Universall snap in capacitor
fit all sizes from 40 to 30 and different pins that I know off
if one is missing give me lay out and I will put pad there (takes a couple of minutes so no prob
+ leds so if you can see troug case ...
Look at lay out for type and dimentions if you look at screw therminall they all came in 13.5 mm pitch so much beter different board
And at 2 times the rated riple current for same price of snap in cunterpart is no contest
I have made this as there is a common + pad for all sizes board is phisicaly larger this way but works much beter
What one spend on board size is saved with reduced holes numbers
fit all sizes from 40 to 30 and different pins that I know off
if one is missing give me lay out and I will put pad there (takes a couple of minutes so no prob
+ leds so if you can see troug case ...
Look at lay out for type and dimentions if you look at screw therminall they all came in 13.5 mm pitch so much beter different board
And at 2 times the rated riple current for same price of snap in cunterpart is no contest
I have made this as there is a common + pad for all sizes board is phisicaly larger this way but works much beter
What one spend on board size is saved with reduced holes numbers
Attachments
BK,
I see you 're at the top of the DIY matching transistor Unit GB list , great to have friends in high places ...
Hint , hint .........
Sorry wayne what you on about. the curve tracer?
What friends no one likes me.
Farting in public again, but a universal board would be one for just one row of cap cans, with mounting holes, and holes/pads for resistor leads.
Line 'm up, stack them on pcb poles, or place two side by side, solder the Panasonic or nuked MPC power resistors inbetween.
Or just use a hole of each board to connect a chassis-mount Caddock/Isabellenhütte/IRC-TT/Bourns/Sfernice, or Dale RH/NH in a desired package.
(isn't this the hangout for AH's no one likes ? )
Line 'm up, stack them on pcb poles, or place two side by side, solder the Panasonic or nuked MPC power resistors inbetween.
Or just use a hole of each board to connect a chassis-mount Caddock/Isabellenhütte/IRC-TT/Bourns/Sfernice, or Dale RH/NH in a desired package.
(isn't this the hangout for AH's no one likes ? )
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Define elephant.
In a Class A amp, single row PCB's have the added advantage that air can flow on both sides of an electrolytic, cooler.
(me also undress lytics, better cool-off, look sexy and sounds better, ask Guido Tent if you don't trust a psycho)
since we're talking caps, I 've been trying to understand the reason for going with screw in instead of snap in capacitors. The srew tipe are larger, more expensive, and seem to need extra mounting hardware. I can understand that these have in general better ripple current and esr ratings, but what measurable/audible differences can one expect from using them in a class A amp such as the F5T, if same capacitance is used. Screw in caps are at least double the price of similar snap in units from what I've gathered.
It's just an option i brought up Manuel....i would say complementary to the generic PCB, which is fantastic for smaller caps....including the 10000u /40V
Evox RIFA 169 series
if you can get them.The PSU is where many DIYers will diverge in different choices....
Sorry matey
if you look at part numbers and search Farnells prices for snap in are similar to screw terminals
ESR and most of all riple current make a fair bit of difference listening
then came in play construction methodes but I do not realy want to get in to reccomending Slit foils at £20 a pop
It's just an option i brought up Manuel....i would say complementary to the generic PCB, which is fantastic for smaller caps....including the 10000u /40V
Evox RIFA 169 series
The PSU is where many DIYers will diverge in different choices....
I was thinking about 30v secondaries so it might be just a bit short on the voltage rating, but those 63v 22000 ones look quite nice!
Excuse me, can you please tell my what is the difference between a Turbo V2 and a cviller's double outputs cascode one? I still can't decide which one will be better. I doubt I need more that 25-30W, but looking to version with higher current ability for 4Ohm speakers. Thanks, and sorry for newbie question.
You guys lost me with all these changes.
Andy,
the first time I checked with you about the dimensions for a V2 after cutting off the two pairs for V3 it looked good forme (177mm length). Now that you made a dedicated V2 combo board you extended it to 250mm overall (it does not fit my 9" sink any more).
A lot of length seems to be lost just at the very ends to the pcb mounting and inscription. Can all that be brought inward between the first and the second output pair and the board made shorter again? I would much appreciate it!
cheers,
K.
Andy,
the first time I checked with you about the dimensions for a V2 after cutting off the two pairs for V3 it looked good forme (177mm length). Now that you made a dedicated V2 combo board you extended it to 250mm overall (it does not fit my 9" sink any more).
A lot of length seems to be lost just at the very ends to the pcb mounting and inscription. Can all that be brought inward between the first and the second output pair and the board made shorter again? I would much appreciate it!
cheers,
K.
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