780$ ...whao ...you should get heatsinks from India.
For example 300mm of N56 is 60$ & that costly for me so I got N1 (30$ 300mm)
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and the 10.080" profiles i got from heatsinks USA was $50.50 for 300mm
but i needed 8 of them so acctuly. they was cheaperHi fred0,
like you I was getting solder blobs when stuffing my boards for the ACA project. I'm not a veteran solder slinger - still learning... what I found was that I wasn't putting enough pressure on the part lead with my soldering iron tip. The part lead wasn't getting hot enough so the solder would not flow down the lead to the other side of the board. It made me feed extra solder forming the blobs. When heating the lead enough, the solder flows through and you get that nice shiny cone on the other side. It's an art and takes some practice... cheers.
like you I was getting solder blobs when stuffing my boards for the ACA project. I'm not a veteran solder slinger - still learning... what I found was that I wasn't putting enough pressure on the part lead with my soldering iron tip. The part lead wasn't getting hot enough so the solder would not flow down the lead to the other side of the board. It made me feed extra solder forming the blobs. When heating the lead enough, the solder flows through and you get that nice shiny cone on the other side. It's an art and takes some practice... cheers.
Make sure you are getting the pad heated as well. If the solder flows on the pad, it is a simple matter to then draw the tip a short way up the leed. If the pad isnt hot enough for solder to flow on it will ball up on the leed just above it. The smaller the pad, the more tricky this seems to be. Magnifing glasses are a big help. If solder flows on the pad when it touches, bringing the tip up the leed will result in perfect little shiny cone shaped solders. Dragging the tip up the leed also solves the problem of excess solder, it is pulled up the leed and then snipped off when the excess leed is cut. Make sure solder flows on the entire pad around the leed to prevent bad joints. The "shiney cone" should cover the pad.
Russellc
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Another problem is like on the Pearl 2 boards, where the 10,000 uF caps go, the mount holes are large, I guess to accomodate snap in caps. The snap ins I had on hand had too large of spacing too fit, and the ones I ordered had regular wire leeds. The hole is kind of large making a lot of extra hole. Flowing them full for a good joint is a little tricky as well! Practice makes perfect!
Russellc
No problem at all.
To clarify, you mean the 2 bridge diodes in the PSU? Yes, 25A should be fine. Make sure they are attached to the metal chassis with a bit of heatsink compound.
At this time i have the heat sinks issue.
Best quote i got was for 52€ delivered each from Birmingham Aluminium:
Heatsinks: 1000 Series - 1500HS
1500HS supplied in alloy 6063T6 cut to length x 200+/-0.4mm, deburred on
sawn faces, etched and anodised black AA15
That does seem fair and their costumer support was very good.
But...
Today i went to a local store that works with metals and had a idea. If i make them cut from a 4mm thick sheet the base plate for heat sink with 400mmx300mm, then i can have smaller sheets cut and soldered to make a heat sink like the commercial F5 has. A matter of put a layer after layer with angles so that the final result is as good as other options.
And price is arround 30€ each or less.
What do you guys think?
Best quote i got was for 52€ delivered each from Birmingham Aluminium:
Heatsinks: 1000 Series - 1500HS
1500HS supplied in alloy 6063T6 cut to length x 200+/-0.4mm, deburred on
sawn faces, etched and anodised black AA15
That does seem fair and their costumer support was very good.
But...
Today i went to a local store that works with metals and had a idea. If i make them cut from a 4mm thick sheet the base plate for heat sink with 400mmx300mm, then i can have smaller sheets cut and soldered to make a heat sink like the commercial F5 has. A matter of put a layer after layer with angles so that the final result is as good as other options.
And price is arround 30€ each or less.
What do you guys think?
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To be honest i am not too worried about HS size.
I will have, at least, 1 fan blowing into the case.
I have to compromise because funds are too low to do the "right" way. I'm not a silence freak and also the fan is dead silent even at 110v. It's BB rather than brushed.
I am going to follow the diy HS route. Seems logic and much much cheaper. I can even put thermal paste between plates and solder them completely arround junctions.
Sorry i didnt realize i should say weld. My frend has a TIG and talent
So i will weld the several plates and well see what comes out!
I will have, at least, 1 fan blowing into the case.
I have to compromise because funds are too low to do the "right" way. I'm not a silence freak and also the fan is dead silent even at 110v. It's BB rather than brushed.
I am going to follow the diy HS route. Seems logic and much much cheaper. I can even put thermal paste between plates and solder them completely arround junctions.
Sorry i didnt realize i should say weld. My frend has a TIG and talent
So i will weld the several plates and well see what comes out!
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