No problem ,your welcome.
Yes, these can do metal and hardrock very well. For metal and rock you need big woofers with a good low/mid bass thump. A 12 or 15" woofer playing from 50Hz will sound much beter then a 6,5" driver playing from 40Hz for this kind of music. (I think you need big woofers for any kind of music to be honoust) Most small loudspeaker fail with hardrock and metal because of this.
For dipole mids you don't need that much space. You can allways experiment with some damping material behind the driver.
Anyways, have fun building your project. I think you allready had a system in mind.
Yes, these can do metal and hardrock very well. For metal and rock you need big woofers with a good low/mid bass thump. A 12 or 15" woofer playing from 50Hz will sound much beter then a 6,5" driver playing from 40Hz for this kind of music. (I think you need big woofers for any kind of music to be honoust) Most small loudspeaker fail with hardrock and metal because of this.
For dipole mids you don't need that much space. You can allways experiment with some damping material behind the driver.
Anyways, have fun building your project. I think you allready had a system in mind.
I recently used the Faital 8FE200, and I believe you have made a good choice in the 6FE200 drivers.
If you need more output though, these are also options:
PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY-4 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 4 Ohm
PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 8 Ohm
PRV Audio 5MR450-NDY-4 5" Midrange Neodymium Woofer 4 Ohm
PRV Audio 5MR450-NDY 5" Midrange Neodymium Woofer 8 Ohm
Yes- I know they are more expensive, but they do have shorting rings, and a very strong motor, coupled to a really low mass cone. When going to 3.5k for the xover, a lot of times the 5" size is what's required to get there in terms of beaming and off-axis response.
Remember that using 2x 8 ohm drivers in parallel nets a +6dB net sensitivity. Using 2x of your 6FE200 per cabinet could really bump up your sensitivity as well.
Later,
Wolf
If you need more output though, these are also options:
PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY-4 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 4 Ohm
PRV Audio 6MR500-NDY 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 8 Ohm
PRV Audio 5MR450-NDY-4 5" Midrange Neodymium Woofer 4 Ohm
PRV Audio 5MR450-NDY 5" Midrange Neodymium Woofer 8 Ohm
Yes- I know they are more expensive, but they do have shorting rings, and a very strong motor, coupled to a really low mass cone. When going to 3.5k for the xover, a lot of times the 5" size is what's required to get there in terms of beaming and off-axis response.
Remember that using 2x 8 ohm drivers in parallel nets a +6dB net sensitivity. Using 2x of your 6FE200 per cabinet could really bump up your sensitivity as well.
Later,
Wolf
Hi Wolf. Thanks for the advice. After reading your thoughts, I like the idea of changing to the 5" woofer. I only need or want around 94 or 95 db efficiency. So only one of them should be fine.
I would prefer two 8" drivers per cabinet for looks. But I am wanting to really feel the low bass to 40hz. So I figured a 12" would be better for this. What do you say ?
This is an ESS update. I had a week of rain here. So I went ahead and repaired the passive radiators from the LS4s, with new surrounds, and installed them. That is until I can buy some drivers to mate with the Heil. And it simply RUINED the bass imo. I had rather defined and well extended bass with the cabinet sealed. Adding the passive radiator made everything go tubby and thick sounding. I played a few songs with low frequency material in it, to see what benefits the PR was adding down low. I could not hear any lower extension, compared to the cabinet when sealed, with an extra 1.5 lbs of polyfill added.
So if you have never tried it, I recommend removing your PRs in your Tempest speakers. Then add some loose poly, and make a blank off plate. Listen to it that way. I doubt you'll go back
So if you have never tried it, I recommend removing your PRs in your Tempest speakers. Then add some loose poly, and make a blank off plate. Listen to it that way. I doubt you'll go back
Wouldn't it be better if the passive radiator is on the back wall on the enclosure, to be in phase with the transducer?
I may try a transmission line to test this...
Good luck.
M.
I can guess why it's different, but may be incorrect. The air in a BR port doesn't weigh anything. The PR does. And I think that is what makes the difference.
But I am new at this .... so I could be in left field.
PRs are finicky as to tuning.
Your refoam has probably a different compliance vis-a-vis the original.
Happens all the time, as it's very hard to match current materials to nonexistant ones(where do we get unaged samples of the original foam?).
So you must adjust the weight of the PR. I'm actually inclined to seal it unless I really miss the original behavior. Or port it, for ease in tuning.
A well done PR behaves identically to a same-tuned port, just fewer choices.
Your refoam has probably a different compliance vis-a-vis the original.
Happens all the time, as it's very hard to match current materials to nonexistant ones(where do we get unaged samples of the original foam?).
So you must adjust the weight of the PR. I'm actually inclined to seal it unless I really miss the original behavior. Or port it, for ease in tuning.
A well done PR behaves identically to a same-tuned port, just fewer choices.
The re-foam kit I used was a factory replacement. But it could still have changed over the years. The original PR was a piece of 1/2" styrofoam, with a 1/4" lightweight foam on it. The foam had all worked off. So I bought more identical foam, which is ALMOST weightless. And tried one to 4 layers attached, using temporary double sided tape. No amount made any audible difference in reducing the tubbiness. I should say here : The tubbiness wasn't just terrible. But when compared to sealed, it was for sure.
Sealed made it a NEW beast. I would much rather EQ the last 5hz extension in. The smaller Tempest models may NEED the PR for good bass. But the 2.6 cu ft LS-4 enclosure does not really need the PR, in my opinion. With the polyfill, it thinks it's 3 cu ft. And that is quite reasonable for most 10" woofers to play low already. This is all just IMO
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That does make the audible difference but they both work on the same principle that the air in the box connects driver with PR and BR causing them to resonate in sympathy at their respective resonant frequencies.
In the case of BR the resonating column of air weighs tenths of grams while the PR weighs tens of grams.
Inertia of that weight causes a PR to start moving later and in absence of signal stop later than the air in a BR.
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