It is 99,99 OFC from Alpha Core 12AWG inductors.Just unwind inductor and cut to wanted electrode length.
I tried to buy one in 2008 in Australia and could not find one here.
Whilst waiting I purchased 2x Sanyo MCD-ZX530F which had some common elements but no remote control.
In the end, I ordered EZ51 from the UK and asked the relatives to send it over.
I have no longer use for these and will be putting it up on the diyaudio swapmeet shortly.
Regards
Jeremy
If it is of any interest, I have posted the items
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap...ntled-1x-sanyo-mcd-zx530f-australia-only.html
OK, first up, don't shoot me ok? I'm not looking to derail this thread, or spark a believers vs non-believers argument that goes on for pages. I believe that has happened already on this (or the line level forum).
I have had cause recently to use some SPDIF attenuators between my shiga (fully modded, incl Peters reclock from some pages back) and my DAC. I still have the 300/92R on the TTL output to knock it down to consumer levels, but these attenuators are on top of that. What I have heard is a cleaning up of the sound similar to the reclock, but maybe not as large a difference. But for a few quid each, its well worth it I think.
Anyway, I post it here just because I've tried it in my system and like the effects. I would really like if a few more people tried it just to see. Much easier to try this than most of the other mods people have done here and the effect seem to be well worth it.
The attenuators are here:
http://minicircuits.com/pdfs/HAT-6-75.pdf
I use a 6dB one at either end of the SPDIF cable, but experiments of which level to use are to follow. Also removing the 300/92R completely and using these to knock down the TTL signal.
Fran
I have had cause recently to use some SPDIF attenuators between my shiga (fully modded, incl Peters reclock from some pages back) and my DAC. I still have the 300/92R on the TTL output to knock it down to consumer levels, but these attenuators are on top of that. What I have heard is a cleaning up of the sound similar to the reclock, but maybe not as large a difference. But for a few quid each, its well worth it I think.
Anyway, I post it here just because I've tried it in my system and like the effects. I would really like if a few more people tried it just to see. Much easier to try this than most of the other mods people have done here and the effect seem to be well worth it.
The attenuators are here:
http://minicircuits.com/pdfs/HAT-6-75.pdf
I use a 6dB one at either end of the SPDIF cable, but experiments of which level to use are to follow. Also removing the 300/92R completely and using these to knock down the TTL signal.
Fran
Laser unit lifespan
Hi
I have my shigaclone done and playing about two years ago and I can say the total listening time don´t total 200 hours.
Now it´s taking too much time to read the cd, quite a lot different when the unit was new. Is it possible that the laser diode unit is going? Can that unit be replaced somehow?
Thanks for help and comments
JC
Hi
I have my shigaclone done and playing about two years ago and I can say the total listening time don´t total 200 hours.
Now it´s taking too much time to read the cd, quite a lot different when the unit was new. Is it possible that the laser diode unit is going? Can that unit be replaced somehow?
Thanks for help and comments
JC
JC -
You need the Sanyo SF-P101N (16 Pin) mechanism, such as this one: SANYO CD / VCD OPTICAL LASER LENS SF-P101N (16 PIN) on eBay (end time 01-Sep-10 16:07:28 BST)
If you get one, notice that you have to remove a solder bridge (electrostatic protection) before it will work: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-209.html#post1634796
You need the Sanyo SF-P101N (16 Pin) mechanism, such as this one: SANYO CD / VCD OPTICAL LASER LENS SF-P101N (16 PIN) on eBay (end time 01-Sep-10 16:07:28 BST)
If you get one, notice that you have to remove a solder bridge (electrostatic protection) before it will work: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-209.html#post1634796
I've had mine for a comparable period of time and have managed to put about 600 Hrs of use on it so far with no discernible change in performance.
I keep mine covered when not in use in order to avoid contaminating the lens assembly - do you keep yours covered?
Do you live a polluted environment or have a smoker in the household? If so it may be nothing more than a dirty lens which you can easily (but carefully) clean with eyeglass lens cleaning tissues..
You may also have mechanical binding or stiction which is preventing the mechanism from reaching the TOC quickly - make sure that nothing is getting in the way.
Mechanisms are cheaply available on eBay, check the thread carefully for the correct version. I think Peter Daniels has posted the PN you need here on the thread at some point. I have two spare mechs for mine, but have not needed to do anything since I finished it.
I bought a complete replacement movement deck (without pcb of course) for less than £5 at the time, although I see they have increased their prices in the meantime. See post 3663 on this thread for ebay link. Could be easier to fit than fiddling about with just the laser head.
Hi
I left a CD in place to protect the lens, surely it didn´t agaisnt contaminants. My bad....
And yes I found that cheap Sanyo mechaism onn Ebay.uk. It says you must only count 16 ways in the flat cable. But better check the PN.
Thanks guys, I really appretiate your help.
JC
I suggest you try cleaning the lens first. Also make sure that the CD isn't too wobbly - if its warped badly, it can take ages to read. Just make sure its not a physical problem before moving on to electronic issues.
Like the others I've made 2 that have been stable for many many hours now.
Fran
Like the others I've made 2 that have been stable for many many hours now.
Fran
I recently noticed that my modifications to the amplifier and speakers were only bringing marginal improvements because they merely revealed the inadequacy of the source better... So I decided to jump on the Shigaclone bandwagon 
I bought this here glorious unit: JVC RC-EZ51 - Boombox - radio / CD / cassette
To be honest, it is really rubbish - I couldn't believe I bought such a silly thing. My friends at work and I had a really good laugh when the courier brought it
But later at home, I took it apart - which was actually very, very easy and trouble-free - and connected it to my Gainclone.
Because I'm still waiting for the "upgrade" bits to arrive, and my DAC isn't finished yet, I decided to hook the boombox up as it was, using its built-in DAC. The only actual mod I performed was removing the choke (that is if you don't count disconnecting 85% of the unit a a "mod" lol).
Now, I wasn't expecting much - in fact I was expecting it to be as bad as a CD player as it was bad as a boombox.
And I was, to an extent, right: the sound is slightly tinny, the timbres aren't quite right, both frequency extremes are a bit weak... But then... The SOUNDSTAGE! Beggars belief! I swear I could hear some nuances I've never heard on my modified Marantz CD-52 SE!
I think I now know what people meant when they were describing this transport as having "fresh" sound - it's because it makes your old CD player sound, well - old in comparison!
I bought this here glorious unit: JVC RC-EZ51 - Boombox - radio / CD / cassette
To be honest, it is really rubbish - I couldn't believe I bought such a silly thing. My friends at work and I had a really good laugh when the courier brought it
But later at home, I took it apart - which was actually very, very easy and trouble-free - and connected it to my Gainclone.
Because I'm still waiting for the "upgrade" bits to arrive, and my DAC isn't finished yet, I decided to hook the boombox up as it was, using its built-in DAC. The only actual mod I performed was removing the choke (that is if you don't count disconnecting 85% of the unit a a "mod" lol
).Now, I wasn't expecting much - in fact I was expecting it to be as bad as a CD player as it was bad as a boombox.
And I was, to an extent, right: the sound is slightly tinny, the timbres aren't quite right, both frequency extremes are a bit weak... But then... The SOUNDSTAGE!
Beggars belief! I swear I could hear some nuances I've never heard on my modified Marantz CD-52 SE!I think I now know what people meant when they were describing this transport as having "fresh" sound - it's because it makes your old CD player sound, well - old in comparison!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One other thing to check is the platter height which I don't have to hand at the moment - perhaps someone can oblige. Wrong height causes very poor reading performance - read errors and slow TOC reads.
Hi Jonners
I though you were suggesting this:
SF-P101N CD Mechanism SFP101 16 Pins Sanyo Philips Alba on eBay (end time 12-Sep-10 23:18:39 BST)
How tricky is that replacing job? I´m affraid I would need delicate fingers and measurements setups and so on.
Thanks for comments
JC