By "software" I imagine 45 to have meant the great variation in dynamics between various commercially available versions of more poplular music, in the "loudness wars" sense. Lots of great music has been murdered by "remastering" - avoid at all costs.
Technically this is a separate issue from peak output volume, but subjectively they're of course related. We are strange and unknowable creatures with hearing designed/evolved/samething for detecting the sabretooth cat sneaking up on us from behind. Music is grafted on from version 6.1 or something.
All good fortune,
Chris
Technically this is a separate issue from peak output volume, but subjectively they're of course related. We are strange and unknowable creatures with hearing designed/evolved/samething for detecting the sabretooth cat sneaking up on us from behind. Music is grafted on from version 6.1 or something.
All good fortune,
Chris
The quality of the recording. But it does not mean it has to be a special recording. It has more to do with the basic recording technique. Over the years I have discovered some cheap (vinyl) records that simply sound great. I have not done it with digital stuff.
The actual (or better, less compressed) dynamics in the recordings and the minimization of room effects (with room treatment) give the best dynamics. The dynamic range will basically gain a lot at lower end and also the 3D stage. If you look at it in the time domain, music is just a sequence of impulses with their own evolution. If the room is not properly threated, no matter how you position the speakers, it will simply superimpose its character and eat information starting from the lowest level. Ambience is already imbedded in the recordings, the listing room acts like a second room or a room in the room, so to speak. Increasing the volume just makes it worse! I know that treating the room is not in everyone's possibility but at least should be a reference to avoid other things that make it even worse like increasing AVERAGE listening SPL too much (i.e. turning up the volume hoping to hear better o getting closer to real). If everything is in place there is no need to reach 100 dB SPL at any rate.
In my opinion, home listening will never be like a real event but it has its advantages (or preferred qualities, if you like).
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Not so old. I actually never had the possibility to listen to that. Mostly from the 90ies or early 2000s.Leak Sandwich
Aw sorry ! Mine are Ultra-Linear cathode bias operation , not triode... They use a single-ended KT120 per block, for a 12.5WRMS nominal output (clipping at circa 14W) :
With the 300B triode this time, but still in SE cathode bias operation, I reach 8WRMS nominal (clipping circa 9WRMS) :
That said, if you want to stay SE and Triode, you could effectively parallel two 300B at the output stage : then you would then reach 15WRMS safely...
T
I think we sew the jacket to the button (proverb in Hungary).
Without knowing the loudspeaker parameters, the listening conditions (room with furniture, taste of music, required volume -moderate, loud, extra loud-) it's only shooting to the dark.
I usually use 10W (even in A2) 300B SE.
I have 89dB 3 way ("tube friendly"), 96dB and 98dB full range (1W, 1m) loudspeakers.
Both of them satisfactory, and each of them is different.
The selection of the oldest (89dB) took years.
Ninety nine percent of commercial loudspeakers don't fit to SET amplifier.
I also have 211 amp, 17-18W.
To choose for it appropriate loudspeaker also painful thing. Most of them working ... but ....
With my well-tried loudspeakers it's play music, but very picky with random speakers.
So, IMO the first is choosing the right speaker, then building/buying amplifier.
Without knowing the loudspeaker parameters, the listening conditions (room with furniture, taste of music, required volume -moderate, loud, extra loud-) it's only shooting to the dark.
I usually use 10W (even in A2) 300B SE.
I have 89dB 3 way ("tube friendly"), 96dB and 98dB full range (1W, 1m) loudspeakers.
Both of them satisfactory, and each of them is different.
The selection of the oldest (89dB) took years.
Ninety nine percent of commercial loudspeakers don't fit to SET amplifier.
I also have 211 amp, 17-18W.
To choose for it appropriate loudspeaker also painful thing. Most of them working ... but ....
With my well-tried loudspeakers it's play music, but very picky with random speakers.
So, IMO the first is choosing the right speaker, then building/buying amplifier.
You must be a physicist. Someone told me the best tube amp is at CERN, in Geneva.
In the year 2000, I dragged my SE EL34 stereo amplifier over to StereoTypes store in Portland.
I asked to listen to the ProAc Tablette 2000 Signature speakers, using my amplifier.
(The amplifier "Not your Fathers DYNA . . . A poor Man's SE Amp" From "Sound Practices Issue 10".
Next, I had them charge my credit card, so I could bring the Demo pair home for a listen in my living room
(Saturday evening store closing, to early Tuesday morning when the shop was open again).
I was convinced!
So I brought home a new pair in the box, along with some stands that I filled with sand.
There is noting that can compare to using your amplifier, to listen to a set of speakers in the store; and then bringing a demo pair of speakers home and listening there with your complete system.
You will never get to do that, unless you ask the dealer.
And a dealer that lets you do that, is probably a good dealer.
Talk about chemistry . . . Farmer Brown's Steers are Experts in their Fields, they convert Grass to Steak.
I asked to listen to the ProAc Tablette 2000 Signature speakers, using my amplifier.
(The amplifier "Not your Fathers DYNA . . . A poor Man's SE Amp" From "Sound Practices Issue 10".
Next, I had them charge my credit card, so I could bring the Demo pair home for a listen in my living room
(Saturday evening store closing, to early Tuesday morning when the shop was open again).
I was convinced!
So I brought home a new pair in the box, along with some stands that I filled with sand.
There is noting that can compare to using your amplifier, to listen to a set of speakers in the store; and then bringing a demo pair of speakers home and listening there with your complete system.
You will never get to do that, unless you ask the dealer.
And a dealer that lets you do that, is probably a good dealer.
Talk about chemistry . . . Farmer Brown's Steers are Experts in their Fields, they convert Grass to Steak.
Perhaps 6CB5A would meet the feasibility criteria.
http://vinylsavor.blogspot.com/search/label/6CB5A
http://vinylsavor.blogspot.com/search/label/6CB5A
Measurements are necessary.
So are listening sessions.
I only have one ear now. It is subject to the Fletcher Munson effect, and to aging.
Like exposure to radiation (which is cumulative over time), frequency response also is cumulative . . .
Studio Room, instrument or voice, microphone, recording equipment and post production equipment, playback device (CD, cartridge, etc.), preamp, power amplifier, loudspeakers, Ear(s), and room.
Starts with a room; ends with a room.
Well, headphone users only have to use 9 out of 10 of the above. The only room for them is the studio.
Just my opinions
So are listening sessions.
I only have one ear now. It is subject to the Fletcher Munson effect, and to aging.
Like exposure to radiation (which is cumulative over time), frequency response also is cumulative . . .
Studio Room, instrument or voice, microphone, recording equipment and post production equipment, playback device (CD, cartridge, etc.), preamp, power amplifier, loudspeakers, Ear(s), and room.
Starts with a room; ends with a room.
Well, headphone users only have to use 9 out of 10 of the above. The only room for them is the studio.
Just my opinions
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I have achieved 19W output with an 826 at 520V B+, 30W output with a 211 at 630V B+, and 40W output with a 100TH at 750V B+. All of these were with 5k load.
You don't need super high B+ if you are willing to do the design work to drive grid current.
I bet you could achieve 15W out with an 811A at ~450V B+ or so.
You don't need super high B+ if you are willing to do the design work to drive grid current.
I bet you could achieve 15W out with an 811A at ~450V B+ or so.
