Thanks for your compliments, one of my first aims was to separate AC power wires from signal ones, and placing power transformers away too. The other was to separate small signal from power output to avoid oscilations.
yes, it is an HI-FI 2000 case. What I'm not sure if about the galvanized steel, I would say yes but I am not an expert in materials. Even don't know what is a powder coated steel or how does it look like.
Attached is another case I bough for my last project. I strongly reccommend this manufacturer if you are looking for a very solid and resistant enclosure.
Regards,
Regi
Attachments
It probably depends which Hifi2000 chassis you are planning to use. They have versions in 2U, 3U 4U and 5U (height). The dissipation capabilities are scaling accordingly 
Here are some numbers (french but a Watt is a Watt) :
5U - HIFI-2000 05/500B Boitier Dissipateur 5U / 500mm - Façade 10mm Silver
Here are some numbers (french but a Watt is a Watt
) :5U - HIFI-2000 05/500B Boitier Dissipateur 5U / 500mm - Façade 10mm Silver
Yeah, I said I wasn't sure about the exact composition of the tray, but for sure it is NOT alu, it has to be steel. As Patrick said, you can check the materials here:Patrick and JBdV are both right.
On some product lines they use more Alu parts - you can tell by the price.
modushop.biz
I will try later the magnet checking
Spev, don't be afraid about modushop's for an F5. Just take the Pessante Dissipante 4U or 5U height. 3U is not enought, specially if you are placing a discrete diode bridge of 8 devices in each heatsink as me. Take the 5U one, you wont regret and you will be able to bias it higher than 1.3A. You can even choose a deeper case (400mm instead of 300mm).
I hope this helps,
Regi
I have tried with the magnet from a speaker I had lying around, and Patrick's assumptions were correct; The tray, the mounting angles, the top and bottom cover and the back panel are pulled from the magnet (well, the other way around in fact while the front panel and heatsinks don't.
Didn't mind about it, but now I can see that this makes a quite strong chassis. When you hold it, feels like you cannot break it even if you throw it against the wall
while the front panel and heatsinks don't.Didn't mind about it, but now I can see that this makes a quite strong chassis. When you hold it, feels like you cannot break it even if you throw it against the wall
What are your speakers? Full range or multi-driver.
The bass driver is likely to have to pass any DC output offset.
The Mid and Treble drivers are very likely to have a capacitor that provides DC protection (if the rating is high enough).
The capacitor can be a film type for both these passband frequencies
Are you planning to use your 27W ClassA amplifier to drive the bass speaker?
The bass driver is likely to have to pass any DC output offset.
The Mid and Treble drivers are very likely to have a capacitor that provides DC protection (if the rating is high enough).
The capacitor can be a film type for both these passband frequencies
Are you planning to use your 27W ClassA amplifier to drive the bass speaker?
This GB (3rd re-run) was just opened, so plenty of boards are available.
I would go with 300VA, but 200VA should work fine too. As to caps, minimum would be 10,000uF per cap.
I would go with 300VA, but 200VA should work fine too. As to caps, minimum would be 10,000uF per cap.
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