Thanks Fran..
.The puck will be......ICING ON THE CAKE.......
Erik
BTW
After a few minutes I will start building again next door....one bizarre DAC-6 Matriarch is coming up
http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=88295.msg1493845#top
.The puck will be......ICING ON THE CAKE.......
Erik
BTW
After a few minutes I will start building again next door....one bizarre DAC-6 Matriarch is coming up
http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=88295.msg1493845#top
YESSSSSSS....
Your puck came in....
No deviation what so ever...you' ve done it
I had to slightly modify it being loosening the M6 thread and enlarging the cup in the underside in order to fit over the small "hill" on the Delrin platform....all specific in my situation.
Bach Brandenburg (Egarr check it out) is on as we speak with a steady ebony on top......
THANKS FRANK !!!!!!!
Your puck came in....
No deviation what so ever...you' ve done it
I had to slightly modify it being loosening the M6 thread and enlarging the cup in the underside in order to fit over the small "hill" on the Delrin platform....all specific in my situation.
Bach Brandenburg (Egarr check it out) is on as we speak with a steady ebony on top......
THANKS FRANK !!!!!!!
No noise of any sort in mine which is a rather complicated variant based on the RC-32.
Did you follow the rework directions correctly and are you using the analog or digital outputs??
You are not sharing a power supply between the transport and the dac are you?
The fact that you mention a mechanically noisy motor makes me think you have a serious error in your rework or something wrong with the power supply.
Did you follow the rework directions correctly and are you using the analog or digital outputs??
You are not sharing a power supply between the transport and the dac are you?
The fact that you mention a mechanically noisy motor makes me think you have a serious error in your rework or something wrong with the power supply.
CRYSTAL HC49U 16.9344mhz
Hello everyone,
After reading this fabulous thread..... I feel like doing this player now...My knowledge in electronics is very low (very close to 0
, but too bad, this adventure is not so risky...except making my brain warmer)
I am sure this will make me busy, and wil ltake ..a certain time to finish.
I bought one RC-EZ51H on ebay UK, and one SF-P101N 16pins as spare (we never know what can occur..) still ebay UK
I am now trying to find this famous citizen crystal ref CSA-309 16.9433MHZ (16.9C77 on Okapi's pdf)here in Europe...and it's really hard to find.
I found on ebay this ref from citizen "HC49U 16.9433MHZ".
According to what I read from Citizen specs, the HC49U has the exact same specifications than CSA-309 (unless I missed
something) ..so I think you guessed my question... will HC49U make the job as well as CSA6309..?
Hopefully ..yes ...
Thanks a lot...
cl06
Hello everyone,
After reading this fabulous thread..... I feel like doing this player now...My knowledge in electronics is very low (very close to 0
, but too bad, this adventure is not so risky...except making my brain warmer) I am sure this will make me busy, and wil ltake ..a certain time to finish.
I bought one RC-EZ51H on ebay UK
, and one SF-P101N 16pins as spare (we never know what can occur..) still ebay UKI am now trying to find this famous citizen crystal ref CSA-309 16.9433MHZ (16.9C77 on Okapi's pdf)here in Europe...and it's really hard to find.
I found on ebay this ref from citizen "HC49U 16.9433MHZ".
According to what I read from Citizen specs, the HC49U has the exact same specifications than CSA-309 (unless I missed
something) ..so I think you guessed my question... will HC49U make the job as well as CSA6309..?
Hopefully ..yes ...
Thanks a lot...
cl06
BGF 1000/16
i change the caps psu from
bg std 1000/25 - lm7808 - bg std 1000/25
to
bg f 1000/16 - lm 7808 - bg std 1000/25
with the first caps the high looks sharp
but when i change to bgf 1000/16 a wonder
happen in my ear
if you wanna try this caps, it is like jewel
just US$ 6.5 and shipping was US$ 2.5 worldwide
i receive paypal
i change the caps psu from
bg std 1000/25 - lm7808 - bg std 1000/25
to
bg f 1000/16 - lm 7808 - bg std 1000/25
with the first caps the high looks sharp
but when i change to bgf 1000/16 a wonder
happen in my ear
if you wanna try this caps, it is like jewel
just US$ 6.5 and shipping was US$ 2.5 worldwide
i receive paypal
woodturner-fran said:
Hi Fran,
My puck arrived tonight, and of course you know it was with great excitement that I rushed down to ye olde man cave (should that be bat?) with the new puck.
I am delighted to say the installation was intuitive and you know what - I really like it. I think I can hear a subtle improvement in sound, but it looks two orders of magnitude better than what was there before!! And it is really easy to use and works just fine with my Herbie's Audio Lab (yes that's a plug) CD mat.. As you probably remember my last experience with machined pucks was not a happy one, so I am happy to say this is just awesome.
Thanks again for including me..
I received Fran puck last week.
Thank you very much.
From a mechanical point of view, it's perfect. Really a good job.
I was able to fix the problem I had with the stock puck. It was not centered therefore introducing a wobbling movement on the disc.
CD spins flat now.
About the listening side: it seems to me that Shiga delivers a better sound now. Nothing outstanding, but music flows more easily, more natural. I think it's related to bass frequencies, they're tighter and more extended.
Fran's puck has been an improvement for me. Thanks again.
Thank you very much.
From a mechanical point of view, it's perfect. Really a good job.
I was able to fix the problem I had with the stock puck. It was not centered therefore introducing a wobbling movement on the disc.
CD spins flat now.
About the listening side: it seems to me that Shiga delivers a better sound now. Nothing outstanding, but music flows more easily, more natural. I think it's related to bass frequencies, they're tighter and more extended.
Fran's puck has been an improvement for me. Thanks again.
Attachments
and works just fine with my Herbie's Audio Lab (yes that's a plug) CD mat..
Are you using Black Hole CD Mat (the small one) or grungebuster CD Mat (the large one)?
Glad you are enjoying them fellas. Also glad that they run true for you!! I know its cheating a little using the existing platter but it makes life much much easier in setting the whole thing up. Probably the sound would change again if the bottom platter were ebony too.
Key is to only barely pinch the puck tight, any more than that inevitably causes the CD to wobble more. Try it and see what I mean.
I'm not really interested in making these things, but if anyone wants the method I used, just give me a shout.
Fran
Key is to only barely pinch the puck tight, any more than that inevitably causes the CD to wobble more. Try it and see what I mean.
I'm not really interested in making these things, but if anyone wants the method I used, just give me a shout.
Fran
Got one too and it's very well made. Thanks Fran.
Didn't have a chance to try it out yet, but yesterday, with one of the Forum members that paid me a visit, we compared CEC TL0 against slightly modified Shigaclone (unit as described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669753#post1669753 )
Both transport were connected first to Bidat, then to my modified NOS DAC.
It was rather hard to tell the difference. In my unbiased opinion, CEC had a bit better foundation and was more solid performer, but in all other aspects, both transports were truly comparable and more or less "equal" ;-)
Didn't have a chance to try it out yet, but yesterday, with one of the Forum members that paid me a visit, we compared CEC TL0 against slightly modified Shigaclone (unit as described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669753#post1669753 )
Both transport were connected first to Bidat, then to my modified NOS DAC.
It was rather hard to tell the difference. In my unbiased opinion, CEC had a bit better foundation and was more solid performer, but in all other aspects, both transports were truly comparable and more or less "equal" ;-)
Attachments
Which NAIM puck/clamp is suitable (if any) ?
I have bought the one to the left (cheaper) = CD clamp #5 from tomtom on eBay but it does not fit the SF-P101N
The one to the right is it's model #3.
Does sbdy know if it will fit ?
Curiously enough the vendor is unable (unwilling ?) to give me the mechanical dimensions nor the distance b/w 2 summits of the inner triangle
TIA for your help, Hervé
Hello !
I have bought the one to the left (cheaper) = CD clamp #5 from tomtom on eBay but it does not fit the SF-P101N
The one to the right is it's model #3.
Does sbdy know if it will fit ?
Curiously enough the vendor is unable (unwilling ?) to give me the mechanical dimensions nor the distance b/w 2 summits of the inner triangle
TIA for your help, Hervé
Hello Hervé
The Naim model 3 puck doesn´t fit either. I have a modified Naim CD 3 and tried it.
I would like ask if someone thinked about use some kind of antivibration spray (3M sell one) or something similar for avoid small microvibration in the thin alu support of the transport, pucks, etc.
Francisco
The Naim model 3 puck doesn´t fit either
. I have a modified Naim CD 3 and tried it.I would like ask if someone thinked about use some kind of antivibration spray (3M sell one) or something similar for avoid small microvibration in the thin alu support of the transport, pucks, etc.
Francisco
One of the fellas was asking about how to make the puck and insert so heres what I wrote to him:
First the brass piece:
I made this from some 8mm brass rod. I used a lathe to turn down the diameter to 6.05-6.08mm. This is the size you need to fit snugly into the existing platter on the mechanism. Then turn down a part of the end to a taper and use a die to cut an M6 thread on the spindle. 6.1mm is a little big for cutting an M6 thread, but take time and a little care it will cut ok.
You want the wood puck to screw up easily on the spindle in use. So what I did was go back over the threaded portion with some sandpaper to take down the overall diameter a little. Its no harm to give it an extra pass with the die after this either. Check it with a M6 nut - it should spin up on the thread very easily.
Wooden puck:
I used ebony, but you can use really any even density timber that will take a thread. Things like african blackwood, cocobolo, box, lignum vitae, and so on all will take a thread.
Turn it over size and drill a 5mm hole in the centre. I tapped with an M6 tap at this stage, but you don't really need to. Leave the roughed blank aside for at least a few weeks (indoors) or better still even longer to equilibrate.
Then come back and re-tap that M6 thread in the centre of the puck. I made mine to the drawing from earlier in the shiga thread. Do not be tempted to make a big puck - make the smallest one you can get away with. Overall outside diameter is slightly smaller than platform, about 20-25mm. Recess inside is 3mm deep and 15mm wide, although once it fits over the cone shaped part of the platform, it will be fine.
You will need to make a mandrel to hold the puck as you make it. I made one from some aluminium with a M6 threaded portion. That way I could spin the puck up onto it and turn one side, then reverse it and turn the other side with rebate etc.
Last thing to do after turning etc, is to go back and use a coutnersink to slightly (1mm) the tapped hole. This helps the puck to spin up a little more freely. After that another pass with the tap again. No harm to leave the puck again for a week or 2 and give it another pass with the tap again.
If youa re buying taps tp make the M6 thread, do yourself a favour and buy a set of 3 (ie starter, middle and finishing taps) and a couple of the right size bits for drilling ( It hink thats 5.3mm).
Make a few blanks when you're at it, most likely out of say 5 you will loose 1 at least. Pick wood that is even, ie don't get some of that (admittedly beautiful) african black or macassar ebony with the heartwood - it needs to be as evenly grained as possible to be as stabe as possible. You will only need a small amount, so buy some instrument grade stuff.
Its all easy enough once you do it once or twice.....
Fran
First the brass piece:
I made this from some 8mm brass rod. I used a lathe to turn down the diameter to 6.05-6.08mm. This is the size you need to fit snugly into the existing platter on the mechanism. Then turn down a part of the end to a taper and use a die to cut an M6 thread on the spindle. 6.1mm is a little big for cutting an M6 thread, but take time and a little care it will cut ok.
You want the wood puck to screw up easily on the spindle in use. So what I did was go back over the threaded portion with some sandpaper to take down the overall diameter a little. Its no harm to give it an extra pass with the die after this either. Check it with a M6 nut - it should spin up on the thread very easily.
Wooden puck:
I used ebony, but you can use really any even density timber that will take a thread. Things like african blackwood, cocobolo, box, lignum vitae, and so on all will take a thread.
Turn it over size and drill a 5mm hole in the centre. I tapped with an M6 tap at this stage, but you don't really need to. Leave the roughed blank aside for at least a few weeks (indoors) or better still even longer to equilibrate.
Then come back and re-tap that M6 thread in the centre of the puck. I made mine to the drawing from earlier in the shiga thread. Do not be tempted to make a big puck - make the smallest one you can get away with. Overall outside diameter is slightly smaller than platform, about 20-25mm. Recess inside is 3mm deep and 15mm wide, although once it fits over the cone shaped part of the platform, it will be fine.
You will need to make a mandrel to hold the puck as you make it. I made one from some aluminium with a M6 threaded portion. That way I could spin the puck up onto it and turn one side, then reverse it and turn the other side with rebate etc.
Last thing to do after turning etc, is to go back and use a coutnersink to slightly (1mm) the tapped hole. This helps the puck to spin up a little more freely. After that another pass with the tap again. No harm to leave the puck again for a week or 2 and give it another pass with the tap again.
If youa re buying taps tp make the M6 thread, do yourself a favour and buy a set of 3 (ie starter, middle and finishing taps) and a couple of the right size bits for drilling ( It hink thats 5.3mm).
Make a few blanks when you're at it, most likely out of say 5 you will loose 1 at least. Pick wood that is even, ie don't get some of that (admittedly beautiful) african black or macassar ebony with the heartwood - it needs to be as evenly grained as possible to be as stabe as possible. You will only need a small amount, so buy some instrument grade stuff.
Its all easy enough once you do it once or twice.....
Fran