...
Nude Vishays are a great example of a "good on paper, poor in real life" situation: making an attenuator with two or three of them terribly flattens the dynamics and "sucks the soul out of music" - you are left with tons of detail and nothing to actually enjoy. The only party I would want to have with Vishays in my system is probably a Boston tea party!
...
Actually I enjoy them very, very much, but this can be my taste.
Regards,
Tibi
But first and foremost - it is the sound that matters. I understand Dim likes it - and if it sounds good then do you really care what the trace looks like?
uncle-Leon, my comment and answer to your question is "I agree" and "yes".
I'm neither of the purely subjective nor purely objective camp. I don't believe, for example, that some of that high dollar gear that gets reviewed in Stereophile - but measures like absolute cr@p - is good just because people like the sound of it. To me that's unacceptable. By the same token I'm right there with people who will point out that just because it measures perfectly doesn't mean it actually sounds good. I've heard plenty of stuff on both sides of that line.
I think we need to strive for a design that attempts to adhere to reasonable technical performance characteristics. If we can maintain that and still get great sound I think it's the right approach.
From my point of view, measurements are just an indication towards the right direction. Such measurements are just a tiny bit of the truth. They are just an indication whether you are on the right track or not... Electronic devices even in their simplest forms are extremely multidimensional, so claiming that they are perfect because a bunch of measurements are perfect is pretty much B.S. unless verified by "audio nirvana" which is the ultimate goal in the first place...
Until we manage to create a proper, subjective and full model of what "audio nirvana" means, measurements mean something only for troubleshooting and just a bit more than nothing to prove audio excellence.
About my above measurements, these are telling me to TRY something around 14.2dB attenuation and check the inductance of my resistors and perhaps the loading of the chip. There is nothing telling us that it is going to play better or worse like that... I am just checking my device based on our initial hypothesis that a 0.5V perfect square signal should sound better... There is no rule that this is right either though...
Until we manage to create a proper, subjective and full model of what "audio nirvana" means, measurements mean something only for troubleshooting and just a bit more than nothing to prove audio excellence.
About my above measurements, these are telling me to TRY something around 14.2dB attenuation and check the inductance of my resistors and perhaps the loading of the chip. There is nothing telling us that it is going to play better or worse like that... I am just checking my device based on our initial hypothesis that a 0.5V perfect square signal should sound better... There is no rule that this is right either though...
Actually I enjoy them very, very much, but this can be my taste.
Regards,
Tibi
For me they are the best on the planet...
But its all about using them in a clever way...like an ingredient.
At the moment I use eg two 125 ohm in my DAC...soon I will compare them against the stuff Uncle Leon is making....that will be (again) promising.
I make heavy use of naked Vishay but only in combinations with other warm saucy ingredients...
The issue i had when i added the 5v supply (Bobken shunt reg) was that it did not deliver enough current. But that was a mistake made by myself, needed to change a resistor to enable more current. If i do not remember wrong it consumes around 150 mA
/Anders
Anders, which resistor did you replace, and with what value?
If I'm going to build a Bobken, does anyone know if this is the genuine article?
IC AD811AN High Performance Video Op Amp Qty 4 | eBay
The printing looks a little messy for an AD chip.
IC AD811AN High Performance Video Op Amp Qty 4 | eBay
The printing looks a little messy for an AD chip.
tonyptony: my error/mistake was to follow this schema in post #4211
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-422.html#post2450573
were the resistor after the BSP 129 is 15 ohm, this will limit the current to about 35mA. From my measurements the player needs about 100mA to function, so puzzled I searched for all posts regarding Bobken in this thread and found this updated schema 100 posts later (#4373)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-438.html#post2494104
there the resistor is 3 ohm and that did the trick, I settled on 2.7 ohm and my Bobken/Shiga works fine now.
/Anders
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-422.html#post2450573
were the resistor after the BSP 129 is 15 ohm, this will limit the current to about 35mA. From my measurements the player needs about 100mA to function, so puzzled I searched for all posts regarding Bobken in this thread and found this updated schema 100 posts later (#4373)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-438.html#post2494104
there the resistor is 3 ohm and that did the trick, I settled on 2.7 ohm and my Bobken/Shiga works fine now.
/Anders
Hi guys, my remote no longer controls the Shigaclone. I've checked the connection between the receiver on the shigalcone and the pcb and that's fine.
Any ideas?
1. Check remote batteries.
2. Check if your remote IR led is working with a camera.
3. Check if your IR receiver is powered - 5V
4. Check IR receiver output with a scope.
Regards,
Tibi
This looks like an original, top quality SFP-101N.
SF P101 Original New Sanyo Laser Lens Mechanism SFP101 Optical Pickup | eBay
It may need some connector adaptors, but this should be not an issue.
Regards,
Tibi
SF P101 Original New Sanyo Laser Lens Mechanism SFP101 Optical Pickup | eBay
It may need some connector adaptors, but this should be not an issue.
Regards,
Tibi
This looks like an original, top quality SFP-101N.
SF P101 Original New Sanyo Laser Lens Mechanism SFP101 Optical Pickup | eBay
It may need some connector adaptors, but this should be not an issue.
Regards,
Tibi
I bought one today...
People abroad so pay attention since after you buy you get to know the shippingrate which is 35 dollars...
I bought one today...
People abroad so pay attention since after you buy you get to know the shippingrate which is 35 dollars...
41$ to Romania.
Guys can you have a look at that?
It seems to have different mounting holes...
New Genuine Sanyo SF P101 16P Deck Old Version Laser Head Optical Pickup | eBay
It seems to have different mounting holes...
New Genuine Sanyo SF P101 16P Deck Old Version Laser Head Optical Pickup | eBay
tonyptony: my error/mistake was to follow this schema in post #4211
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-422.html#post2450573
were the resistor after the BSP 129 is 15 ohm, this will limit the current to about 35mA. From my measurements the player needs about 100mA to function, so puzzled I searched for all posts regarding Bobken in this thread and found this updated schema 100 posts later (#4373)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-438.html#post2494104
there the resistor is 3 ohm and that did the trick, I settled on 2.7 ohm and my Bobken/Shiga works fine now.
/Anders
Thanks Anders. The one with the 3 Ohm resistor is the one I was using. I wonder how low a resistor can be used before the Bobken starts having problems? From all the reading i did it seems like there is not a lot of room for component variation in the Bobken.
Guys can you have a look at that?
It seems to have different mounting holes...
New Genuine Sanyo SF P101 16P Deck Old Version Laser Head Optical Pickup | eBay
Hmm. If you look at this seller's Feedback there are a number of claims of counterfeit products. But the one posted by Tibi seems to have different connectors. I actually bought two mechanisms from this seller in the U.S., but of the type originally supplied with Tibi's kit. At least from that perspective I can tell you this seller seems to be reliable. But if the one from HK is the genuine article it seems like that would be the one to get.
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