About tc9fd attenuation with SLS12... Default (on scheme) is 4.5R. I live in Europe so the typical value is 4.7R, 5.1R, 5.6R. John once wrote (but that was a good few years ago) that the best phase tracking is at 4.8-5.6R. Is this up-to-date information? I hesitate between the 4.7R (I don't know if it's not enough) and the 5.1R. I like not only to be happy with what I hear, but also to know that it is technically correct.
I am in progress to build the 12 inch version of the Manzanita. In order to have a front cover on them, I would like to countersink the elements down in the baffle, perhaps mount them at the backside of it. The hole in the baffle will because of this be sloped to make a smooth transition from the elements.
Will this pose problems in beaming or horn effects, as well as messing up the frequency response? The baffle will be about 19mm thick.
Will this pose problems in beaming or horn effects, as well as messing up the frequency response? The baffle will be about 19mm thick.
The Peerless 12" woofer has a bevel on the front that makes a nice looking mount. While not exactly flush, it doesn't stick up too much. You should be able to use it with grill cloth that stands off the baffle just a few mm.
The fullrange/tweeter can be recessed into the baffle, as seen on some recent builds here. If you prefer to rear mount it, the baffle neeeds to be cut away a good distance around, and not too thick. There are many ways to do this, I think there have been some examples in the thread.
The fullrange/tweeter can be recessed into the baffle, as seen on some recent builds here. If you prefer to rear mount it, the baffle neeeds to be cut away a good distance around, and not too thick. There are many ways to do this, I think there have been some examples in the thread.
There is a fairly wide range that works, remember it's a gentle slope on both divers. Since you are not on the bleeding edge, moving a little either way won't cause you to fall off. The reaction with your room will make more difference than 1/2 ohm. You really should listen to several values to fins what works best in your room.
I can hear it in the construction I made. Effective depth of the wings is 5.1"(total 5.9"). The depth is smaller around vifa (you can see it in my photos above). The distance from the wall is 1 meter. Using the -3db equalizer at 50hz improves the effect. Can reduce the depth of one of the wings will improve the situation?
Wow, just wow! I've been looking for a simple OB to try ever since I tried the Lii Audio f15 full range driver in an open baffle. I've been chasing that sound ever since I sold them. The only thing I didn't like was the beaming due to such a larger full range driver.
My Idea was to use my Coaxial KEF q100 drivers and mate them with the GRS 15 in an open baffle, but I have never designed my own crossover, only built those already designed. I'm guessing If I'm going to do this for the first time I should just follow the build here instead of trying to make a three way with KEF Q100 and try that at a later date. What do you guys think? I've upgraded my RP600's, built some custom c-notes for surround, assembled the DIY SWAN 3.1 so far. I'm addicted, but I know the sound I love is OB. Once you hear it, it's hard to go back. Mind you, it was not only Open Baffle I heard, it was full range crossover less driver at play with healthy amounts of DSP for flat response.
How difficult would it be to take the info here and implement the stock XO of the KEFQ100 with a new network for the GRS 15 woofer?
My Idea was to use my Coaxial KEF q100 drivers and mate them with the GRS 15 in an open baffle, but I have never designed my own crossover, only built those already designed. I'm guessing If I'm going to do this for the first time I should just follow the build here instead of trying to make a three way with KEF Q100 and try that at a later date. What do you guys think? I've upgraded my RP600's, built some custom c-notes for surround, assembled the DIY SWAN 3.1 so far. I'm addicted, but I know the sound I love is OB. Once you hear it, it's hard to go back. Mind you, it was not only Open Baffle I heard, it was full range crossover less driver at play with healthy amounts of DSP for flat response.
How difficult would it be to take the info here and implement the stock XO of the KEFQ100 with a new network for the GRS 15 woofer?
Intriguing. I really don't know. John might have some advice when he gets back on line.
If it were me, I'd stick with 18-20 mH on the GRS 15 and bring the KEF in to match it. I have done exactly that with many fullrange drivers above the 15, or twin 15s. Usually that just meant finding the right size cap for a high pass and the right resistor values to match the woofers. Certainly you should start with the KEF crossover between mid and tweeter.
Just be aware that the KEF cone now has its rear radiation bouncing around the room and coming back to you. The tweeter not as much. Some fullrange drivers with a rising response on axis will balance out in the room because of so much mid coming off the back of the cone. Others, not so much. That's the case with Manzanita as the 3" fullrange doesn't balance out and needs some shaping. I've found that bigger fullrangers tend to balance better with the top end - because of the rear radiation.
Cool. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the inductor a high pass filter for the woofer to crossover to the midrange woofer? Then find the experiment with different caps for the lowpass which would be the xo point between the woofer and midwoofer? The resistor portion would be to just balance the mid and tweeter sensitivity to the woofer correct? Can you put the Thiel small parameters in Xsim in order to simulate this or do I need more information? I'm really excited to try this out, and or just build the Manzanita. Such a great simple design.
My thought was to make a fabric cover to put over the speakers, like a sock. The concern is that the woofer will touch the fabric with the suspension when not countersunk enough. I will have a closer look when my elements is delivered. I thought of making some standoffs for the fabric, but that might induce diffractions and irregularities in the frequency response...
The inductor on the woofer is the low pass filter. It let's only the lows get thru. Being as big as it is, it also helps to flatten the rsisng response of the woofer on the open baffle. In this design, the woofer is joining up with the midrange in the 300-600 Hz octave (acoustically). You want to find a capacitor for your midrange that allows it to blend with the woofer. You can start without one, but you'll find that there is too much overlap. Also putting a high pass on the midrange keeps the bass frequencies out of it, meaning that the cone doesn't have to bang back and forth trying to reproduce bass that it can't do on OB.
I think that I've seen the Peerless 12 countersunk, but with its bevel, you countersink may need its own bevel to look right and be truly flush. You'll see when you get it.
Got it. I'm guessing it will also help with the diffraction effects the coaxial creates by basically being a moving waveguide if I cut out all those frequencies. I was thinking around a 500hz XO for the woofer to also make sure the woofer doesn't start beeming.
Do you mean the 15" woofer? It's does play up that high - some. It's best not to think in terms of box speaker crossovers, I did for a long time and it led me astray. OBs work differently for many reasons. But as long as you have a good solid foundation with the big woofer and big inductor, you can play with over drivers up above that.
Maybe I was getting it confused with the Eminence Driver I was thinking of using instead. https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/290-407--eminence-alpha-15a-spec-sheet.pdf Much more expensive though. I'll just start with the woofer and inductor and go from there. I can't find an 18-20muh inductor however. Guessing that will be the most expensive part of this build.
You can always use two in series, but the wire resistance will double. So one has to select thick wire to start with.
Completely different question Pano. Have you thought of active line level split? With exactly the crossover and slope of passive. This way no power would be wasted in linearising the woofers response and burning power in big resistor infront of mid/tweeter.
Completely different question Pano. Have you thought of active line level split? With exactly the crossover and slope of passive. This way no power would be wasted in linearising the woofers response and burning power in big resistor infront of mid/tweeter.
You can, I have. I've done it with DSP and with LLXO. Yeah, it works, but not as well. There is just something about having that big, heavy inductor in front of the OB woofer that makes the whole thing work. That's John's approach, and it has never failed to amaze me.
It almost feels like click bait. "Try this one simple trick to make your OB work!" "Speaker companies hate this one simple OB trick!"
It almost feels like click bait. "Try this one simple trick to make your OB work!" "Speaker companies hate this one simple OB trick!"