energy veritas 2.2i crossover project

I'm attaching a photo of the mid/tweet crossover which I took the other night. My first step is to replace the resistors as they're cheap. If the problem persists I'll look at changing the caps next.

was thinking, since the scratchy high problem happens under certain condidtions, I wonder if your coils (inductors) are interacting with each other-- after looking at the i crossover & yours, the coils are rearanged & reorientated from each other
 
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I have a pair of Veritas 2.3's and Id love to upgrade the xo. The midrange is a little recessed as well as the bass.

cool, it will take a little planning-- check out these parts, and this is just for the midrange driver!
 

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cool, it will take a little planning-- check out these parts, and this is just for the midrange driver!

Mmmm...crossover porn:)

Looks like the schematics for the 2.4 and 2.4i are indeed the same, but you're right about the board layout changing. Perhaps there is a problem with component placement on the originals.

As far as I know the mid/tweet unit is identical for both the original and "i" units, and I've read that back when Energy still sold parts for these speakers they sold "i" woofers to owner's of non "i" speakers as replacements.
 
I'm attaching a photo of the mid/tweet crossover which I took the other night. My first step is to replace the resistors as they're cheap. If the problem persists I'll look at changing the caps next.

it's funny, your crossover looks like an antique compared to their new i version--

but still-- a little too complicated for a crossover!?! -- it's just a mid/tweet!! had to compensate for toooo many mechanical probs I guess
 

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it's funny, your crossover looks like an antique compared to their new i version--

but still-- a little too complicated for a crossover!?! -- it's just a mid/tweet!! had to compensate for toooo many mechanical probs I guess

They're exactly the same circuits per the schematic, and from what can see from the photos the save level of parts quality. The coils seem to be aligned in the same fashion as well. I believe the only difference in board layout is because the non "i" version has binding posts for high and low actually connect direct through the cabinet and into the board. By connecting all four binding posts they had to put leads for LF that come off the HF board (straight pass through, no filtering on the LF leads).

According to the brochures for the Veritas series these crossovers are a 24db Linkwitz-Riley so they aren't that complex for what is being accomplished (HP on tweeter, HP + LP on mid). In contrast my Thiel CS2.3 speakers are a two way 6db crossover yet they have they have about 20 components.
 
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cool, it will take a little planning-- check out these parts, and this is just for the midrange driver!


Wow thats a whole lot better than what was in there. I listened to my speakers in the shop and loved them. I was a little green didnt realize that I was listening to the speakers with 12 thousand dollars worth of cd player and Intergrated amp.

How much do you think they spent on your xo. How much did you spend?
 
Wow thats a whole lot better than what was in there. I listened to my speakers in the shop and loved them. I was a little green didnt realize that I was listening to the speakers with 12 thousand dollars worth of cd player and Intergrated amp.

How much do you think they spent on your xo. How much did you spend?

parts were prob just $30 bucks, but of course far more for the R&D-- the new parts are just shy of $1000, might be more than that, if I decide to do all the coils, (just doing strictly the series signal coils, not the coils parallel with the speaker driver)
 
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Veritas 2.4 Tweeter Static Mystery Solved

So I pulled the HF crossover board out of my Vertitas 2.4 today with the intention of testing the components. While preparing to un-solder the various components I noticed there was large very intentional cut in one of the board traces. Had the trace not been cut the first 2.7 ohm resistor in the tweeter circuit would be bypassed, so clearly the cut was put there by the manufacturer to make up for a board design error. Looking at the cut closely I could see that it wasn't really thorough. I figured given the position in the circuit that micro-arching across the cut could cause the static I was hearing. :scratch2:

I took a sharp knife and cut the original groove deeper and wider, and then placed a second cut a few mm over to be really sure (pic attached)

After putting the board back in the speaker I listened over and over to a particular music passage where the static was unmistakable before, and there's no more static :happy1:
 

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So I pulled the HF crossover board out of my Vertitas 2.4 today with the intention of testing the components. While preparing to un-solder the various components I noticed there was large very intentional cut in one of the board traces. Had the trace not been cut the first 2.7 ohm resistor in the tweeter circuit would be bypassed, so clearly the cut was put there by the manufacturer to make up for a board design error. Looking at the cut closely I could see that it wasn't really thorough. I figured given the position in the circuit that micro-arching across the cut could cause the static I was hearing. :scratch2:

I took a sharp knife and cut the original groove deeper and wider, and then placed a second cut a few mm over to be really sure (pic attached)

After putting the board back in the speaker I listened over and over to a particular music passage where the static was unmistakable before, and there's no more static :happy1:


Thats frustrating. After spending so much cash you discover that...Wow