Fosti, that laudspeaker it is more or less my idea. But it is in BR box with that driver, eminence delta 12LF? the qts isn't little high for BR? But a lot of commercial speaker use driver with higt qts in BR boxes to have a lot of bass
In my experience the FE206E in horn is great for music, a listen also to dance and techno with no or little compression. The problem is with the medium frequencies, if the cd is too bright you can't listen well the music message. But If the cd is recorded well without artificial boost in any frequencies they sound great. I use it with solid state amp and also with mosfet amp.
In my experience the FE206E in horn is great for music, a listen also to dance and techno with no or little compression. The problem is with the medium frequencies, if the cd is too bright you can't listen well the music message. But If the cd is recorded well without artificial boost in any frequencies they sound great. I use it with solid state amp and also with mosfet amp.
You can do BLH too in Hornresp. It's a nice piece of software. Alternatively, you could buy Martin's MathCad worksheets for $25.
LspCAD isn't very good at modelling a pipe-horn (or any horn for that matter) particularly accurately IMO, which is why your results will be somewhat different. It's a good piece of software, but it's not as good as many people claim. The industry loves it because it's excellent for BR et al cabinets and it's XO design facilities.
LspCAD isn't very good at modelling a pipe-horn (or any horn for that matter) particularly accurately IMO, which is why your results will be somewhat different. It's a good piece of software, but it's not as good as many people claim. The industry loves it because it's excellent for BR et al cabinets and it's XO design facilities.
All right. I let myself in for it didn't I when I suggested in that casual way that you should design a horn -it wasn't really fair. You want a horn for that first Monacor? SPH-390TC wasn't it? OK, I'll do you a scoop-bin. Should work with a few drivers, that's one thing scoops do well.
Back shortly.
Back shortly.
OK, here's the basic idea.
One J-bin / BVR scoop-bin horn for you using the Monacor SPH-390TC. The cabinet is 19in wide x 24in deep (internal). The chamber is 20in tall, and at the bottom, 17.25in deep (I'm assuming 3/4in build material here). The throat at the top is 2in to the rear and top panel, and 6in deep at the bottom of the chamber. The strike-plate starts 8in down from the chamber, and ends 6in back from the horn mouth, which is 22in tall. See attached very rough layout. If you hate Imperial measurements, just use a convertor or even Google to change to metric (shudder).
One J-bin / BVR scoop-bin horn for you using the Monacor SPH-390TC. The cabinet is 19in wide x 24in deep (internal). The chamber is 20in tall, and at the bottom, 17.25in deep (I'm assuming 3/4in build material here). The throat at the top is 2in to the rear and top panel, and 6in deep at the bottom of the chamber. The strike-plate starts 8in down from the chamber, and ends 6in back from the horn mouth, which is 22in tall. See attached very rough layout. If you hate Imperial measurements, just use a convertor or even Google to change to metric (shudder).
Attachments
Did you say you wanted bass? 
Flat to 35Hz, in-room F10 25Hz, before room-gain is factored in. Excursion 0.5mm (total) down to final cut-off, so isn't really an issue as the Monacor has 7mm each way to play with, and it's nearly 100db 1m 1w sensitive already, so it will go mind-blowingly loud, without distortion.
Flat to 35Hz, in-room F10 25Hz, before room-gain is factored in. Excursion 0.5mm (total) down to final cut-off, so isn't really an issue as the Monacor has 7mm each way to play with, and it's nearly 100db 1m 1w sensitive already, so it will go mind-blowingly loud, without distortion.Attachments
thank you so much.
It's really flat, especially compered to a FE206E in a horn, why? it's because the monacor has an higher qts?
I was thinking that because I didn't expect to be so flat, crossover would be difficult. After I calculate the response of this woofer in free air if it is almost flat will be easy to cross.
It's really flat, especially compered to a FE206E in a horn, why? it's because the monacor has an higher qts?
I was thinking that because I didn't expect to be so flat, crossover would be difficult. After I calculate the response of this woofer in free air if it is almost flat will be easy to cross.
testarossa2k said:
Just natural talent on my part really...
(Cough. If you believe that you'd believe anything. ) It's mostly that the drivers are easy to work with -big cone, big motor, decent suspension, and that scoops / BVRs like this tend to be flatter than a long-path design if they're designed right.
200Hz or 500Hz would be my choice for the XO point.
Bell Labs decades ago defined the telephone band (otherwise known as the midrange) as 200Hz - 4Khz, where our hearing has it's greatest sensitivity. So, best to keep an XO out of that. The 206 if in a sealed box or similar won't really be viable to XO at a much lower point as it's still below its mass-corner and has not yet reached its nominal 96db 1w 1m sensitivity figure.
The 500Hz alternative is a useful alternative option often used during the '50s - early '70s. Although it's in the telephone band, the majority of power demands in a musical signal fall below this point, and a large driver is better able to absorb and / or handle these, especially large trransient swings at high SPLs. A small driver is more likely to struggle with these until it reaches the XO point and the woofer finally takes over. So it depends what you favour as to which is more effective -high dynamic demands = higher point, more delicacy demanded = lower XO point. YMMV. That's the hyper-simple answer, but the odd thing about XOs, coming from a person who really isn't a fan of them, is that people often make them more complicated than they have to be. Primarily because of the fashion for small speakers / drive-units. They had it easier a few decades back when big cabinets & drivers with a wide operational passband were more common than they are today. Your planned setup is very similar to one of those, and IMO is all the better for it.
The 500Hz alternative is a useful alternative option often used during the '50s - early '70s. Although it's in the telephone band, the majority of power demands in a musical signal fall below this point, and a large driver is better able to absorb and / or handle these, especially large trransient swings at high SPLs. A small driver is more likely to struggle with these until it reaches the XO point and the woofer finally takes over. So it depends what you favour as to which is more effective -high dynamic demands = higher point, more delicacy demanded = lower XO point. YMMV. That's the hyper-simple answer, but the odd thing about XOs, coming from a person who really isn't a fan of them, is that people often make them more complicated than they have to be. Primarily because of the fashion for small speakers / drive-units. They had it easier a few decades back when big cabinets & drivers with a wide operational passband were more common than they are today. Your planned setup is very similar to one of those, and IMO is all the better for it.
But how is the impedance with that dual voice coil woofer? It doens't go too low? I have an AMC 3050 amplifier is going to fridge?
And if I want to be cheap, the monacor SP-380P is a good choice?
I'm wondering why it is a lot cheaper compared to the sph-390TC. It has a greater spec that most woofer and it cost a lot less, where is the hambug?
And if I want to be cheap, the monacor SP-380P is a good choice?
I'm wondering why it is a lot cheaper compared to the sph-390TC. It has a greater spec that most woofer and it cost a lot less, where is the hambug?
I am using the FE206E in OB driven by F1 amps with the BSC as suggested by mr Pass.
For bass I use 15" JBL 2225 IB driven by gainclones, they don't play as deep as so many other woofers but I love the tight bass they deliver.
The XO i a active 2. at 250hz.
I have tried a 1. active XO also at 250hz, but the JBL2225 driven by a gainclone, doesn't work good enough in the mid/lower mid compared to the FE206E driven by the F1.
I have tried the FE206E in a 20L sealed box, IB and OB and I prefer the sound of the OB.
I used to drive the FE206E with a gain clone, and later switched to F1, which makes it sing so much better and it is much more pleasing to listen too (don't know if it is the F1 or the fact the it is a current amp). The BSC removes/reduces the glare.
I have a dream of building one more F1s for the JBLs.
For bass I use 15" JBL 2225 IB driven by gainclones, they don't play as deep as so many other woofers but I love the tight bass they deliver.
The XO i a active 2. at 250hz.
I have tried a 1. active XO also at 250hz, but the JBL2225 driven by a gainclone, doesn't work good enough in the mid/lower mid compared to the FE206E driven by the F1.
I have tried the FE206E in a 20L sealed box, IB and OB and I prefer the sound of the OB.
I used to drive the FE206E with a gain clone, and later switched to F1, which makes it sing so much better and it is much more pleasing to listen too (don't know if it is the F1 or the fact the it is a current amp). The BSC removes/reduces the glare.
I have a dream of building one more F1s for the JBLs.
testarossa2k said:
3ohm at minimum, higher than that across the majority of the passband. I've no idea what an AMC 3050 is so I can't comment, but most general purpose amplifiers should do fine, providing they've got a decent power-supply (1w spud amps are not ideal, obviously). The ideal would be to run the 206 with as high-quality an amp as possible, while the LF units can be run with a cheap, bomb-proof SS amp.
Nope, the 380 is not a good choice. Vas is far higher at 505 litres, so the cabinet volume would need to be increased by about 60% or the LF is going to roll-off severely.
the AMC 3050 is this amp:
http://www.amchome.com/Merchant2/me...ode=3050a&Category_Code=Integrated+Amplifiers
it has a toroidal, for what it means. I have also a PA 180W amp that I use for playing and it sounds great also in hifi application
For a horn to play low freq, it is important the fs of the woofer?
I mean a woofer with a FS of 20 and a woofer with FS 40 in a horn with the same volume and other parameter, the second woofer will go low as the first?
thank you
http://www.amchome.com/Merchant2/me...ode=3050a&Category_Code=Integrated+Amplifiers
it has a toroidal, for what it means. I have also a PA 180W amp that I use for playing and it sounds great also in hifi application
60% more? that would be huge. not for me so.
For a horn to play low freq, it is important the fs of the woofer?
I mean a woofer with a FS of 20 and a woofer with FS 40 in a horn with the same volume and other parameter, the second woofer will go low as the first?
thank you
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