Note that both positive legs are tied together. With one pair of diodes and not 2 this will produce +12 - 0. If you put the second positive leg through it's own set of diodes it would then make (+12)-0-(-12) or a 24V supply. If you are using only one leg it will work just fine, but you will have more ripple on the input side of the regulator.
Of course, use a meter and make sure that you are only putting out 12 volt before hooking things up. We want to keep that smoke inside.
Of course, use a meter and make sure that you are only putting out 12 volt before hooking things up. We want to keep that smoke inside.
audio1st said:
Zigis said:
I have the exact same problem with my current unit. I decided to purchase a spare and carefully go through each modification one at a time rather than doing all the capacitors and crystal at once. This will hopefully allow me to track my failure point. Best case scenario will be two working units. Worst case will be at least one working. Will keep everyone posted as time permits.
Regards,
Dan
audio1st said:
The bridge cable is the jumper from 5A to 5B on the pdf of mods..
I have tried to show the smd's more clearly with the attached picture. ( Do not make the holes in the heat-sink
No I didn't do the bridge cable, but i managed to miss cap no. 3.
Still there on the pcb. Will I have to remove the heatshield to remove the cap ?
nickthevoice said:
It should say 24V CT (CenterTapped)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1416752#post1416752
I don't think any one has tried. Go for it. The JVC is the bottom of the line. No tone controls, no balance controls. It is the cheapest of cheap. That is why the simple transport and controls. Stick with a similar sanyo boombox and you may very well find the same transport and control.
Funny that what is usually perceived as the least desirable could turn out to be what we hunt for. I do love the "tweeters" they use in the JVC. Nothing but injection molded hard plastic molded into the grill with no real purpose.
Funny that what is usually perceived as the least desirable could turn out to be what we hunt for. I do love the "tweeters" they use in the JVC. Nothing but injection molded hard plastic molded into the grill with no real purpose.
I just attached my shigaclone to a Zhaolu D3 DAC (modified with OPA134 and BP caps).
This DAC to a (tweaked) TA2024 T-amp. The amp to my Fostex FE83E double bass reflex boxes.
And I connected the computer with a TG-Link, a SndScape Cinema! Card, to the same Zhaolu D3 DAC.
In the Shigaclone the original CD (of course, Marla Glenn, Personal) and on the PC the same tracks, accurately ripped by EAC to WAV format.
So, I am able to toggle between TG-Link/PC and SPDIF/Shigaclone.
In the first moment, my favourite: the shigaclone. It seems to have more details, more dynamics. Just the bass of the PC/TG-Link solution seems to be more controlled.
After listening the half CD, switching for and back, I realized the TG-Links solution to be more naturally. A little bit more like the Studer D730 with the internal DAC.
After listening to the whole album, I realized that I exactly remark some weakness from SPDIF, TG-Link does not have! Some harshness in sound.
Soon, I will replace one of the RCA inputs of the D3 to BNC connector. And then compare again and report it here.
Franz
BTW:
The Zhaolu D3, modified, beats the Super Pro DAC's by worlds!
/Edit:
And the TG-Link with uncompressed 192kHz/24Bit Files: awesome!!!
This DAC to a (tweaked) TA2024 T-amp. The amp to my Fostex FE83E double bass reflex boxes.
And I connected the computer with a TG-Link, a SndScape Cinema! Card, to the same Zhaolu D3 DAC.
In the Shigaclone the original CD (of course, Marla Glenn, Personal) and on the PC the same tracks, accurately ripped by EAC to WAV format.
So, I am able to toggle between TG-Link/PC and SPDIF/Shigaclone.
In the first moment, my favourite: the shigaclone. It seems to have more details, more dynamics. Just the bass of the PC/TG-Link solution seems to be more controlled.
After listening the half CD, switching for and back, I realized the TG-Links solution to be more naturally. A little bit more like the Studer D730 with the internal DAC.
After listening to the whole album, I realized that I exactly remark some weakness from SPDIF, TG-Link does not have! Some harshness in sound.
Soon, I will replace one of the RCA inputs of the D3 to BNC connector. And then compare again and report it here.
Franz
BTW:
The Zhaolu D3, modified, beats the Super Pro DAC's by worlds!
/Edit:
And the TG-Link with uncompressed 192kHz/24Bit Files: awesome!!!
shigaclone
Hi- my set-up at the moment is Shigaclone/outboard clock with own PS/zapfiltered mkII Zhaolu DAC2.5.
I generally found massive amount of details,incisive, but too digital for my liking but then again i have only ran it for a few hours only. I know a lot of DIYers prefer the stock resonator quartz but i had to try the aftermarket clock.
Hi- my set-up at the moment is Shigaclone/outboard clock with own PS/zapfiltered mkII Zhaolu DAC2.5.
I generally found massive amount of details,incisive, but too digital for my liking but then again i have only ran it for a few hours only. I know a lot of DIYers prefer the stock resonator quartz but i had to try the aftermarket clock.
I'm please to report that I completed my prototype and I verified that every functions is working, so the two PCB I modified (I also modified the LCD PCB to mount it into the wood block) are still working. This is proving that Peter Daniel modifications instructions are perfect. I didn't have to use any cap on the new crystal. I just modified the transport PCB according to the instructions and it worked. I'm using the upgrade 8V supply.