previously posted after replacing all the 'R' caps in playermods.pdf and my player would spin up and read "00" on the display. I found that I installed E3 and E4 cap slightly too high and it was blocking the movement of the laser mechanism. I'm now back up and running with all the mods and very happy.
Because of this piece of luck I now have a spare mechanism if anyone's interested.
Also, I think I read in a previous post that someone's remote didn't work beyond two feet. I was using mine today and it worked fine at seventeen feet.
Regards,
Dan
Because of this piece of luck I now have a spare mechanism if anyone's interested.
Also, I think I read in a previous post that someone's remote didn't work beyond two feet. I was using mine today and it worked fine at seventeen feet.
Regards,
Dan
dantwomey said:Lucky day for me. While looking at and assemblying a spare transport I found where I went wrong with my first one. As previously posted after replacing all the 'R' caps in playermods.pdf and my player would spin up and read "00" on the display. I found that I installed E3 and E4 cap slightly too high and it was blocking the movement of the laser mechanism. I'm now back up and running with all the mods and very happy.
Because of this piece of luck I now have a spare mechanism if anyone's interested.
Also, I think I read in a previous post that someone's remote didn't work beyond two feet. I was using mine today and it worked fine at seventeen feet.
Regards,
Dan
I am interested and sent you a pm yesterday...
brgds said:
Have you experience with external clocks with this clone...could you inform me I am curious about its effects (be it in your setup)
I am planning to try the citizen....the trichord and the tent in this contraption to see what it brings....with and without dedicated power supply....
Today the R1 R2 R3 R4 R5 were removed and the results were stunning...this transport became suddenly promising....the immediate effects were bucketloads of air and the focus became better.....
The ps after 24 hours burn-in took care of a much better low en less distortion in the upper registers (piano)....however after the removal of the R1-5 there was no distortion any longer noticeable and the lows became more firm....
This is fun and already a killer for the better transports