F.A.S.T. Woofer

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I actually don't have any gain control on the amps. They are the Sure audio boards, I could add signal attenuation, but I was planning on just using the Minidsps onboard gain control, if there is excessive noise on the Fostex drivers from the Minidsp than I can use resistive attenuation instead on the amps.

Better -- do your volume control in your music player. Since you are using a miniDSP, I presume that your source is a computer, otherwise do the volume control at the preamp. I do this: I have a pair of 50w/ch (OK, more like 30w/ch@8ohm). I run the amps wide open and control the volume is Foobar2000 (my music player). Just be sure to set the volume at the amps to zero before turning power on/or or pulling any wires.

Bob
 
Well, 250hz would work I suppose. I'd still be pushing for 200 or lower. But since you are using the minidsp and it's a click of the button, give it all a try. Of course you'll need to measure a few things. Check the polar pattern with this arrangement. I think you'll find it'll do better crossed lower, even if the Fostex is running out of travel. I think your amps will have a harder time driving the TB woofers than the Fostex will keeping up to a lower xo point.
 
Better -- do your volume control in your music player. Since you are using a miniDSP, I presume that your source is a computer, otherwise do the volume control at the preamp. I do this: I have a pair of 50w/ch (OK, more like 30w/ch@8ohm). I run the amps wide open and control the volume is Foobar2000 (my music player). Just be sure to set the volume at the amps to zero before turning power on/or or pulling any wires.

Bob

It seems that gain structure wise I would want to have the highest possible clean signal level from the source so that the signal to noise ratio would be better down the chain.

On my current speakers I set the gain on my amp when I turn it on depending on approximately how loud the music will be and then make smaller adjustments with my Macs volume (through an external Behringer sound card) and don't change the amp volume much at all.

I used a Minidsp before on a friends speakers and the noise was really bad for some reason. It wasn't too bad if you were more than around 6 ft away but if you were sitting at the desk it was very annoying. I am hoping that was just a problem with that Minidsp and a second one will be better. If it is not then I will use a Lpad on the Fostex driver to bring it's sensitivity to the point of the woofer instead of the Minidsp so that the noise floor will be lowered as well by the same amount

Why would the TB woofers be abnormally "hard" for the amps to drive? I know 50 watts each is a bit less than ideal but for this application I don't think that under-powering them a bit will hurt much
 
Unless you have completely made up your mind in favor of the TB over the Anarchy, although I have no experience of the TB still have read that it being a SUB woofer driver is muddy with low mids and vocals. OTOH the Anarchy is a woofer, and people have successfully mated it with even a tweeter as high as 2K Hz.
The 108EZ is sure unbeatable in this application :p
 
Unless you have completely made up your mind in favor of the TB over the Anarchy, although I have no experience of the TB still have read that it being a SUB woofer driver is muddy with low mids and vocals. OTOH the Anarchy is a woofer, and people have successfully mated it with even a tweeter as high as 2K Hz.

Can anyone out there comment on the sound quality of the TB W6-1139SIF below 250Hz? The frequency response seems pretty manageable on the website

The 108EZ is sure unbeatable in this application :p

I came to realize that haha. I wanted to use something else because my Aikos (main speakers) have the FE108e Sigma (modified by P10) so I wanted to change it up. After a thorough investigation I realized that for this app in the $100 price range there really is nothing flatter or with better off axis response. And I already know that I love it's sound, so I might as well just go for it
 
I HAVE it in the Aiko. It is awesome, I love it to death. Goes down just low enough to blend with my http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/205299-sofa-subwoofer-3.html. Not only is it the 108, it is modified by planet 10 with phase plugs

I am not removing it, I am buying a new pair for this project. The problem is not the sound it is the size. I am going to college where I will not have room for huge horns and subs
 
Aye, best of luck.

Put a +1 by the TB drivers.
I have the Neo version, and they took a 120w/ch amp driven to clipping (one per channel).

No matter how much power and headroom you think a system has, once a party starts, it is always pushed such that the headroom = ~3dB (ie, peaks are clipped/compressed, but the rest of the music is pretty much intact).

I use a similar system to what you're planning.

FE126eN plus a TB W6-1139SG per side, 12L cabinet total, ~1.5L for the Fostex (sealed and stuffed), the rest for the woofer, 41Hz tuned.
500Hz XO provided by a Behringer active crossover.

They went pretty loud, and would shake things once everything was transferred across to the shared (between 10 of us) kitchen/lounge area.
However, moving my kit across was a PITA.
Plus, everything was always driven hard.

So now I have a subwoofer - the JBL GTO1214 car sub (ie, will stand some abuse) in one of those prefab 35L cabinets (proper 100L ported cabinet to come later).

Getting bass to travel across a corridor is difficult, but this setup manages it, and sounds rather good doing so.

IMHO, you're better going for ported cabinets (or any tuned cabinet), otherwise you're throwing away lots of SPL capability.

Chris
 
Thanks guys!

And as far as going ported goes I think I am willing to sacrifice the SPL for some added quality. That is really the main goal, my personal near field listening. Partying like a rockstar is secondary ;) Probably the largest venue I would subject them to would be my own room, or one of the floor lounges.

Plus before I use it for many parties I do plan to add a sub so it won't matter that they are sealed. For subs I plan to make a few small 12" subs that will fit into small corners and won't be in the way.

If I went to MIT this would by no means be my dorm floors primary party system, I would see to that. They really stress finding groups to do projects with and getting funding is not that hard, so my first order of business would be to construct my dorm a proper horn loaded party system with SS15's or TH18's on the low end that could hit insane SPL figures without being destroyed.
 
Late edit:

P.S. I just finished the 4 channel amp I intend to use for this. It actually sounds pretty good. I just need to sort out some kind of cheap thump protection for it. When I did my hot swap test with the external sound card (my gainclone has no issue with this) it produced a very sizable DC offset that sucked my FE108E Sigma cones in (scary!!! they're ok though) so I need to not have that happen again. Weirdly when I am using the 3.5mm jack on the computer it is no problem whatsoever.
 
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