fe167e dustcap fase plug

[planet10]

Mod Podge tends to dry with a higher level of flexibility than typical white glue. I ususally call it puzzle coat, since that is what it is uses for (and decopague).

Any craft store worth their salt will have a substitue.

http://t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html

dave

 

[then_dude]

thanks planet10,

i'll look for a cheap replacement, (i was looking already for napkin glue) but maybe i'm gonna order mod podge,

a nice link, thanks

if i get things in, i'll give it a try

thanks,
greetz

 

[then_dude]

i have red the link , and seen the duct seal
i might use that on the fostex fe167e
what do you think ?

and does anyone know what is in it, cause i have looked hard but can't find it in my country, off course it will exist but with another name.

i suppose it is mastic ?

thanks

 

[then_dude]

hello

i'll be getting my mod podge soon, and then i will apply it to the cone
i have ordered some phase plugs at planet10 , so soon it will be up and running like a true performer. then i have to find what i did with the enable kit, and it will be on it too

but an off topic question for planet 10
i'm looking for a pc speaker, i thought of making of your fonkens, but i would like NOT to run a sub. the other thing they may not be is : have a big dept. i will put them next to my screen , so they may be width and high, but not depth. i will put them on the table or hang
them against the wall. From what i have seen at your site, the fonken golden ratio with tha 127 looks a good candidate. But maybe you have a fonken non floorstander with a 167e, it is not that much more expense and maybe it gives the extra depth i need.
but then again, the 127 will be better at other things.
what do you think about any of your desgins as a pc speaker, bearing in mind that dept may not be more than 15-20 cm.
thanks planet10 or anyone who gives his opinion on this

greetz

 

[planet10]

The uFonken was designed foremost as a killer PC speaker, but is somewhat bass challenged, the mFonken does better base (and can compete with some of the so-called woofers that come with typical multimedia sub/sats). Soon to be released is a mFonken sized enclosure for the CSS EL70/EL70eN, a bit more bottom, and top at the expense of a little of the midrange magic... lower bass also means lower efficiency. Drivers are cheaper thou.

If the GR Fonken isn't too large go for it... i am also working on 2 sizes between the FonkenPrime/GR size and the mFonken size.

For nearfield use the smaller driver is probably better then the 167.

dave

 

[then_dude]

thanks planet 10

at this time i'm gonna go for the gr fonken.

but if you are gonna publish fast, i might change to a smaller enclosure.
the difference between the M and the GR is big.

i'm thinking of building a fonken fe167e cause i have them in my bob brines.
i could not find the plans for it, are they online ?

thanks planet10

 

[then_dude]

i have painted the cones, and installed a phase plug (some self made) although i have ordered at planet10,

i must say, the sound is better, the bass is tighter, the highs are good.
i was afraid that to much glue would have killed the highs a bit, but the highs are good
with the phase plug they become better, and so there is a lot of high present. much more than there was. (not really in extension, but in volume, the highs are louder, more balanced).

now the enable kit
does anyone have the pattern that you can lay around the driver ?
thanks

 

[then_dude]

i found it

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=136251&d=1246035966

 

[planet10]

but if you are gonna publish fast, i might change to a smaller enclosure. the difference between the M and the GR is big.

i'm thinking of building a fonken fe167e cause i have them in my bob brines.
i could not find the plans for it, are they online ?

Fonken167 is going thru a revision to 1v1, there has never been a really stable plan yet for these. It will probably beat the dFonken, and cFonken (deci/centi)

dave

 

[then_dude]

nice planet10,

i'll just wait for a few new designs from your magical hands,
and then order the wood. I'm not in a hurry. beside that, i need to get used to the sound
of the bob brines so that i can compare.


but a few questions,
1)do you use any stuffing or damping in any of your fonkens ?
2)what kind of product is used for the blocks of the enable pattern on the cone, cause i don't think that is in the enabled kit, so i need to look for it myself.

thanks planet10
btw: i tried to make video"s but my digital camera is 6 years old, and did not do a good job.

the only thing i can say right now is: make shure if you apply the modpodge that you brush immediatly the glue, cause it is very fast drying, even diluted with water. the cone soaks the glue very fast, so don't use much and start moving the brush immediatly.

bye bye

 

[loninappleton]

then_dude


I can't recall if you were on the EnABL how to thread as well.

The pattern is applied with the materials from the kit. The generic pattern can be resized at the copy shop. The proportion scale they use can accurately change a diameter from one measurement to another.

 

[planet10]

1)do you use any stuffing or damping in any of your fonkens ?

All Fonkens are lined with ~12mm cotton felt (with a back up of not too dense wool felt). So far this has been vintage material reclaimed out of recycled speaker enclosures. Of late we have been running out of our stash, and a used speaker, getting rarer & rarer, can be most valued for its cotton felt.

We have just found a supply of suitable new material made from recycled blue jeans. We will be using this as we go forward, and supplying it with our flat-paks.

It is thou, only available in rolls of about 400 ft^2 -- probably sufficient for 300-some FonkenPrime. Bob at CSS has some and is exploring how to supply smaller quantities to end users, and given demand i may too.

2)what kind of product is used for the blocks of the enable pattern on the cone, cause i don't think that is in the enabled kit, so i need to look for it myself.

PollyScale Flat acrylic paint. This is a key ingredient in Ed's kits. By default he supplies clear/stealth colour, but on request i believe he will supply more colourful PollyScale (he just supplied me with a whole bunch of my most used colours).

dave

 

[then_dude]

thanks loninappleton and planet10

i have found the poly scale paint, it is indeed in stealth color, pitty, cause i really liked those very nice black dots. (off course, if you can apply them evenly).

1)i suppose that there is no need for dilution of the paint?
2)the different tips are for the different sized dots i suppose.

2)the stuffing comes close to the bob brines. in his papers he is writing about specific stuffing he uses, but you can't find it all in europe, some similar products i used and some other germans are. (these are not the things bob uses, but they come close)

me
1)i used what we call "under-roof". the product name in Belgium is Menuiserite. it is a fiber cement flat plate of 3mm, it adds a lot of weight and damps good. After that i put some felt of 12mm. (quite dense woven felt, i got it at a floor store, it is cheap and sounds good).

2)the german guy used a sandwhich construction
http://img12.imageshack.us/i/19ba1.jpg/
he used wood-bitumen-wood-felt.

i'm just letting you know, maybe it gives a new spark, (but probably you have already tested these things)
ps: for the bob brines you can also add loose wool, if there would be to much shout in it. i didn't use it

greetz

 

[loninappleton]

viscosity

It would help if the EnABl discussion continued in the enabl how to.

My use of the polyscale did not do any dilution.

But I've observed a minimum size dot with two different nibs and one was very fine.

This has to do with the viscosity of the paint: drops stay the same size and form as they will. And I have no experience with Rapidograph engineering pens.

Whether thinning changes this I don't know. But with thinning comes running as well.

Before tackling EnABL on a Fostex I would do a dumpster dive and find something to practice on. I have the Roland and the Pioneer cheapies.

Also Budp has said that the hardest ring to do down by the whizzer or dustcap at the base of the cone is not necessary, but you'll want to check with him.

And for practice there is the tap test. Tap test is described in the enabl how-to. It only really works on larger drivers is my guess.

 

[then_dude]

okee, i'll move over to there for that info.
thanks

 

[then_dude]

hello planet10, just received the phase plugs,

i must say they look extremely good and are finished to perfection.

but i didn't cut the dustcap with perfection

i just wondered how you could cut so close to the side, without cutting into the "vertical part", where the conus is attaced to the coil ? and if you have any tips on cutting off the bits and peaces that are still there, i found a cutter not that sharp, a razorblade might be even better i think.

thanks

 

[planet10]

A very sharp scapel is recommended... a bit of 100-150 grit sandpaper is good to finish things off. Make sure that the cone is mostly facing down.

dave

 

[then_dude]

sanding paper, that is a golden hint.
i'll keep it face down, so that no dirt enters the coil

thanks planet 10

 

[loninappleton]

For other's info, using an X-acto or scalpel eliminates a lot of the sawing action needed with other blades. I was surprised at how well it worked and am less squeamish now.

But I wondered why the 167e has a hole in the dust cap. It's defeating the purpose is it not?

 

[then_dude]

thanks loninappleton

well it's not a real hole, it has a mesh over the hole, something like you use to hold the insects outside (but this mesh is very fine and not heavy).

i used an X-acto, i think a scalpel might be more sharp.