Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

leoparleur said:
Hi Shigaclone is coming slowly.

Can someone explain me the use of this black cable and staple to the clear lens? Can I remove it, I'd like to put the display right against the rear of my stainless steel front panel?

Thanks,
Guy


Morfeus said:


this is exactly what the cable does. I wouldn't remove it.


I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.
 
dzuvela said:


I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.


Thanks dzuvela, your input is very welcomed, I'm taking it in consideration.

Guy
 
dzuvela said:

I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.

we tried that, when we mounted the display in a metal case and had problems when removing. So we put it in place again.
 
Just thought I'd post an update about some trouble i was having with the second shiga I built -see here:

linky


So I replaced the mechanism again (the one I installed had a really bad platter and had huge wobble). Anyway..no joy, wouldn't work. So I took out the control board for one last go and resoldered every connectionI had made and voila! it works. I can't say exactly where the problem was, but my hunch was a a spot where I had removed an smd cap with a little too much vigour and it pulled a trace. I fixed that trace, but it was extremely fine. This time I did it with 3x glasses. Hunch is that the soldering there was a bit suspect. I can't remember the numbering right now, but it was that one that no-one really knew what it did and was present on some boards but not others. I'll look it up later.


So alls well that ends well (I hope!)


Fran
Yeah, it was "cap 6" on the okapi PDF....
 
Morfeus said:
Flickering display, numbers only shown partly. As soon as we re-installed the foil and the earthing cable everything was fine again. We did not have contact problems.

I see.
Thank you for that information. It is worth to know for everyone here.

What I did in my shiga-case, was to remove display from orignal PCB with other elements, and mount all at custom shaped PCB (experimental type with dots).
I really don't remember if plastic folie was removed, but I am 100% sure that grounding was.
Admit that I am not informed in details of how LCD operates. Since I got no problem with, thought that LCD grounding is not important.

Morfeus, thank you once again for sharing your information.
 
analog out

Skorpio said:
I have best results with analog output, new coupling caps and resistors changed.

Digital out via PDs NONOS dac was not able to compete, I suspect du to SPDIF connection.

My supply is simple 8,2V zener (shunt) and external 12 V supply...


Analog out is not bad if youre willing to take some radical route:

1. I built seperate 5v regulator and tap it to critical parts of the LC7860, mainly the DAC. There is a convenient jumper on board to do this. I left the B764 in place to power the other chips, including LC7860 Vss.

2. Remove the output caps. From there, connect it directly out via any cap of your choice. The ground return must go back to the 5v regulator, dont send it back to the mainboard.

3. I use a better oscillator ripped from a dead sony machine.

Overall, the sound is not inferior to my CDpro transport output.
 
my first shiga

i change
-220 uf with bgnx 47uf 6.3v
-110 uf with bgn 33uf 16v [2]
-0.1 uf with ero 0.01uf 63v

with soft char, better sparation
it's beats one by one cdp with
statement from the cdps owner :D

how lucky am i
 

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Skorpio said:
To get rid of the magnet in the disc clamp, use a stainless steel disc with same dimentions and aprox. weight....it works fine...

The big question is does it really make any difference to the sound? (i.e. A relatively impartial observer at least entertains the possibility that there is a difference or even an audible improvement.) I spent many an hour on ill-fated and expensive clamps that did not work. The stock setup is very sloppy but seems to work and sound fine.

If it works well where did you get the stainless steel disk?
 
The big question is does it really make any difference to the sound?

This is the big question indeed. I am currently using a screw down clamp made from ebony. There were some issues with my first one being stable (ie it warped) and one I sent Erik warped too. However, I do think it adds to the sound - but not hugely. In fact I had promised one to m.massimo too but have not got back to finishing them yet. Hoepfully this week guys!!


No, I'm not interested in making a bunch of them!!


Fran
 
woodturner-fran said:


This is the big question indeed. I am currently using a screw down clamp made from ebony. There were some issues with my first one being stable (ie it warped) and one I sent Erik warped too. However, I do think it adds to the sound - but not hugely. In fact I had promised one to m.massimo too but have not got back to finishing them yet. Hoepfully this week guys!!


No, I'm not interested in making a bunch of them!!


Fran


Fran,

Try and get hold of a block of carbon in as pure/fine a grade as you can and turn it down...it will not warp and you will be amazed at how much better it will be than even the hardest densest wood.

It is quite expensive and easy but filthy stuff to work (WEAR A MASK AND GOGGLES). I simply do not know who is a supplier in the British Isles, but Audio Teckne in Japan use it as body material for MC cartridges, as did Be Yamamura. Both even made complete turntable systems from carbon.

Good luck.
 
Indeed there is a noticable difference using the ebony in comparison with an acrylic puck.
The ebony has a sweeter projection even when it is still slightly wobbeling.....the test with violins is revealing.

If you give it another try, I have all the patience in the world Fran...take your time...:cool:


BTW I just finished my power supply for my dac...I call it the
"DAC-6 Matriarch."...because it is huge and heavy with all that copper and transformers.

Today I will start with building an encasement for the digital and analogueboard..so far in combination with the PiTbull it sounds very convincing to say the least....:)
 

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Yes, Erik, patience is good - but a kick in the *** to get moving is good too!!

Anyway, m.massimo and Erik, here is something I'm sure you gave up on:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



I'm going to send one to Peter Daniel and Kevinkr as well because of their large contribution to this thread and the enjoyment we all get from our shigas.

Peter, I have your address from some of the stuff I have got from you over teh years.

Kevinkr - can you pm your address if you want one of these?


Fran