Has someone ever compared the F5 to an SymAsym? So what is you verdict?
I am a owner of a SymAsym since a while. I am allways looking for someting better...I think I would bridge the F5 to drive my Dynaudio Special 25.
Yes I was a owner of a SYMASYM and also being owner of an F5 (all DIY).
I`ve sold the SYMASYM.
Was a good sounding amp but compared to an F5 wasn`t so good -to stay by me-
But the orginal Version have only 25W but with the Turbo this should not be a problem anymore.
Thanks for your impression. Since I am going to bridge the F5, it will have about the same power as a SymAsym. I will have Turbo PCBs, but I am not planing on building a mad man's F5.
I use mine with a TVC and 90db speakers and it goes pretty loud.The Optivol/Lightspeed type attenuator gives the same results.
At the beginning of my handicraft DIY i attenuate my aleph J Clone only per Poti.
Works well.
But i`ve later an B1 Buffer which is really easy to build and that was even better.
Should be the same for the F5
Some Ideas or advice,I built some water cooled heatsinks ,I used a 8" piece of 1" square tubing with a thin wall .064" ,I used a auxiliary water pump from my dad's bmw,a connector had broken off,It moves the water fast through a .5" plastic tube,a 5gal bucket for a test reservoir,I made some alum clamps 1" x3" x.025" with 2 bolt holes to tighten the fets to the tubing,The steel tube temp was at 30 C with water flowing through it,I put power on the amp and watched, 24v @ .6 on the source res( stock built F5), The steel tubing went to 35C in a few mins,and stayed so I increased it to 1.2 or about 2 amps the temp increased on the steel tube to 45 C, but the aluminum clamps almost doubled to 80 C,
SO here's the question,how big would a water cooled sink need to be to wick off the heat, is the 1" square too small or should I use one tube per side and chill the water,a water fountain would work well ,the depo has them ,also considered copper and also alum,increase the flow rate too,so any Ideas? Thanks!
NS
SO here's the question,how big would a water cooled sink need to be to wick off the heat, is the 1" square too small or should I use one tube per side and chill the water,a water fountain would work well ,the depo has them ,also considered copper and also alum,increase the flow rate too,so any Ideas? Thanks!
NS
Last edited:
use block of alu as main heatblock - that's much better material for efficient heat exchange
besides - nobody can give you better advice except - if you see it's hot , increase either heat-block , or flow , or chill water , or all 3 factors in same time
these days I'm having problems with my crystal ball , so it will be easier if you post some pics
or just go and search - water-cooling is topic beaten to death at DiyA
besides - nobody can give you better advice except - if you see it's hot , increase either heat-block , or flow , or chill water , or all 3 factors in same time
these days I'm having problems with my crystal ball , so it will be easier if you post some pics
or just go and search - water-cooling is topic beaten to death at DiyA
Ask yourself first why the steel tube is at 45C and the clamps at 80C.
(Rjc + Rcs +Rsa)
Hi,
I can braze steel ez,difficult to weld alum,I have a tig machine but no 220 in apt. garage,I will build a 2 tube sink today one for each side of the fets ,I am looking for some copper tubing,and alum, I need a flat side to mount on but not found any yet,I didn't know water cooling has been beat to death ,I found a article by Grey Rollins and some experiments Peter Daniels did with copper and bronze,I can't build a forge where I live now I do good to use a torch without the neighbors crying FIRE FIRE,lol.
I know why it's a temp difference ,not getting cooled,,,,so a heat sink for both sides,,,will see tomorrow,Thanks for the inputs!!!! YOU guys are the BEST!
Time to sleep,,,,
NS
I can braze steel ez,difficult to weld alum,I have a tig machine but no 220 in apt. garage,I will build a 2 tube sink today one for each side of the fets ,I am looking for some copper tubing,and alum, I need a flat side to mount on but not found any yet,I didn't know water cooling has been beat to death ,I found a article by Grey Rollins and some experiments Peter Daniels did with copper and bronze,I can't build a forge where I live now I do good to use a torch without the neighbors crying FIRE FIRE,lol.
I know why it's a temp difference ,not getting cooled,,,,so a heat sink for both sides,,,will see tomorrow,Thanks for the inputs!!!! YOU guys are the BEST!
Time to sleep,,,,
NS
If you're not set up for alloy welding, easier to get a ready made fluid heat exchanger.
A 2-canal 3" x 4" size (0.6" thick) handles more heat than you'll be able to chunk out (think 0.015C/W at 2.5gpm water velocity), has pre-threaded holes, and only does about $50.
80C is just the outside temperature of the power devices, 80 minus 45 is 35C, means the heat transfer between output device and heatsink isn't kosher.
(ZMey, they're getting too friendly. Next time, say they should read a book, pass the admission exam first, and do a proper search. And change your name to ZenT)
A 2-canal 3" x 4" size (0.6" thick) handles more heat than you'll be able to chunk out (think 0.015C/W at 2.5gpm water velocity), has pre-threaded holes, and only does about $50.
80C is just the outside temperature of the power devices, 80 minus 45 is 35C, means the heat transfer between output device and heatsink isn't kosher.
(ZMey, they're getting too friendly. Next time, say they should read a book, pass the admission exam first, and do a proper search. And change your name to ZenT)
Last edited:
